Soundddd Systemmm!
#16
Just got a JL Audio 12w7-D3 with super pro bass box from cl for 300. Under powered by a JL Audio 250/1. I have polk dxi650 in front doors. Kicker ks650 in the hatch. And a Memphis PR-4.5 amp for the highs. Have Sony head unit. Purchased all by me with some help from my dad. Plus 2 power caustic tweeters in the from pillars. Btw. The JL w7 slams on only the 250/1
#17
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
i was sorta in the same boat as you, aftermarket sound system but i sounded like crap since it was old.
i got together 130$ and went to walmart and picked up these:
4 pioneer 5 1/2 speakers=80$
10'' 1000w pioneer sub=70$
infinity package tweeters- free
hooked them all up and rewired my headunit and they sound 100x better. i still dont have an amp for my sub so it doesnt hit very hard but still sounds nice.
you shouldnt have to have a seperate amp for speakers, my aftermarket headunit puts out 130w and thats plenty of power for my speakers so i would just buy a new headunit along with the speakers and it will make a big difference.
i got together 130$ and went to walmart and picked up these:
4 pioneer 5 1/2 speakers=80$
10'' 1000w pioneer sub=70$
infinity package tweeters- free
hooked them all up and rewired my headunit and they sound 100x better. i still dont have an amp for my sub so it doesnt hit very hard but still sounds nice.
you shouldnt have to have a seperate amp for speakers, my aftermarket headunit puts out 130w and thats plenty of power for my speakers so i would just buy a new headunit along with the speakers and it will make a big difference.
Throw that sub in a sealed box.
Get an amp for it 1,000 watt should do.
Your 130watt is split by 4 so your getting 32.5 watts peak, so your RMS is only 16.25 watts per speaker. You will blow your output if you continue to use the subwoofer on it with no amp for the sub.
Last edited by BigBear; 09-16-2011 at 01:07 AM.
#18
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Year: 1996
Engine: 4.0L HO
For a very good shallow mount, and inexpensive sub get a Rockford Fosgate Prime R1. $90 for one and it sounds awesome and hits hard in a sealed box (what its designed for)
#19
Senior Member
Originally Posted by Colton_Sport
Id like to see the tweeters in the pillars. I might think about doing that myself. Could you take a few camera shots of them? Thanks greatly appreciated.
#20
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm going to echo something Ive said before:
There's a difference between claiming 1000 watt power handling, and actually handling it. Just like there is a difference between claiming to produce 1000 watts and actually doing it. if an 80 dollar sub says it is 1000watt, there's a good chance it's not.
Even the cheapest subwoofer amps out there would be more than sufficient to push that sub.
This amp would be perfect for that sub and with coupon code "afl4coupon" for another 4% off it is only $84.48 shipped. Would push one or two of those subs to their full potential no problem.
I am interested in how the sub was wired to the head unit as well. It's a single coil sub, and you've got 4 speakers hooked up already. Head units typically only have 4 channels, so did you bridge it on the rear channels along with the other speakers in a "tri-way" configuration, or did you just parallel or series it off of one channel? Either way it's not really a good way to run it and there is a potential for damage.
#21
Senior Member
Originally Posted by daverulz
That subwoofer is rated at 1000 watts peak, which is a complete joke. It's a 200 watt RMS subwoofer. It does not need anywhere near a 1000 watt amp.
I'm going to echo something Ive said before:
There's a difference between claiming 1000 watt power handling, and actually handling it. Just like there is a difference between claiming to produce 1000 watts and actually doing it. if an 80 dollar sub says it is 1000watt, there's a good chance it's not.
Even the cheapest subwoofer amps out there would be more than sufficient to push that sub.
This amp would be perfect for that sub and with coupon code "afl4coupon" for another 4% off it is only $84.48 shipped. Would push one or two of those subs to their full potential no problem.
I am interested in how the sub was wired to the head unit as well. It's a single coil sub, and you've got 4 speakers hooked up already. Head units typically only have 4 channels, so did you bridge it on the rear channels along with the other speakers in a "tri-way" configuration, or did you just parallel or series it off of one channel? Either way it's not really a good way to run it and there is a potential for damage.
#22
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
That subwoofer is rated at 1000 watts peak, which is a complete joke. It's a 200 watt RMS subwoofer. It does not need anywhere near a 1000 watt amp.
I'm going to echo something Ive said before:
There's a difference between claiming 1000 watt power handling, and actually handling it. Just like there is a difference between claiming to produce 1000 watts and actually doing it. if an 80 dollar sub says it is 1000watt, there's a good chance it's not.
Even the cheapest subwoofer amps out there would be more than sufficient to push that sub.
This amp would be perfect for that sub and with coupon code "afl4coupon" for another 4% off it is only $84.48 shipped. Would push one or two of those subs to their full potential no problem.
I am interested in how the sub was wired to the head unit as well. It's a single coil sub, and you've got 4 speakers hooked up already. Head units typically only have 4 channels, so did you bridge it on the rear channels along with the other speakers in a "tri-way" configuration, or did you just parallel or series it off of one channel? Either way it's not really a good way to run it and there is a potential for damage.
I'm going to echo something Ive said before:
There's a difference between claiming 1000 watt power handling, and actually handling it. Just like there is a difference between claiming to produce 1000 watts and actually doing it. if an 80 dollar sub says it is 1000watt, there's a good chance it's not.
Even the cheapest subwoofer amps out there would be more than sufficient to push that sub.
This amp would be perfect for that sub and with coupon code "afl4coupon" for another 4% off it is only $84.48 shipped. Would push one or two of those subs to their full potential no problem.
I am interested in how the sub was wired to the head unit as well. It's a single coil sub, and you've got 4 speakers hooked up already. Head units typically only have 4 channels, so did you bridge it on the rear channels along with the other speakers in a "tri-way" configuration, or did you just parallel or series it off of one channel? Either way it's not really a good way to run it and there is a potential for damage.
and the only reason why i got the sub is because the po of my jeep built a box and i had money so just bought a cheap one to fill the hole up.
and it was wired(not anymore, just gonna buy an amp and do it right) directly to my jenson vm9312 headunit with red speaker wire to the sub output. it sounded pretty decent in the sealed box with no amp going to it, just nice bass. not trying to win sound awards, just wanted some bass since i have 2 tweeters running and 4 cheap speakers that put out no bass at all.
once i get some more cash, im gonna do it all right and buy an amp and wiring pack and hook it all to my headunit, which i am actually trying to sell.... not a fan of the touch screen, and cd player doesnt work, and i have to buy a 60$ cord just to hook my damn ipod up to it.
Last edited by IZAREBL; 09-16-2011 at 11:02 AM.
#23
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
wat.......
Dude.....
that makes no sense at all.
The JL 250/1 is a fully regulated amp and puts out 250 watts regardless of the impedance (I believe its from 1.5-4 ohm)
Your W7 is getting 250 watts.
Also the W7 legitimately handles like 750-1000 watts, so I would be surprised if it couldn't handle what a 250/1 can put out.
I'm still confused about how you have your subwoofer hooked up. From what I can gather, you've hooked it up to the RCA low level output....
Last edited by daverulz; 09-16-2011 at 01:21 PM.
#24
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
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actually just ran one wire to a bolt, and the other wire to this random grey wire that wasnt hooked up to anything and sound was coming out. left it on for like 2 days and then i cranked my jeep up and the stereo wasnt playing at all, unhooked it and it started playing again. so scratched it, and have had it unhooked since.
#25
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
That subwoofer is rated at 1000 watts peak, which is a complete joke. It's a 200 watt RMS subwoofer. It does not need anywhere near a 1000 watt amp.
I'm going to echo something Ive said before:
There's a difference between claiming 1000 watt power handling, and actually handling it. Just like there is a difference between claiming to produce 1000 watts and actually doing it. if an 80 dollar sub says it is 1000watt, there's a good chance it's not.
Even the cheapest subwoofer amps out there would be more than sufficient to push that sub.
This amp would be perfect for that sub and with coupon code "afl4coupon" for another 4% off it is only $84.48 shipped. Would push one or two of those subs to their full potential no problem.
I am interested in how the sub was wired to the head unit as well. It's a single coil sub, and you've got 4 speakers hooked up already. Head units typically only have 4 channels, so did you bridge it on the rear channels along with the other speakers in a "tri-way" configuration, or did you just parallel or series it off of one channel? Either way it's not really a good way to run it and there is a potential for damage.
I'm going to echo something Ive said before:
There's a difference between claiming 1000 watt power handling, and actually handling it. Just like there is a difference between claiming to produce 1000 watts and actually doing it. if an 80 dollar sub says it is 1000watt, there's a good chance it's not.
Even the cheapest subwoofer amps out there would be more than sufficient to push that sub.
This amp would be perfect for that sub and with coupon code "afl4coupon" for another 4% off it is only $84.48 shipped. Would push one or two of those subs to their full potential no problem.
I am interested in how the sub was wired to the head unit as well. It's a single coil sub, and you've got 4 speakers hooked up already. Head units typically only have 4 channels, so did you bridge it on the rear channels along with the other speakers in a "tri-way" configuration, or did you just parallel or series it off of one channel? Either way it's not really a good way to run it and there is a potential for damage.
You should not be interested in the way he hooked it up to the deck, which WILL burn outputs.
JL W7 is a solid subwoofer and can handle much more power.
Even more so if it is in a sealed box, subwoofers in a band pass, slotted, or ported will need less power to push them since they have nothing stopping them from moving. It is easier to burn a subwoofer in a ported box than a sealed. If you do blow a sub in a sealed box you had too much power going to it or you didn't adjust the system right.
#27
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Year: 1989 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L 6 Renix
Speaker Guard
I see a lot of woofers (showin my age eh?) without any covers. My XJ carries a bunch of usefull junk in the back. Other stuff gettin tossed in and out. What's protecting those magnifcent subs? I went with a marine application sub so I don't worry about summer mud and winter snow. It has a relatively sturdy cover. Paid for the extended warranty 3yrs at future shop at boxing day sale, all perils, full replacement, no hassle, no addiitonal charges. 2 amps, sub, capacitor, wire harness, $80 warranty charge covers all. Have replaced one amp, 1 was pooched right out of the box. No problems since. Lots of loads in and out, easy to clean off, some rough riddin, no damage to the "woofer" lololol. So protect that sub!
#29
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
I forgot to check my account, but im here now.
The speakers i have now are called Accusound by Jensen and the headunit seems like its just the factory one. Im sure these speakers could have been good back in the day, but now looking closer to them the cones seem to be ripping and there's foam all inside the cage.
And for the sub enclosure, i can't place them on one of the sides in the back since my uncle bought storage bins and placed those there when he had it, and so far i enjoy keeping tools and random stuff inside. Im thinking of a shallow sub since it wouldn't require as big of a box, and thats why i want the sony xplod sub since it comes with a premade box that isn't that large and it still puts out 300 rms which seems like it would be just the right amount of bump that im looking for.
The speakers i have now are called Accusound by Jensen and the headunit seems like its just the factory one. Im sure these speakers could have been good back in the day, but now looking closer to them the cones seem to be ripping and there's foam all inside the cage.
And for the sub enclosure, i can't place them on one of the sides in the back since my uncle bought storage bins and placed those there when he had it, and so far i enjoy keeping tools and random stuff inside. Im thinking of a shallow sub since it wouldn't require as big of a box, and thats why i want the sony xplod sub since it comes with a premade box that isn't that large and it still puts out 300 rms which seems like it would be just the right amount of bump that im looking for.
#30
i was just playin my subs the other day and as soon as i turned it up past 19, and my cd player turned off, im running 2 10" mtx thunder, not sure of the omes or wattage, with a 500 watt jensen amp and a sony explode cd player, not sure whats goin on.