Starting to have lift envy
#1
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 400
Likes: 1
From: East Freetown MA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Starting to have lift envy
Im starting to think about the next step. Want to go 5 to 51/2 inches. short arm with drop brackets just to save some $. Heres the question. Do I install a BB on top of my 3inch. Or go for a complete lift. I know im gonna have to source alot of things like control arms, transfer case drop, pitman arm, ect...
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 680
Likes: 2
From: Phoenix AZ
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6ho
with 5"-5.5" of lift on a 2000, i doubt you'll get away with a t-case drop... I would advise you budget for an SYE and driveshaft.
Personally, I would go with new springs/shocks as oppossed to boosting.
Good luck.
Personally, I would go with new springs/shocks as oppossed to boosting.
Good luck.
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 680
Likes: 2
From: Phoenix AZ
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6ho
mmm... just looked at your pictures.
You don't seem to have any recovery points, armor or even a full size spare.
Not to be a jerk, but in my opinion, you have a lot of things to do before you need to worry about more lift.
You don't seem to have any recovery points, armor or even a full size spare.
Not to be a jerk, but in my opinion, you have a lot of things to do before you need to worry about more lift.
#4
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 400
Likes: 1
From: East Freetown MA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I think your right. Though it is not a DD, I wheel a few times a month. I think ill be dropping shafts without the sye. I do think its a better route to go replacing springs instead of a BB, just wondering if anyone has any experience good or bad with adding a BB on top of existing lifts.
#5
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 400
Likes: 1
From: East Freetown MA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#7
"CF Moderator"
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,045
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From: N.J. Shore Area
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6 HO
X2 on what Mike H said, don't be too cheap with the parts or you may be sorry later down the road. Do it right the first time and be done with it...Tj
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#8
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 400
Likes: 1
From: East Freetown MA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 855
Likes: 1
From: Southern California
Year: 1989 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6 Renix
Yeah, lifting get expensive (when done right) Some people go the cheap route and end up paying for it down the road. A lot has to be done when you go to 5-5.5" lift.
#10
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 400
Likes: 1
From: East Freetown MA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I was thinking of staying were I am and doing some axle upgrades an arb locker setup and some trimming for 32's. As well as armor among other things. But, last week I got high centered on a fairly tame obstacle. Now ive got lifts on my mind. Maybe I just got jeepitus.
#11
I would go with 5 inch springs up front for flex. Then go 2 inch shackles in the rear to get a good angle on your rear axle. Of course new shocks and what has been saed. Here are some junk yard mods that might help you if you dont mind your stuff not being brand new.
Suspension & Lift:
1. ZJ V8 Upcountry Coils = 1-1.5" lift
2. F-150/Bronco Coils ('79-ish) = 4-4.5" lift Very stiff! (most common, different heights are listed from almost everybody, this is just the most common)
3. S10 leaf packs (cut eyes off S10 main and bolt pack under XJ main) = 3-4" lift
4. JK shocks = slight mod to fit 2-4" lift
5. MJ Shackles = 1/2" lift
6. Camaro Spring Isolators = 1.5" lift
Brakes:
1. WJ brake booster
2. WJ Master Cylinder
3. YJ Brake Lines = 3-4" longer
4. Dodge Ram Van Brake Lines = 10-12" longer (for big lifts)
5. WJ Rotors/Calipers = bigger brakes and more stopping power (will fit 15" rims)
6. Models same as 96 dodge Dakota rear brake hose = 6 inches longer than stock
Axles:
1. Ford 8.8 inch ('97+) = need spring & shock mounts (4.10, LSD, Disc Brakes)
2. XJ I-4 & V6 = 4.10 gears (some have 4.56) may have vacuum discos
3. 97+ XJ C8.25 = bolt in and upgrades to 29 spline (strength comparable to D44)
4. Liberty 8.25 bolts right in and has rear disk brakes
Front End & Steering:
1. ZJ V8 Tierods = beefier & bolt in
2. WJ Knuckles/Tierods/Draglinks = beefier and crossover steering
3. Durango Steering Box = beefier
4. 350 or 351 Power Steering Pump = helps with oversize tires (requires welding)
5. WJ LCA's = more tire clearance (some grinding required)
6. ZJ pitman arm = 1 inch drop over stock
7. WJ rear LCA's = replace XJ front LCA's, 2" longer to accomodate a lift, some grinding
required
8. JK rear upper control arms replace XJ front lowers, good for 4-4.5 inches of lift
Engine Performance:
1. Newer XJ intakes (may require some modification)
2. Mustang 5.0 Injectors = bolt in (have 4 holes instead of 1, more fuel, better spray)
3. ZJ V8 alternator = more power to run accessories (some grinding required)
4. Taurus Dual Electric Fans ('96-98) = replaces mechanical fan, better cooling
5. Z34 lumina hood vents
Other:
1. '94+ V6 Dakota AX-15 = bolt in (but must use XJ bellhousing)
2. Lebaron or laser hood vents = help keep ur 4.0 cool
4. MJ Bucket seats = tilt forward, bolt in to at least older XJ's
5. ZJ gas tank skid = can be modified to fit 97+
6. ZJ and WJ stock tranny coolers with stacked plates (even an upgrade for us with the stock fin style)
7. GM power antennas replace your broken XJ's with little modification
8. 5spd crossmembers give 3/4 inch tcase drop on autos with no loss in ground clearance
9. You can convert the closed system to open without replacing your radiator by using the fill cap from a 4.7 durango or dakota, cutting it into your upper hose, and replace your bottle with an Mj overflow tank or any that fit. Then cap off or eliminate the T'ed lines in the heater core.
10. XJ '97+ doors onto older cherokees = one piece windows and better mirrors
11. MJ rear bump stops, longer than stock (I believe just under double) and are much cheaper than new ones.
Suspension & Lift:
1. ZJ V8 Upcountry Coils = 1-1.5" lift
2. F-150/Bronco Coils ('79-ish) = 4-4.5" lift Very stiff! (most common, different heights are listed from almost everybody, this is just the most common)
3. S10 leaf packs (cut eyes off S10 main and bolt pack under XJ main) = 3-4" lift
4. JK shocks = slight mod to fit 2-4" lift
5. MJ Shackles = 1/2" lift
6. Camaro Spring Isolators = 1.5" lift
Brakes:
1. WJ brake booster
2. WJ Master Cylinder
3. YJ Brake Lines = 3-4" longer
4. Dodge Ram Van Brake Lines = 10-12" longer (for big lifts)
5. WJ Rotors/Calipers = bigger brakes and more stopping power (will fit 15" rims)
6. Models same as 96 dodge Dakota rear brake hose = 6 inches longer than stock
Axles:
1. Ford 8.8 inch ('97+) = need spring & shock mounts (4.10, LSD, Disc Brakes)
2. XJ I-4 & V6 = 4.10 gears (some have 4.56) may have vacuum discos
3. 97+ XJ C8.25 = bolt in and upgrades to 29 spline (strength comparable to D44)
4. Liberty 8.25 bolts right in and has rear disk brakes
Front End & Steering:
1. ZJ V8 Tierods = beefier & bolt in
2. WJ Knuckles/Tierods/Draglinks = beefier and crossover steering
3. Durango Steering Box = beefier
4. 350 or 351 Power Steering Pump = helps with oversize tires (requires welding)
5. WJ LCA's = more tire clearance (some grinding required)
6. ZJ pitman arm = 1 inch drop over stock
7. WJ rear LCA's = replace XJ front LCA's, 2" longer to accomodate a lift, some grinding
required
8. JK rear upper control arms replace XJ front lowers, good for 4-4.5 inches of lift
Engine Performance:
1. Newer XJ intakes (may require some modification)
2. Mustang 5.0 Injectors = bolt in (have 4 holes instead of 1, more fuel, better spray)
3. ZJ V8 alternator = more power to run accessories (some grinding required)
4. Taurus Dual Electric Fans ('96-98) = replaces mechanical fan, better cooling
5. Z34 lumina hood vents
Other:
1. '94+ V6 Dakota AX-15 = bolt in (but must use XJ bellhousing)
2. Lebaron or laser hood vents = help keep ur 4.0 cool
4. MJ Bucket seats = tilt forward, bolt in to at least older XJ's
5. ZJ gas tank skid = can be modified to fit 97+
6. ZJ and WJ stock tranny coolers with stacked plates (even an upgrade for us with the stock fin style)
7. GM power antennas replace your broken XJ's with little modification
8. 5spd crossmembers give 3/4 inch tcase drop on autos with no loss in ground clearance
9. You can convert the closed system to open without replacing your radiator by using the fill cap from a 4.7 durango or dakota, cutting it into your upper hose, and replace your bottle with an Mj overflow tank or any that fit. Then cap off or eliminate the T'ed lines in the heater core.
10. XJ '97+ doors onto older cherokees = one piece windows and better mirrors
11. MJ rear bump stops, longer than stock (I believe just under double) and are much cheaper than new ones.
#14
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 680
Likes: 2
From: Phoenix AZ
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6ho
#15
Here's my $.02, if you were to get a bigger lift just get a full new kit with 5in springs all around. I know of people doing what your thinking doing a budget boost and regretting it...so just go with a new kit. But in all honesty...3 in is still pretty darn good for clearance. I would Armor up with sliders, diff covers, t-case skid, gas skid, maybe even bumpers. Then add in lockers front and rear and some good tires and you'll be good for just about anything...honestly, out here in the rocks thats all it is, armor and traction. And above all else get some recovery points there are some super cheap way to get recovery points..i run hooks up front and a receiver shackle in the rear a grand total of i think $80 and its saved my butt so many times...