SubWoofer from home theater system.
06-19-2012, 05:31 PM
#16
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 V6
I'm running a 500 Watt amp with power inverted wired into the amps power source and with two fuses from battery to the amp. And 10 non powered speakers. The sub is a 6.5 and is powered. Also the inverter will power off if it gets to hot or shorts out. Look on.my build tread for pictures. It works. Needs cleaned up though
06-19-2012, 08:30 PM
#19
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: LI, NY
Posts: 3,671
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
10 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, bolt ons for days...
Sure. In the jeep its a Kenwood excelon deck with Polk 6.5s all around, a Rockford p3 dvc10" in a sealed box I built being pushed by a 360w rms infinity amp. At home my main rig is a Harmon/kardon 730 twin powered pushing two ESS model 10s.
06-19-2012, 09:15 PM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Arlington, Texas
Posts: 864
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yes, crap it is.
Look...
Iunderstand that you may have your home theater sub working by using an AC inverter, but that is a HUGELY unorthodox and inefficient (and possibly dangerous) way to do things.
You are taking 12V DC, running it through an inverter to get 110V AC (most likely with a modified, rather than pure, sine wave output), then putting that into the subwoofer's built-in amp, which in turn converts it back to DC. Every time you convert the power, you lose efficiency in the conversion, as well as introducing noise into the power circuit, which may find its way through to your music.
If you want to use the sub, do this:
Go to Wally World and pick up a cheap Dual 300 watt amp for $40. Wire that amp properly into the car and your stereo. Drill a hole in the sub's enclosure, or remove the stock amp so that you can get to the actual +/- leads coming from the speaker, and wire these up to the outputs of the amp.
Now, as someone correctly pointed out earlier, you will only get about 150 watts max out of that 300 watt amp because you are running an 8 ohm sub, rather than a 4 ohm sub that most car audio amps are designed to power. Yet, this won't really matter, because the speaker's movement will be more sensitive to power input, so the net sound output will be close to what you'd normally get with a 4 ohm sub. Again, not ideal, but workable.
I would encourage you to learn some basics on electricity, especially the differences between household and automotive systems. Also, I'd recommend spending some time on www.the12volt.com and on Crutchfield, as both sites have some excellent tutorials, graphs, charts, and other reference materials.
As far as Bose... If you like them, that's great. And they are definitely not bad speakers at all, and rightfully make many people very happy. But for the money there a plenty of equal or better options. I have the Athena Technologies Micra 6 system on my home theater, and they are phenomenal, especially given their size. Much broader sound reproduction and better sensitivity and nuances over the Bose and Polks I tried, yet half the price of the Polks and 1/3 the price of the Bose.
http://www.hometheater.com/content/a...speaker-system
Lastly, to whoever mentioned Altecs...
They rock! I love Altecs and have never had a set that didn't just blow me away. I work in IT and have 4 computers between home and office. Every one of them has a set of Altecs hooked up to it. My main home PC has Altecs with a 6.5" sub in a larger enclosure, and it is amazingly clear and tight, yet will shake the pictures off the walls and play loud enough to be easily heard across the street.
http://www.alteclansing.com/computer...1/invt/mx5021/
Look...
Iunderstand that you may have your home theater sub working by using an AC inverter, but that is a HUGELY unorthodox and inefficient (and possibly dangerous) way to do things.
You are taking 12V DC, running it through an inverter to get 110V AC (most likely with a modified, rather than pure, sine wave output), then putting that into the subwoofer's built-in amp, which in turn converts it back to DC. Every time you convert the power, you lose efficiency in the conversion, as well as introducing noise into the power circuit, which may find its way through to your music.
If you want to use the sub, do this:
Go to Wally World and pick up a cheap Dual 300 watt amp for $40. Wire that amp properly into the car and your stereo. Drill a hole in the sub's enclosure, or remove the stock amp so that you can get to the actual +/- leads coming from the speaker, and wire these up to the outputs of the amp.
Now, as someone correctly pointed out earlier, you will only get about 150 watts max out of that 300 watt amp because you are running an 8 ohm sub, rather than a 4 ohm sub that most car audio amps are designed to power. Yet, this won't really matter, because the speaker's movement will be more sensitive to power input, so the net sound output will be close to what you'd normally get with a 4 ohm sub. Again, not ideal, but workable.
I would encourage you to learn some basics on electricity, especially the differences between household and automotive systems. Also, I'd recommend spending some time on www.the12volt.com and on Crutchfield, as both sites have some excellent tutorials, graphs, charts, and other reference materials.
As far as Bose... If you like them, that's great. And they are definitely not bad speakers at all, and rightfully make many people very happy. But for the money there a plenty of equal or better options. I have the Athena Technologies Micra 6 system on my home theater, and they are phenomenal, especially given their size. Much broader sound reproduction and better sensitivity and nuances over the Bose and Polks I tried, yet half the price of the Polks and 1/3 the price of the Bose.
http://www.hometheater.com/content/a...speaker-system
Lastly, to whoever mentioned Altecs...
They rock! I love Altecs and have never had a set that didn't just blow me away. I work in IT and have 4 computers between home and office. Every one of them has a set of Altecs hooked up to it. My main home PC has Altecs with a 6.5" sub in a larger enclosure, and it is amazingly clear and tight, yet will shake the pictures off the walls and play loud enough to be easily heard across the street.
http://www.alteclansing.com/computer...1/invt/mx5021/
Last edited by macgyver35; 06-19-2012 at 09:22 PM.
06-19-2012, 11:22 PM
#21
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 V6
Yes, crap it is.
Look...
Iunderstand that you may have your home theater sub working by using an AC inverter, but that is a HUGELY unorthodox and inefficient (and possibly dangerous) way to do things.
You are taking 12V DC, running it through an inverter to get 110V AC (most likely with a modified, rather than pure, sine wave output), then putting that into the subwoofer's built-in amp, which in turn converts it back to DC. Every time you convert the power, you lose efficiency in the conversion, as well as introducing noise into the power circuit, which may find its way through to your music.
If you want to use the sub, do this:
Go to Wally World and pick up a cheap Dual 300 watt amp for $40. Wire that amp properly into the car and your stereo. Drill a hole in the sub's enclosure, or remove the stock amp so that you can get to the actual +/- leads coming from the speaker, and wire these up to the outputs of the amp.
Now, as someone correctly pointed out earlier, you will only get about 150 watts max out of that 300 watt amp because you are running an 8 ohm sub, rather than a 4 ohm sub that most car audio amps are designed to power. Yet, this won't really matter, because the speaker's movement will be more sensitive to power input, so the net sound output will be close to what you'd normally get with a 4 ohm sub. Again, not ideal, but workable.
I would encourage you to learn some basics on electricity, especially the differences between household and automotive systems. Also, I'd recommend spending some time on www.the12volt.com and on Crutchfield, as both sites have some excellent tutorials, graphs, charts, and other reference materials.
As far as Bose... If you like them, that's great. And they are definitely not bad speakers at all, and rightfully make many people very happy. But for the money there a plenty of equal or better options. I have the Athena Technologies Micra 6 system on my home theater, and they are phenomenal, especially given their size. Much broader sound reproduction and better sensitivity and nuances over the Bose and Polks I tried, yet half the price of the Polks and 1/3 the price of the Bose.
http://www.hometheater.com/content/a...speaker-system
Lastly, to whoever mentioned Altecs...
They rock! I love Altecs and have never had a set that didn't just blow me away. I work in IT and have 4 computers between home and office. Every one of them has a set of Altecs hooked up to it. My main home PC has Altecs with a 6.5" sub in a larger enclosure, and it is amazingly clear and tight, yet will shake the pictures off the walls and play loud enough to be easily heard across the street.
http://www.alteclansing.com/computer...1/invt/mx5021/
Look...
Iunderstand that you may have your home theater sub working by using an AC inverter, but that is a HUGELY unorthodox and inefficient (and possibly dangerous) way to do things.
You are taking 12V DC, running it through an inverter to get 110V AC (most likely with a modified, rather than pure, sine wave output), then putting that into the subwoofer's built-in amp, which in turn converts it back to DC. Every time you convert the power, you lose efficiency in the conversion, as well as introducing noise into the power circuit, which may find its way through to your music.
If you want to use the sub, do this:
Go to Wally World and pick up a cheap Dual 300 watt amp for $40. Wire that amp properly into the car and your stereo. Drill a hole in the sub's enclosure, or remove the stock amp so that you can get to the actual +/- leads coming from the speaker, and wire these up to the outputs of the amp.
Now, as someone correctly pointed out earlier, you will only get about 150 watts max out of that 300 watt amp because you are running an 8 ohm sub, rather than a 4 ohm sub that most car audio amps are designed to power. Yet, this won't really matter, because the speaker's movement will be more sensitive to power input, so the net sound output will be close to what you'd normally get with a 4 ohm sub. Again, not ideal, but workable.
I would encourage you to learn some basics on electricity, especially the differences between household and automotive systems. Also, I'd recommend spending some time on www.the12volt.com and on Crutchfield, as both sites have some excellent tutorials, graphs, charts, and other reference materials.
As far as Bose... If you like them, that's great. And they are definitely not bad speakers at all, and rightfully make many people very happy. But for the money there a plenty of equal or better options. I have the Athena Technologies Micra 6 system on my home theater, and they are phenomenal, especially given their size. Much broader sound reproduction and better sensitivity and nuances over the Bose and Polks I tried, yet half the price of the Polks and 1/3 the price of the Bose.
http://www.hometheater.com/content/a...speaker-system
Lastly, to whoever mentioned Altecs...
They rock! I love Altecs and have never had a set that didn't just blow me away. I work in IT and have 4 computers between home and office. Every one of them has a set of Altecs hooked up to it. My main home PC has Altecs with a 6.5" sub in a larger enclosure, and it is amazingly clear and tight, yet will shake the pictures off the walls and play loud enough to be easily heard across the street.
http://www.alteclansing.com/computer...1/invt/mx5021/
06-20-2012, 12:40 AM
#22
You my friend Have posted the Most Informational Post on this tread and i thank you for that. But i Haven't really Encountered any problems yet with the battery dying. I've even ran the jeep with the sub and inverter on for about 4 hours and started up fine. I don't know if that's a big deal or not. But I'm getting fully power out of the sub. It's actually in fact louder than the rest of my speakers. And the 300 watt sub at Walmart i bought and returned because it wasn't worth it. Not enough power was able to get to it from the +/- cable's. But i will take what you said And try it out
If you amped it, with a "matching" amp, it would have been plenty loud. What size wires did you run to your inverter?
06-20-2012, 05:02 AM
#23
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Oshkosh, WI.
Posts: 4,118
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
System: 4-speaker, 4-way system
Woofer: 12 inch (30 cm) carbon fiber blended cone type
Mid-Range: 4 inch (10 cm) cone type
Tweeter: 1-3/4 inch (4.5 cm) cone type
Super tweeter: High Polymer Molecular Film
Nominal Impedance: 8 ohms
Frequency Range: 30 to 25,000 Hz
Sensitivity: 92.5 dB/W (at 1m distance)
Maximum Input Power: 100 watts (“A” crossover) / 200 Watts (“B”,”C” crossovers)
Crossover Frequency: 300 Hz (Low-Mid), 4,000 Hz (Mid-High), 12,000 Hz (High-Superhigh)
Dimensions: 15-3/8(W) x 26-3/8(H) x 15-1/2(D) inches (390(W) x 670(H) x 393(D) millimeters)
Weight: 58 lb. 14 oz./26.7 kg
06-20-2012, 05:20 AM
#24
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Oshkosh, WI.
Posts: 4,118
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm running a 500 Watt amp with power inverted wired into the amps power source and with two fuses from battery to the amp. And 10 non powered speakers. The sub is a 6.5 and is powered. Also the inverter will power off if it gets to hot or shorts out. Look on.my build tread for pictures. It works. Needs cleaned up though
Last edited by 91 limited owner; 08-13-2012 at 08:38 AM.
06-20-2012, 06:56 AM
#25
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: se indiana
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Congrats. On making it work for you, I am impressed. I also would like to apologize for thread jacking. These where the pair of altecs I had in the back of a van, In the '70's And boy,would they rock that van. Attachment 125400
I've had Bose since the '80's, my brother has a set of my 301's and a set of the 601's in his barn. My nephew has my 901's in his dorm at college.
Car audio is another animal. Do what works for ya'. I'd rather my components all be compatible w/matching impedance and RMS ranges. Some guys hook crap up resulting in over taxing the head unit or amp and end up "pushing" distortion to the speakers or use speakers which are too week for the power being pushed.
Crutchfield has kept me on target with the tech. stuff. todays components are so efficient ya' don't have to spend your rent money to get good sound.
06-20-2012, 07:17 AM
#26
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Oshkosh, WI.
Posts: 4,118
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I had a set of Klipsch speakers about that size many years ago. Would take 'em to Haspin Acres and power everything with a generator.
I've had Bose since the '80's, my brother has a set of my 301's and a set of the 601's in his barn. My nephew has my 901's in his dorm at college.
Car audio is another animal. Do what works for ya'. I'd rather my components all be compatible w/matching impedance and RMS ranges. Some guys hook crap up resulting in over taxing the head unit or amp and end up "pushing" distortion to the speakers or use speakers which are too week for the power being pushed.
Crutchfield has kept me on target with the tech. stuff. todays components are so efficient ya' don't have to spend your rent money to get good sound.
I've had Bose since the '80's, my brother has a set of my 301's and a set of the 601's in his barn. My nephew has my 901's in his dorm at college.
Car audio is another animal. Do what works for ya'. I'd rather my components all be compatible w/matching impedance and RMS ranges. Some guys hook crap up resulting in over taxing the head unit or amp and end up "pushing" distortion to the speakers or use speakers which are too week for the power being pushed.
Crutchfield has kept me on target with the tech. stuff. todays components are so efficient ya' don't have to spend your rent money to get good sound.
06-20-2012, 07:41 AM
#27
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: LI, NY
Posts: 3,671
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
10 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, bolt ons for days...
First gen bose? Yea those were masterpieces. The acoustimass towers eh.. I guess they're not my cup of tea. As long as you aren't praising the **** they turn out nowadays. Btw those Altecs are gorgeous.
06-20-2012, 10:26 AM
#29
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Oshkosh, WI.
Posts: 4,118
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Last edited by 91 limited owner; 08-13-2012 at 08:38 AM.