I thinking about need a reliable 4Wd for the winter, while I store my BMW away. I hear 1996-2000 Jeeps are great trucks, and can get to 175k miles.... It would be nice to have a backup car while the BMW is in the shop. Is this the right idea? I have no plans of modding, lifting or even off-roading.

Besides size, any huge differences b/w Wranglers vs. Cherokees?
Is one more reliable than the other? Is one generally cheaper?

Any major warnings about Jeep ownership? Can they become money pit nightmares? Are Cherokee Sports DIY friendly? I am looking for a Cherokee "Sport" b/c I don''t need comfort frills, and there's stuff to break.

Is there a huge difference b/w I6 and 4 cyl. motors? I'm an adult driver, so I can drive lightly and get ok mileage. Is the I6 motor worth it? Is one more reliable than the other?

It seems like 1996 and 1999 are the most desirable years.
Should the 2000 Sport be avoided? Just b/c of the aluminum head?

These are 2 I've looked at locally:

1996 Cherokee Sport. 4.0L 6cyl engine. Automatic. Only 70k miles. Asking $4300 firm.
Adult owned, not beat on. Never off-roaded.
New radiator, water pump, fluids, many new hoses, brakes, tires, etc.
Inside is clean. Body is a 9. I see no rust or dents.

2000 Cherokee Sport. 4.0L 6 cyl engine. Automatic. Only 112k miles. Asking $3300. (Will take $3000)
Adult owned, not beat on. Never off-roaded.
New brakes, exhaust, tires. Inside is clean.
Body has light rust inside the doors and rockers

Reactions?
Anyone have some general links/FAQ so I can learn more about classic Jeeps?

 

Um after an I6 experience you might not want the beemer anymore?

 

The BMW is probably an I6 also. Cherokees are very DIY friendly! What kind of BMW do you have?

The "sport" mean's pretty much nothing
I have a '96, so I am partial to that body style. Stick with the I6 (Mine is at 260,000), the fours are pathetic. Rust is the devil.

 

Ok, so 2 big rules are to
1) Avoid a rusted Jeep,
2) Stick with I6 engines. (The gas mileage isn't THAT different anyway)

Is the 4 cyl is just too small to properly power a truck? If so, the same mindset exists in the BMW enthusiast world.
BMW 525 and 528 only have a 180hp motor that can't properly move a large sedan. People are advised to stick to the 530 with 225hp.
(The 540 280hp is a beast V8 that has a much higher cost of maintenance)

I have the I6 225hp 2001 530i.
BMW has a massive forum community, and it's been great to learn about cars again.

That's cool that Jeeps are DIY friendly. Are there loads of DIY's posted by users here? At the BMW forums, the user created DIYs are 10x better than Haynes/Chilton. Youtube videos are also common. I really like doing DIY. I invested in about $700 worth of tools, as well. It can sometimes suck while you're doing it, but each one makes you stronger and wiser about cars. I'd love to apply my basic DIY skills to a Jeep. I want something reliable that I can also do prev. maint. on.

My approach to buying cars is to focus on the owner/zip code as much as the car. The two above are decent finds. Not ghetto cars, but owned by middle aged guys who didn't beat on it, and spent money to keep them running right.

 

Don't get any 00-01 XJs. They're prone to having a cracked head. I got one. It's a ***** to go about fixing it. Go with the 96.

 

Yes, the fours are considered small engines for a wrangler, let alone the larger Cherokees we drive. Stick with the 4.0L I6 for the extra power and incredible reliability. I had an '87 E30 a few years ago, and it was comparable, if not a little harder, to do things on than my XJ

 

if its light rust inside the doors and rockers go for the 2000 and fix the rust, 90% of the jeeps has rust, also its just 112000 and no problem with aluminum head , most of my frineds drive 2000,2001 without any head problems ( I have 2001 with 170000 miles DD drive it )
also in my opinion the price is not bad 97 and up model you can sell them later with better price than older models ,try to pay 3000 and take the 2000 .
4300 is too much for 96 i know its 70k but its not worth this price they go for less than that check ebay

 

Rust is the enemy, if you can spanner an E39 you'll be fine with a Cherokee. Just be ready for a bit of a history lesson when you lift the hood but at least you won't need to keep changing wishbones

There's no point in a four pot, in anything really

 

You're recommending the four banger?? The six cylinder in these things isn't even the peppiest engine. I vote stick with the 4.0L

The price for the '96 does seem a tad high, but if its in perfect shape? (Of the two, I'd recommend the '96)

 

Do it! But I have a 92 and a 98 and my 98 is harder to work on cuz the electrical systems...but my 92 is a sport with the 4.0 2 door...190 hp stock..I love my jeep like a son after owning a xj and putting a little blood sweat tears and good time in it you will sell that beemer for jeep parts lol..im also pushing 250,000 miles and never had a major motor problem

 

sorry fast reading also english 2nd language lol
thought the 2000 4.0 , no i'm not with the 4 cyl engine stay with any 4.0
97+ models dont let the miles stop you, and don't pay 4000 for 96

i think 4 cyl engine need a rebuilt every 100k

 

Thanks. The seller of the 2000 said he'll take $3000 lowest.
It has an evap code on, so he's getting that looked at.
Also, the 2000 Sport with 112k actually has a 4.0L 6 cyl.

I don't need a perfect rust job.
As a quick and dirty fix, can I just sandblast the areas and have them "tarred & sealed" with whatever people use (What do people use?)

It sounds like the aluminum head thing is a bit exaggerated on the forums?
(Just takes ONE guy posted a busted head to get an entire forum to swear off the entire model year).
Meanwhile, thousands don't ever crack. As long as you're not overheating, lots of cars run alum. heads.
I'm not going to let this hold me back.

I really like the 1996, b/c the owner is exactly the right guy. Engine bay is very clean. It's clearly his DD and he's invested money to make it never break down. (Told the mechanic to replace every hose he could, etc) I can tell he doesn't even fully want to sell it. But, it's also tough overpaying a little at $4000. Again, it's got a lot of work done. I don't mind paying up front.

One small downside of the 1996 is that it was owned by a smoker. Faint smell left. I could pay someone $100 to shampoo the entire inside. Does that usually remove it?

 

About the cracked head thing, it's a lot more common than you think. There's a whole thread devoted to it. Mine happened before I even reached 100,000 miles. I really wouldn't go this route, just because there are so many this happens too. Then again, there are a lot, but to each his own. I had the same mindset as you - thought it was just one or two guys scaring everyone else, with other forum members just repeating everyone else. Definitely not the case in this situation. Good luck with your decision though!

 

Ok, thanks. What does the cracked head cost to repair? Ballpark.

I really want to stick to:
1) Minimal rust
2) under 125k
3) Good adult owner
4) 4.0L
5) Fair price (Under $4000)
6) 1996-1999 (Is there a best year?)

I have seen a couple, but none hit every criteria.
There seem to be plenty of these around, so I think it's wise to be patient.

 

If the '96 has no/minimal rust, 4k is not that far out of the ballpark with only 70k miles. This is my '96 with 160k on it, it's got all new brakes all the way around, new bearings in front, newer springs and shocks in the rear, 4.o runs like a dream, is strong like bull, and doesn't use any oil between changes. If I was to put it on the market today (I'll probably never sell it though, ), I'd be asking right around 4k for it:



Make sure you crawl underneath to check for rusted-out floor pans!