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Old 01-08-2014, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by XJriot

Lol. Wind chill isn't a temperature and can't freeze anything. It is how cold the wind feels.

" For inanimate objects, the effect of wind chill is to reduce any warmer objects to the ambient temperature more quickly. It cannot, however, reduce the temperature of these objects below the ambient temperature, no matter how great the wind velocity."

So if the temp is 0 and the wind chill is -30 the lowest that youll go is 0 but you'll just get there much quicker. It will feel colder but it isn't.

http://www.nws.noaa.gov/os/windchill/index.shtml
Okay, it got down to -28 degrees outside without windchill, my antifreeze frooze, the end.
Old 01-08-2014, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by XJriot
Lol. Wind chill isn't a temperature and can't freeze anything. It is how cold the wind feels.

" For inanimate objects, the effect of wind chill is to reduce any warmer objects to the ambient temperature more quickly. It cannot, however, reduce the temperature of these objects below the ambient temperature, no matter how great the wind velocity."

So if the temp is 0 and the wind chill is -30 the lowest that youll go is 0 but you'll just get there much quicker. It will feel colder but it isn't.

http://www.nws.noaa.gov/os/windchill/index.shtml
^This
Old 01-08-2014, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by salad
Where I'm going with this is that the AMC straight 6 (including our 4.0Ls) have a long reputation for increased piston slap when cold. Once they warm up, tolerances are closer to factory design. When cold, the pistons rattle around in the cylinders. Even if piston slap isn't audible (which these things did brand new in 1993-1994, by the way), it's pretty clear that a cold 4.0L does NOT have optimal clearances below operating temperature. It's not a good idea to apply a load like that.
Gotcha.

I don't know the exact time it takes a piston to heat up but i can't imagine it would be that long with all the explosions happening in there. It'll slap for a bit and probably does on most cars but I can't imagine it lasts too long unless there's some serious maintenance issues or the engine is loaded with miles.
Old 01-08-2014, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by SHELBYGT NSM
Okay, it got down to -28 degrees outside without windchill, my antifreeze frooze, the end.
Oh that really sucks. I think 50/50 goes down to -40F. Does yours have some age or are you running less that 50/50?
Old 01-08-2014, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by SHELBYGT NSM
Okay, it got down to -28 degrees outside without windchill, my antifreeze frooze, the end.
Sounds like you need new coolant or you have too much water in the system. I'd definitely get a flush and new stuff put in. Coolant is good for -34 I think but too much water will dilute it and raise the freezing point.
Old 01-08-2014, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by 4OHI6

Oh that really sucks. I think 50/50 goes down to -40F. Does yours have some age or are you running less that 50/50?
I put two gallons of 50/50 antifreeze in it thinking i should be good,, well i didn't know they held 3.5 gallons. Back in the summer i flushed my coolant system out with water then put two gallons of 50/50 in it then the other 1.5 gallons was pure water. That was left in it when i flushed it. So the whole time i thought it was full of 50/50 but i was wrong.
Old 01-08-2014, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by SHELBYGT NSM
I put two gallons of 50/50 antifreeze in it thinking i should be good,, well i didn't know they held 3.5 gallons. Back in the summer i flushed my coolant system out with water then put two gallons of 50/50 in it then the other 1.5 gallons was pure water. That was left in it when i flushed it. So the whole time i thought it was full of 50/50 but i was wrong.
So basically it had nothing to do with the wind chill, as you previously stated, and everything to do with improper care and maintenance of your vehicle.

Did your block crack when it froze?
Old 01-08-2014, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by XJriot

So basically it had nothing to do with the wind chill, as you previously stated, and everything to do with improper care and maintenance of your vehicle.

Did your block crack when it froze?
Even tho your correct about the improper care. and when did i say that windchill WILL freeze antifreeze.????? I asked if windchill could freeze antifreeze!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Old 01-08-2014, 11:56 AM
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Wind chill does not impact inanimate objects such as car radiators and exposed water pipes, because these objects cannot cool below the actual air temperature.
Old 01-08-2014, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by SHELBYGT NSM
Even tho your correct about the improper care. and when did i say that windchill WILL freeze antifreeze.????? I asked if windchill could freeze antifreeze!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I suppose that's the nature of the internet. I saw your comment as a sarcastic question like 'herpderp the wind chill was -34 which is the freezing point of my coolant which is why it froze' as opposed to a legit question about wind chill freezing coolant. If it was a legit question then I digress.

Did your block end up cracking?
Old 01-08-2014, 12:01 PM
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K
Old 01-08-2014, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by XJriot

Gotcha.

I don't know the exact time it takes a piston to heat up but i can't imagine it would be that long with all the explosions happening in there
Dunno. However long it takes the slap to go away I guess lol. It will certainly be less time than waiting for the oil to get up to temp.

Originally Posted by XJriot
I can't imagine it lasts too long unless there's some serious maintenance issues or the engine is loaded with miles.
That's like 90% of the engines on this site lol. These aren't brand new Mazdas that explode if you don't run 0w20, they like Xw40 becase they're so loose.
Old 01-08-2014, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by wcshale
Salad is right viscosity does change with temp. Put oil in a syringe and squirt it, put same oil in same syringe, freeze it and try again......... see?
This is not true of synthetic oil whose only real benefit is maintaining its viscosity well below freezing.

For conventional Dino oil it's 100% correct.
Old 01-08-2014, 04:26 PM
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So to recap.... Regardless if my motor is made of some cast iron, some forged steel, some cast aluminum, and a variety of other metals... they are commonly going to only change .000006 per degree of temp change... some off them are made in a circle so X2 on dia...and now we are going to "stick a torch" on top of the pistons to warm them up quickly, yet our overall block (which houses these pistons) will not warm up nearly as fast. There is nothing on here but opinions, and mine is get some semblance of operating temp before operating.
Mahle recommends a difference of .002 clearance between their aluminum piston and their monotherm piston (something to do with expansion on different metals)
I ramble...
It doesn't get real cold down here in Arkansas, but If anybody gets on a piece of equipment without checking the fluid levels, or starts to operate it without some warm up time on any of our jobsites, we don't consider them operators. That's just normal preventive maintenance, but what do I know. That's kinda like cool down time on a turbo diesel, we do that too.
I know this is all opinions, but I like to think mine are always right LOL
Old 01-08-2014, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by black label
This is not true of synthetic oil whose only real benefit is maintaining its viscosity well below freezing.

For conventional Dino oil it's 100% correct.
Good point,


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