Tuning my flex
#1
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Alright. In the process of buttoning up the majors in getting the jeep capable of daily driving. I've come to the assumption that my leafs are still pretty stiff as they push the body over without sucking up the rear tires deeper into the wells.
Specs:
5.5" re coils. Wj front end conversion. Custom radius arm front linkage built by yours truly.
4.5" re leafs with 1" re shackles. Mj d44 with disc brake conversion. Spring perches were custom made for the truck out of 1/4 steel and prob sit the leafs a half inch taller than stock perched would.
Bilstein 5125 shocks front and rear.
The trailer pictured below sits about 27-28 inches off the ground. The leaf spring of the rear tire that is stuffed is perfectly flat. Assuming that is technically perfect as I don't want to hyper extend the leaf but I still want the rear tires to stuff more. I feel link the front is much softer than the rear and the body is pitched over by the rear first.
I haven't trimmed the rear fenders as much as I want yet. I am going to be fabbing up my flares within the next couple days.
So. Does anyone have any ideas to further tune my suspension so the body can retain a more sitting position during greater suspension travel(rear). The front already flexes like gumby.
Or. Am I worrying about something stupid.
Specs:
5.5" re coils. Wj front end conversion. Custom radius arm front linkage built by yours truly.
4.5" re leafs with 1" re shackles. Mj d44 with disc brake conversion. Spring perches were custom made for the truck out of 1/4 steel and prob sit the leafs a half inch taller than stock perched would.
Bilstein 5125 shocks front and rear.
The trailer pictured below sits about 27-28 inches off the ground. The leaf spring of the rear tire that is stuffed is perfectly flat. Assuming that is technically perfect as I don't want to hyper extend the leaf but I still want the rear tires to stuff more. I feel link the front is much softer than the rear and the body is pitched over by the rear first.
I haven't trimmed the rear fenders as much as I want yet. I am going to be fabbing up my flares within the next couple days.
So. Does anyone have any ideas to further tune my suspension so the body can retain a more sitting position during greater suspension travel(rear). The front already flexes like gumby.
Or. Am I worrying about something stupid.
Last edited by sean21; 07-26-2012 at 12:11 AM.
#5
aka Wade-O
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Year: 1989 Comanche
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
how is your shackle angle? it looks like you get get a little more work out of the leaf springs. if one side is flat, than that is where your bumpstops should be set to. what did you use for joints on the arms?
#6
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Thanks everyone. I figured shackles is where I'd have to play around. The angle at full stuff is probably 30-45 degrees(4:00). Rude height around 50(5:00). Only gestimating as havnt put my angle finder to it. I'm calling zero vertical or 12:00 position.
Joints up front are 1.25 johnny joints on LCA frame end. Bushings made out of 2" x .25 Dom on all axle end joints and axle end track bar link. Jj's at frame end for track bar and on UCA connection point to LCA. 1 tonne tres all around.
Joints up front are 1.25 johnny joints on LCA frame end. Bushings made out of 2" x .25 Dom on all axle end joints and axle end track bar link. Jj's at frame end for track bar and on UCA connection point to LCA. 1 tonne tres all around.
Last edited by sean21; 07-26-2012 at 08:48 AM.
#7
Originally Posted by sean21
Thanks everyone. I figured shackles is where I'd have to play around. The angle at full stuff is probably 30-45 degrees(4:00). Rude height around 50(5:00). Only gestimating as havnt put my angle finder to it. I'm calling zero vertical or 12:00 position.
They are beef. Here is also a pic of the product and my shackle angle
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#8
Thats a little stiff I agree. Fex is not everything though.
And for where you have the fenders trimmed it looks about right.
Personally if I was after more flex I would make certain you are not bottoming out your shocks or over extending them.
Removing them then checking the flex and bump stop locations helps a lot.
Rely on the bump stops for maximum compressions and on extension your components.
Shocks are just for dampening.
my cherokee with stock springs and shocks flexes about a solid 35" easy maybe 37" in a slight bind.
Looking back at your photos it just looks to me like your losing some in the area of compression, possible the front could drop more?
Everything looks great though, Grood job!
And for where you have the fenders trimmed it looks about right.
Personally if I was after more flex I would make certain you are not bottoming out your shocks or over extending them.
Removing them then checking the flex and bump stop locations helps a lot.
Rely on the bump stops for maximum compressions and on extension your components.
Shocks are just for dampening.
my cherokee with stock springs and shocks flexes about a solid 35" easy maybe 37" in a slight bind.
Looking back at your photos it just looks to me like your losing some in the area of compression, possible the front could drop more?
Everything looks great though, Grood job!
Last edited by holycaveman; 07-26-2012 at 09:09 AM.
#10
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The trailer isn't maxing out the front. I've got it bumpstopped up front so that the tires almost contact the fender edges.
The rear in the trailer pics is without shocks installed as I wanted zero influence to see exactly what I was getting for tire movement. The shocks are perfectly fitted to the axle movement and do no hinder it.
My main concern was finding whether or not there was a way to "soften" the rear end so it didn't pitch the body over as much as it currently does, therefore having a greater roll possibility with seemingly small obstacles(for the rear).
The rear in the trailer pics is without shocks installed as I wanted zero influence to see exactly what I was getting for tire movement. The shocks are perfectly fitted to the axle movement and do no hinder it.
My main concern was finding whether or not there was a way to "soften" the rear end so it didn't pitch the body over as much as it currently does, therefore having a greater roll possibility with seemingly small obstacles(for the rear).
Last edited by sean21; 07-26-2012 at 08:31 PM.
#11
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Actually I was completely wrong on my shackle angle assumption at ride height. Doesn't look like I'm sitting where I want to be. (havnt re-installed my rear shocks)
I'm looking for roughly 45 degrees at ride height correct? I assumed that re leafs and shackles would sit themselves on the appropriate angles.
Will shackle relocation brackets raise the rear? Not sure I want that. Sits pretty square as is it now in my opinion.
I'm looking for roughly 45 degrees at ride height correct? I assumed that re leafs and shackles would sit themselves on the appropriate angles.
Will shackle relocation brackets raise the rear? Not sure I want that. Sits pretty square as is it now in my opinion.
Last edited by sean21; 07-26-2012 at 08:30 PM.
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