Types of Long Arms
03-28-2013, 10:56 AM
#16
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Nine Mile Falls, WA
Posts: 233
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Cheapest long arms i no of are iro at 600 so im still 350 under that lol. I am using square tube vs dom. Dom does add to the price. I am building my own for 2 reasons I'm moving the axle forward and it just was not in my budget lol. I would not say this is something to just jump into I myself and a lot of others have done a lot a research before jumping into a project like this. If you do not have the tools or the welding skills I do not recommend it.
03-28-2013, 07:20 PM
#18
CF Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Newport, pa
Posts: 2,820
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
-personal experience-
Ive built and run a "3link radius arm" setup, going from short arms its awesome, flexes good handles good on the road and trails and rocks.
BUT
then when i did my front axle swap, I changed it up to a full 3 link, johnny joints on frame and axle...and.. radius arms are now silly to me
. the 3 link handles SO much better on the road and trail, out flexes my old radius arm setup, is A LOT more predictable on the rocks and all around just feels more solid.
now, cost. Radius arm is a little cheaper to build (less material) but in my opinion, if your going to build it, build it right the first time, spend a few extra bucks to make something that you will be happy with and that will handle good. Sure you can buy a long arm online, but they are all cookie cutter for the most parts, I think clayton is the only one ive seen that offers a full 3 link, so anything else your getting radius arm. And, do you want to be like everyone else? Or do you want to out perform them?
3 link rules of thumb:
-keep upper and lower links as parallel as possible
-the more horizontal you can get your links, the better
-johnny joints or heims work great(prefered)
-make sure your mounts are stout!
3link, buddy on 36s, me on 35s....on his fender
Droopage.....
Radius arm... not a good pic but it's maxed out
Ive built and run a "3link radius arm" setup, going from short arms its awesome, flexes good handles good on the road and trails and rocks.
BUT
then when i did my front axle swap, I changed it up to a full 3 link, johnny joints on frame and axle...and.. radius arms are now silly to me
. the 3 link handles SO much better on the road and trail, out flexes my old radius arm setup, is A LOT more predictable on the rocks and all around just feels more solid.now, cost. Radius arm is a little cheaper to build (less material) but in my opinion, if your going to build it, build it right the first time, spend a few extra bucks to make something that you will be happy with and that will handle good. Sure you can buy a long arm online, but they are all cookie cutter for the most parts, I think clayton is the only one ive seen that offers a full 3 link, so anything else your getting radius arm. And, do you want to be like everyone else? Or do you want to out perform them?
3 link rules of thumb:
-keep upper and lower links as parallel as possible
-the more horizontal you can get your links, the better
-johnny joints or heims work great(prefered)
-make sure your mounts are stout!
3link, buddy on 36s, me on 35s....on his fender
Droopage.....
Radius arm... not a good pic but it's maxed out
Last edited by foxmxrcer; 03-28-2013 at 08:47 PM.
03-28-2013, 08:11 PM
#20
-personal experience-
Ive built and run a "3link radius arm" setup, going from short arms its awesome, flexes good handles good on the road and trails and rocks.
BUT
then when i did my front axle swap, I changed it up to a full 3 link, johnny joints on frame and axle...and.. radius arms are now silly to me . the 3 link handles SO much better on the road and trail, out flexes my old radius arm setup, is A LOT more predictable on the rocks and all around just feels more solid.
now, cost. Radius arm is a little cheaper to build (less material) but in my opinion, if your going to build it, build it right the first time, spend a few extra bucks to make something that you will be happy with and that will handle good. Sure you can buy a long arm online, but they are all cookie cutter for the most parts, I think clayton is the only one ive seen that offers a full 3 link, so anything else your getting radius arm. And, do you want to be like everyone else? Or do you want to out perform them?
3 link rules of thumb:
-keep upper and lower links as perpendicular as possible
-the more horizontal you can get your links, the better
-johnny joints or heims work great(prefered)
-make sure your mounts are stout!
3link, buddy on 36s, me on 35s....on his fender
Droopage.....
Radius arm... not a good pic but it's maxed out
Ive built and run a "3link radius arm" setup, going from short arms its awesome, flexes good handles good on the road and trails and rocks.
BUT
then when i did my front axle swap, I changed it up to a full 3 link, johnny joints on frame and axle...and.. radius arms are now silly to me
. the 3 link handles SO much better on the road and trail, out flexes my old radius arm setup, is A LOT more predictable on the rocks and all around just feels more solid.now, cost. Radius arm is a little cheaper to build (less material) but in my opinion, if your going to build it, build it right the first time, spend a few extra bucks to make something that you will be happy with and that will handle good. Sure you can buy a long arm online, but they are all cookie cutter for the most parts, I think clayton is the only one ive seen that offers a full 3 link, so anything else your getting radius arm. And, do you want to be like everyone else? Or do you want to out perform them?
3 link rules of thumb:
-keep upper and lower links as perpendicular as possible
-the more horizontal you can get your links, the better
-johnny joints or heims work great(prefered)
-make sure your mounts are stout!
3link, buddy on 36s, me on 35s....on his fender
Droopage.....
Radius arm... not a good pic but it's maxed out
03-28-2013, 08:32 PM
#21
CF Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Newport, pa
Posts: 2,820
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
As I said, crappy pic... the picture is deceiving, the driver rear is actually in a hole, picture was more for droop relation then anything. Both suspensions are self built.
03-28-2013, 08:36 PM
#22
CF Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Newport, pa
Posts: 2,820
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Cross member, though built by me, has nothing to do with either of those set ups. My lower arms are only about 29"long, brackets are welded to unibody(yes it's reinforced). Lowers Mount directly infront of x member, as high up as possible, upper Mount on 3link is inboard of the rail, and above, actually sitting inside the passenger floor board.
03-28-2013, 09:02 PM
#24
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Nine Mile Falls, WA
Posts: 233
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Cross member, though built by me, has nothing to do with either of those set ups. My lower arms are only about 29"long, brackets are welded to unibody(yes it's reinforced). Lowers Mount directly infront of x member, as high up as possible, upper Mount on 3link is inboard of the rail, and above, actually sitting inside the passenger floor board.
03-28-2013, 10:04 PM
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 812
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
heims only on one end. might just be the camera focus but those welds look like sheit dude what happened. how much for the whole setup? and why get this custom setup instead of their full 3 link or long arms
03-28-2013, 11:40 PM
#29
CF Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 6,685
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
IMO, 3 link is the ticket. Easier to package than a 4 link, no binding, performs better than any radius setup.
And on that note, my 3 link
2"x1/4" dom with 1.25" heims
And on that note, my 3 link
2"x1/4" dom with 1.25" heims
03-28-2013, 11:52 PM
#30
CF Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: City of Trees, CA
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
9 Posts
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
how does the transmission bolt up to the xmember?
why did you choose pass side upper vs driver side upper?
have you ever worried that the lower link mounts on the xmember werent beefy enough?
have 2 bolts holding the xmember to the frame been sufficient enough so far?
I really dig the simplicity of the cross member