Hello,
I foolishly traded in a pretty good condition 1993 4dr XJ a few years ago because I didn't have the time or desire to hunt down and fix all the leaks on my DD. I got $500 trade in which I didn't have in cash at the time so I needed it but I shouldn't have let it go.

Now I want a Cherokee again as a project/toy in the short term then a low use DD and camping rig and then hopefully as a toad behind a bus conversion (coach, not school) that I want to make into a full time home on the road.

I've got mild to moderate plans for making it adventure worthy so that we can camp in some remote spots and get places you'd never get a bus to but those are all the costs that are fairly easy to forecast. I'm looking for the costs I should basically plan on when I get a new to me Cherokee to start off on the right foot from an old car reliability standpoint.

I expect that I'll end up in an early 90's model with 180-200k. I'll be looking for the best known problems and obvious issues to avoid or plan on repairing at the required costs. I'm in the Pacific Northwest and we have surprisingly low rust in our undercarriages out here but I'll certainly keep an eye out for that.

Aside from rust and obvious issues, what should I plan on doing once I get a new ride? Which fluids should I replace, which ones should I flush, are there bushings (other than the ones that get replaced in a 3.5" full leaf lift), gaskets, or other parts that I should budget for right off the bat?

I've seen some pretty comprehensive lists of inspections to do when buying and lists of parts required for various upgrades and mods, and I've seen mention of "flushing and replacing all the fluids" but I don't think I've ever seen a "these are the recommended first steps after acquiring a used Cherokee with little to no maintenance records."

TLDR: What are the recommended first steps after acquiring a used Cherokee with little to no maintenance records?

 

I'd shoot for a 97-99 model if possible. 96-97 was a changee over year and thigs are funky with acquiring parts, not hard, but some had the 96 and earlier, some had 97 and later parts. The 00-01's have a casting defect in the 0331 head between cylinders 3 and 4. My tune up list..
-plugs
-wires
-cap
-rotor
-refresh all cables/grounds
-maybe o2 sensors
-clean/replace IAC, TPS, MAP
-oil/filter, Rotella T 15w40 diesel, no FRAM filters! NAPA, WIX are ok
-radiator fluid check
+other coolant system components to be aware of:
-T-stat
-water pump
-lines
-cap
-depending on mileage do all fluids, No ATF-4 in tranny, dextron 3 in the trany and transfer case works. 75w90 for the diffs.
-the front end will probably need new TRE's, maybe joints too. Look into the V8 ZJ tie rod upgrade.
-you said: "are there bushings (other than the ones that get replaced in a 3.5" full leaf lift)" the rest of the connections are greased joints.
-maybe new shocks
-brake work

Before you start buying parts, know what your end game is. If staying under 2" then you really only need spacers and shackles. Go to 3-3.5" and it's a lot more..

 

Thanks for the perfect reply.
I've been reading a bit and had seen plenty of advice consistent with your years suggestions, I just think if I'm planning on a nice refresh once I get it I may be best off with the fairly significant cost savings of the 91-95 range. I'm certainly more interested in the 97-99 range, but unless I see an amazing deal I'll probably end up pre-96.

That tune-up list is exactly what I was looking for and hadn't found yet.

I expect the stock springs to be sagging and I'd love to fit 31" tires so I had been leaning toward a 3 or 3.5" lift with full leafs and coils. But if I could figure out a good 2" with springs that would fit 31" tires with some inconspicuous trimming behind the flares I'd be pretty excited about that. I should probably dig deeper into the various lift/tire threads to see if there is a great combo that fits that. A SYE seems like the hands down right way to go instead of spacers but clearly ups the cost and complexity, going 2" would save me that concern.

 

Yes, once you hit the 3-3.5" mark it's brake lines, shocks, control arms (more for DD comfort than needed), SYE/drive shaft. TC drops put added bind on the front. As for fitting 31's if you added 2", did a little trimming and extend bump stops you'll be good. Be aware of the pinch seam on rear fenders, can be a PITA if you cut it too far.. I'd do these leafs for the rear and a 1" extended shackle, just spacers up front..