What did you do to your Cherokee today?
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Location: Ashburn, VA
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by dukie564
That IRO OTK system is the weirdest thing I've ever seen. Why would they run the drag link in front of the tie rod? I guess it keeps you from having to relocate your axle side trackbar mount...hmmm
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Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
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I played with PB Blaster today. Dumped it down my heatercore "top" hose. Let it soak for a minute or so, then flushed it from both directions. Yay! I have heat! Then I changed my coolant and thermostat. Anybody know if PB is too harsh for a heater core? I'm not leaking but I don't want to do that again. I worried about turning my core into a sive, but I shy away from dismantling dash boards...
The thing that brought your heat back was not the PB, but the flushing of the heater core from both directions.
The widely accepted method is to drain the heater core, then fill it with water and CLR. Let sit for 5-10 mins and then flush from both directions. this breaks up/dissolves the mineral scale that builds up.
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.Slow
Originally Posted by somethingclever
Sold mine last night & bought a new one today... Drove it to get registered holly Hell 45min into it... Sit n wait game now
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.Slow
Originally Posted by 89Laredo
PB is an oil, only thing it did was contaminate your cooling system (if not flushed good). It wont hurt the heater core.
The thing that brought your heat back was not the PB, but the flushing of the heater core from both directions.
The widely accepted method is to drain the heater core, then fill it with water and CLR. Let sit for 5-10 mins and then flush from both directions. this breaks up/dissolves the mineral scale that builds up.
The thing that brought your heat back was not the PB, but the flushing of the heater core from both directions.
The widely accepted method is to drain the heater core, then fill it with water and CLR. Let sit for 5-10 mins and then flush from both directions. this breaks up/dissolves the mineral scale that builds up.
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Location: The Florida State University
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 L
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.Slow
Originally Posted by cf1k1
It's the white one. Police package: rubber floor, high idle switch, bigger disc brakes etc. But, he said he wants that other 2" lift.
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 L
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.Slow
Originally Posted by cf1k1
So while I was soaking the bolts and such, I noticed, the right leaf is flat and the left one is a little bit arched up, can't even tell. Like 1/4" arch. And btw, Josh got his centering pins from auto zone
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Changed the diff oil in the 4x2. I had every intention of pulling the shaft and finding out if it's a 27 or 29sp. But, I got started late. Then, I had a helluva time getting the old RTV gasket off the cover. It was the factory gasket and they laid it on kinda thick! But can you imagine, that oil's been in there for 14 years! It was clear, but kinda thin. Anyway, I had to use a wire brush on a drill to get all the old gasket off. At this point, it was getting too late to pull the axle, so I sealed her up and got the new oil in.
I figure I'm just going to follow everyone's advice and just swap the C8.25 over to the 4x4. At that point, I'll find out what I have so I can eventually order the proper locker & alloy shafts.
I figure I'm just going to follow everyone's advice and just swap the C8.25 over to the 4x4. At that point, I'll find out what I have so I can eventually order the proper locker & alloy shafts.