What did you do to your Cherokee today?
03-29-2012, 10:03 PM
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Originally Posted by Customizer1000
Mine does! On both sides
03-29-2012, 10:16 PM
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L
03-29-2012, 10:37 PM
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by sycoglitch
I actually like where you put those. I guess it isn't so bad when they aren't located like the libbys
03-29-2012, 11:27 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 XJ
Today I put on my rear shocks with the rear sway bar brackets as bar pin eliminators, installed my Rough Country quick disconnects, steering stabilizer and ZJ pitman arm for a 1 inch drop.
The Pitman arm put the steering link at a better angle on the rod end. The stock XJ one puckered the boot and squeezed out the grease. I only have a 3 inch lift but the angle didn't look good.
I got the heavy duty Gabriel steering stabilizer from Autozone, the regular one looked like the stock crappy one and was the same price. Easy decision.
The Rough Country disconnects are actually for a 4 to 6 inch lift. Making them a little too long for a 3 inch. At first they were clunking but after about 5 or 6 times they dented the fender well and don't seem to be hitting anymore. I am going to take my hammer and dent them a bit more to be safe.
The rear shocks I bought from Azone and are Jeep MJ Comanche shocks. The are 24.? inches and are the same length as the 3 to 4 inch lift shock that come in most kits. When I took off the sway bar, I used the brackets from it as bar pin eliminators for the rear shocks. They work perfect, I just needed some washers for the bolts since the old bar pins have smaller openings.
The Pitman arm put the steering link at a better angle on the rod end. The stock XJ one puckered the boot and squeezed out the grease. I only have a 3 inch lift but the angle didn't look good.
I got the heavy duty Gabriel steering stabilizer from Autozone, the regular one looked like the stock crappy one and was the same price. Easy decision.
The Rough Country disconnects are actually for a 4 to 6 inch lift. Making them a little too long for a 3 inch. At first they were clunking but after about 5 or 6 times they dented the fender well and don't seem to be hitting anymore. I am going to take my hammer and dent them a bit more to be safe.
The rear shocks I bought from Azone and are Jeep MJ Comanche shocks. The are 24.? inches and are the same length as the 3 to 4 inch lift shock that come in most kits. When I took off the sway bar, I used the brackets from it as bar pin eliminators for the rear shocks. They work perfect, I just needed some washers for the bolts since the old bar pins have smaller openings.
Last edited by Modrod; 03-30-2012 at 12:59 AM.
03-29-2012, 11:32 PM
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Year: 87
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 4 banger
Used it as a shooting platform to sight in my rifle after messing with the scope rings. a dime at 100 yards with a 4 shot group out of a bargain rifle? im happy haha
03-29-2012, 11:47 PM
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Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Grats on the kid.
To catch up on “What did you do to your jeep today”. I changed brake pads and rotors but then developed a hub squeal so changed hub. Developed tranny leak fixed leak. It leaked again so I fixed it again but on the last turn of the wrench to fix the Tranny leak it developed a coolant leak. Replaced lower hose to fix coolant leak then tranny leaked once again repaired once again then on test drive a weird sound coming from engine. After 1/2 day found the squeal was one of the idler pulleys. Replaced idler pulley and I’m good for now.....I hope! See if I ever plan upgrades again I’ve learned my lesson.
To catch up on “What did you do to your jeep today”. I changed brake pads and rotors but then developed a hub squeal so changed hub. Developed tranny leak fixed leak. It leaked again so I fixed it again but on the last turn of the wrench to fix the Tranny leak it developed a coolant leak. Replaced lower hose to fix coolant leak then tranny leaked once again repaired once again then on test drive a weird sound coming from engine. After 1/2 day found the squeal was one of the idler pulleys. Replaced idler pulley and I’m good for now.....I hope! See if I ever plan upgrades again I’ve learned my lesson.
Last edited by ZJ97; 03-30-2012 at 12:09 AM.
03-29-2012, 11:55 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 XJ
Congrats, get him used to your Jeep early. lol
Attachment 105747
I brought my son home from the hospital in it the hum of the tires made him go to sleep
I brought my son home from the hospital in it the hum of the tires made him go to sleep
03-30-2012, 12:39 AM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 XJ
Sealed up just means they either did or had someone do the seals and gaskets "replacing the oil seals, valve cover and pan gaskets.
If your Jeep has the crazy oil filter adapter thing where the oil filter is "Usualy early XJ's and MJ's" mounted on that thing that comes out of the block, instead of being screwed directly to the block.
It is probably leaking from there. The newer XJ's do not have this adapter thing. The problem is the adapter has 3 or so o-rings that are made out of cheap rubber that dries out and rots creating cracks and flat spots on them. So the adapter will leak all around itself and dribble down to the block and the wind and fan blow it to all over the starter and to the rear of the engine by the inspection plate on the transmission. So it looks like it is leaking out of the rear main seal.
If you have oil all over your starter then it is probably from this oil filter adapter unit. Mine does this and I am about to remove it.
Once you get this adapter off you can take the filter mount off of it "the actual threaded part the filter screws to" and screw it directly to the engine block. You also have to take out an alignment pin that is on the edge of the sealing surface of the block where the adapter and filter would seal.
Vise grips and a pry with a screw driver should do it. The filter mount thing that needs to be taken off the adapter and put onto the block is best taken off with an impact gun. But maybe you can put it in a vise and do it that way.
Anyway, the people that have Jeeps that don't leak oil so much usually don't have this adapter thing. I think it is only early XJ's and MJ's that have it. My Jeep is pretty dry except for this adapter. The oil filter that works best to screw directly to the block is the "WIX 51348" You can also get an o-ring kit for the adapter but why? lol
I hate the thing, it is just a pain and a potential for leaks.
Some people have problems getting the roll pin out. One guy used some bolt cutters and crimped the roll half way and then using the side of the block pried with the bolt cutters to get it out.
Here is a more detailed write up.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/c...rokee-1162291/
If your Jeep has the crazy oil filter adapter thing where the oil filter is "Usualy early XJ's and MJ's" mounted on that thing that comes out of the block, instead of being screwed directly to the block.
It is probably leaking from there. The newer XJ's do not have this adapter thing. The problem is the adapter has 3 or so o-rings that are made out of cheap rubber that dries out and rots creating cracks and flat spots on them. So the adapter will leak all around itself and dribble down to the block and the wind and fan blow it to all over the starter and to the rear of the engine by the inspection plate on the transmission. So it looks like it is leaking out of the rear main seal.
If you have oil all over your starter then it is probably from this oil filter adapter unit. Mine does this and I am about to remove it.
Once you get this adapter off you can take the filter mount off of it "the actual threaded part the filter screws to" and screw it directly to the engine block. You also have to take out an alignment pin that is on the edge of the sealing surface of the block where the adapter and filter would seal.
Vise grips and a pry with a screw driver should do it. The filter mount thing that needs to be taken off the adapter and put onto the block is best taken off with an impact gun. But maybe you can put it in a vise and do it that way.
Anyway, the people that have Jeeps that don't leak oil so much usually don't have this adapter thing. I think it is only early XJ's and MJ's that have it. My Jeep is pretty dry except for this adapter. The oil filter that works best to screw directly to the block is the "WIX 51348" You can also get an o-ring kit for the adapter but why? lol
I hate the thing, it is just a pain and a potential for leaks.
Some people have problems getting the roll pin out. One guy used some bolt cutters and crimped the roll half way and then using the side of the block pried with the bolt cutters to get it out.
Here is a more detailed write up.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/c...rokee-1162291/