What did you do to your Cherokee today?
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Originally Posted by Modrod
Sealed up just means they either did or had someone do the seals and gaskets "replacing the oil seals, valve cover and pan gaskets.
If your Jeep has the crazy oil filter adapter thing where the oil filter is "Usualy early XJ's and MJ's" mounted on that thing that comes out of the block, instead of being screwed directly to the block.
It is probably leaking from there. The newer XJ's do not have this adapter thing. The problem is the adapter has 3 or so o-rings that are made out of cheap rubber that dries out and rots creating cracks and flat spots on them. So the adapter will leak all around itself and dribble down to the block and the wind and fan blow it to all over the starter and to the rear of the engine by the inspection plate on the transmission. So it looks like it is leaking out of the rear main seal.
If you have oil all over your starter then it is probably from this oil filter adapter unit. Mine does this and I am about to remove it.
Once you get this adapter off you can take the filter mount off of it "the actual threaded part the filter screws to" and screw it directly to the engine block. You also have to take out an alignment pin that is on the edge of the sealing surface of the block where the adapter and filter would seal.
Vise grips and a pry with a screw driver should do it. The filter mount thing that needs to be taken off the adapter and put onto the block is best taken off with an impact gun. But maybe you can put it in a vise and do it that way.
Anyway, the people that have Jeeps that don't leak oil so much usually don't have this adapter thing. I think it is only early XJ's and MJ's that have it. My Jeep is pretty dry except for this adapter. The oil filter that works best to screw directly to the block is the "WIX 51348" You can also get an o-ring kit for the adapter but why? lol
I hate the thing, it is just a pain and a potential for leaks.
Some people have problems getting the roll pin out. One guy used some bolt cutters and crimped the roll half way and then using the side of the block pried with the bolt cutters to get it out.
Here is a more detailed write up.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/c...rokee-1162291/
If your Jeep has the crazy oil filter adapter thing where the oil filter is "Usualy early XJ's and MJ's" mounted on that thing that comes out of the block, instead of being screwed directly to the block.
It is probably leaking from there. The newer XJ's do not have this adapter thing. The problem is the adapter has 3 or so o-rings that are made out of cheap rubber that dries out and rots creating cracks and flat spots on them. So the adapter will leak all around itself and dribble down to the block and the wind and fan blow it to all over the starter and to the rear of the engine by the inspection plate on the transmission. So it looks like it is leaking out of the rear main seal.
If you have oil all over your starter then it is probably from this oil filter adapter unit. Mine does this and I am about to remove it.
Once you get this adapter off you can take the filter mount off of it "the actual threaded part the filter screws to" and screw it directly to the engine block. You also have to take out an alignment pin that is on the edge of the sealing surface of the block where the adapter and filter would seal.
Vise grips and a pry with a screw driver should do it. The filter mount thing that needs to be taken off the adapter and put onto the block is best taken off with an impact gun. But maybe you can put it in a vise and do it that way.
Anyway, the people that have Jeeps that don't leak oil so much usually don't have this adapter thing. I think it is only early XJ's and MJ's that have it. My Jeep is pretty dry except for this adapter. The oil filter that works best to screw directly to the block is the "WIX 51348" You can also get an o-ring kit for the adapter but why? lol
I hate the thing, it is just a pain and a potential for leaks.
Some people have problems getting the roll pin out. One guy used some bolt cutters and crimped the roll half way and then using the side of the block pried with the bolt cutters to get it out.
Here is a more detailed write up.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/c...rokee-1162291/
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Yeah, I read that too. That is definitely an issue. That is probably why they did the adapter in the first place. But the WIX filter number I put in the post is smaller in diameter than the Fram or the Purolator one most people use.
The guy that did the write up where I got the info had that same problem and went to the WIX filter. If you replace the 0-rings with good quality ones that are not rubber and resist oil and solvents, the adapter will probably last forever. I just would rather have the filter directly to the block, as long as it is out of the way of the motor mount.
If someones engine is moving around that much, they probably need to replace the motor mounts anyway. The leaky adapter makes the rubber motor mount soft and ruins them. So maybe remove the adapter and replace the passenger motor mount at the same time.
The guy that did the write up where I got the info had that same problem and went to the WIX filter. If you replace the 0-rings with good quality ones that are not rubber and resist oil and solvents, the adapter will probably last forever. I just would rather have the filter directly to the block, as long as it is out of the way of the motor mount.
If someones engine is moving around that much, they probably need to replace the motor mounts anyway. The leaky adapter makes the rubber motor mount soft and ruins them. So maybe remove the adapter and replace the passenger motor mount at the same time.
I had to replace the 3 o-rings. That was easily. Taking the adapter off...that was hard. I considered removing the adapter altogether, but after doing research, I decided to keep it. Seems that some people took the adapter off & screwed the filter directly onto the block. Then they went wheeling. Maybe they had bad motor mounts because the motor would move/shift and the oil filter would mash against a wall or brace or whatever. Worst case scenario, it punched a hole in the filter out on trail. Changing the o-rings is cheap & easy, once you take off the adapter.
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This week: finished repairing driver door wiring harness, removed all door moldings only to find bad body repair under 2 of the four doors(more rust) and replaced valve cover gasket.
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Yesterday's report:
Removed factory front bumper
test fit JK front bumper
minor mods necessary for correct distance, fit
test fit JK front bumper again
....perfect....now to engineer and weld up some mounts.
Removed factory front bumper
test fit JK front bumper
minor mods necessary for correct distance, fit
test fit JK front bumper again
....perfect....now to engineer and weld up some mounts.
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Originally Posted by sfcherokeeguy
Parked next to this monster keep in mind I have a 3.5 lift
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Originally Posted by Customizer1000
That's nothing, we have 14 camaros, 6 vettes, 24 vw, 16 Chevy trucks, 18 Ford trucks and tons of small cars and 13 xjs, 9yjs and one leprehcaun
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Originally Posted by sfcherokeeguy
Parked next to this monster keep in mind I have a 3.5 lift
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Originally Posted by waffalz22
Although a monster it's still a yard truck the owner prob wouldn't take it half the places our xjs have been