salad

lol

dabuilding

I got out the rattle can like I've been meaning to do for a while, I still need bed liner for the rack

cruiser54

Here: Make sure.



　
I'd be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.
Everybody, who doesn't own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking.
Many mechanics, friends, people on Jeep forums who can’t see your Jeep from where they’re at, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?
A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.

Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons.
First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill".

Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first.
Revised 02-26-2013

bakas

Filled up the tank. Considering I averaged 23 mpg with the last one, I'm happy.

white99xjclassic

Rubicon Express. Yes it does.

dabuilding

And 1 more

94XjSport94

Made a under body skid of my Clayton crossmember



Looked pretty


Didn't quite work with the driveshaft when it would flex and was hitting the case.



Made from 10' sch 40 1-1/4 pipe and 1/4" plate.

HS00XJ

Broke 150k

samj

All highway? Do you have the 2.5 or the 4.0, because I thought getting 18.2 mpg with the 4.0/auto combo was something to be happy about!

Anyway, I picked up a new heater core today and started to do the prep work for my day off on Wednesday when I ran into a pretty big issue. I went to get the driver's seat out and there's 1 stubborn little son of a gun 13mm bolt that refuses to break free, so I'll probably have to cut that off but my real issue is the passenger seat...one of the front bolts just wasn't there, and the other one wasn't attached to anything, so after throwing a few 17mm wrenches across the yard in a fit of rage, I called it quits for the night. If the weather holds off tomorrow I'm gonna cut that last bolt off and peel the carpets back and see how bad the rust on the passenger's side is. Guess now is as good a time as any to learn how to MIG weld before I go back to college..what do you guys think? Should I patch it if I can or should I go ahead and throw down a new passenger panel? The front mounting holes are gone on that little hump in the floor.

Puddin'

Installed my HD relay harness and 90/100w Hyper White bulbs. Here's a side by side with my Dads Expedition and stock bulbs. Btw, the glare isn't bad at all. Pretty good cutoff with Autopals. Just the camera phone making it look like alot of glare.

1st Pic Low Beams.
2nd Pic Highs

ShadowWalker

Began my a/c compressor on board air.

Houston Kid

I learned the following lessons over the weekend and today while installing the Aussie Lockers:

Lessons learned

1. You need the clam shell type bearing separator to remove the bearings off of the carrier. For the front carrier anyway. Saves you from wasting an hour grinding some of the old race in hopes the bearing puller you got from Vatozone will get enough bite to work.

2. There are two shims on the front carrier bearings, so don't miss one of them and figure it out after you put the carrier back in. Saves you from having to removed the carrier, the bearing, and putting another bearing on because you destroyed the new one to get it off.

3. Measure your spacing on your wheel hub assemblies before installing rotors, calipers, and tires so the rotors won't bind up against the spindles after the tires are on. Saves you from having to take everything back apart and make another trip to the parts store for correct part.

4. Use a 3/16 long shaft pin punch to drive out the roll pin that holds in the cross shaft rod. Trying anything else is simple a waste of an hour or two.

5. The carrier has to come out of the front diff and the pinion ring gear has to come off to get the cross shaft rod out. You can get the roll pin out and get the cross shaft to move, but it won't clear the teeth on the pinion ring gear.

6. Because the carrier does not need to be removed on the 8.25 diff, it is easier to install the rear Aussie locker than the front.

Tom95YJ

My mudflaps were starting to tear where they were bolted to the brackets with nuts and washers so I cut up some old liscence plates to sandwich the flaps to distribute the load and prevent tears.

XJPat

Thanks Cruiser, but it is the rear main seal or oil pan gasket in the back there, both will be replaced. I have worked my way down the engine I was hoping the oil filter adapter arm was my only leak but no luck. On the bright-side I fixed my oil pressure gauge by cleaning up the connection at the sender. Love those free fixes.

JWheeler

Finally got my Ironman shackle relocation brackets in.