What did you do to your Cherokee today?
[QUOTE="92sw;2671008"] Looks good[/QUOTE
Thanks it was way more frustrating than I thought it would be. Broken bolts are the bane of my existence. I don't remember having this much problem with rusted bolts on any of my 40+ year old hot rods
Thanks it was way more frustrating than I thought it would be. Broken bolts are the bane of my existence. I don't remember having this much problem with rusted bolts on any of my 40+ year old hot rods
Beach Bum
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,123
Likes: 21
From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Finished putting the TC drop on "Babe the blue jeep" 3.5 RE super-flex lift is done. Now I have to start chasing down vibes and noises that weren't there before I started. It is vibrating when I give it the gas but not when I slow down. I'm sure that something isn't aligned right.
Also when you add a TC drop, it raises the angle of the front output shaft. Increasing the driveline angle.
Sounds like a SYE is in your near future.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 4,825
Likes: 2
From: Indianapolis
Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 14,553
Likes: 1
From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
People can talk all they want, but your headlights are being supplied current via factory 18 gauge wire... That is pitiful to say the least. My harness is 10 gauge :gunsmile:
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 4
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Herp Derp Jerp
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 13
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
I've seen it.. great setup!
I was just trying to replace OME with off the shelf aftermarket "a touch better than OME".... I think it'll be just fine... not running outlandish wattage lights...
Still haven't seen anyone explain the issue... we all know the xj's wiring setup has plenty to be desired... i understand that... but burnin up **** from an OME replacement design for a "FLEET" vehicle headlight makes me wonder....
Don't get me wrong, I enjoy input.. that's why we're all here
The stock headlight wiring is of an incredibly short-sighted design made for ease of installation and low cost. The power flows from the battery, to the junction block, to the headlight switch, to the lamps over measly 18 AWG wire. The tiny wire and long length means that there's an unavoidable drop in voltage: about 5% for stock low beams, up to 15% for high beams or bright aftermarket lights. Just from how tiny the wire is. Now take 13-25 years of rain and salt exposure that adds corrosion, which increases resistance and drives up overall current; and 13-25 years of vibration, which inevitably results in a few broken strands in the wire, increasing resistance and driving up current. It's not uncommon for a voltage drop of 20% or more at the headlight sockets of an aged XJ. Aside from being incredibly dim, the power requirements go way up as resistance increases. The next weakest point in the system is the headlight switch: It, like most switches, is built with smaller conductors and favors a compact size over heat performance. With 40A or more going through this thing from all lighting on the vehicle (can you say "single point of failure") it's no surprise that if they don't outright melt, heat cycling causes failure.
A proper harness moves the biggest load off of the switch to a relay-driven circuit on heavy gauge wire. A short run directly from the battery is ideal. The stock wiring is then used only as a means of controlling the relays, which is about a 500 mA load, compared to the previous 10-20. The lamps get way more current available with almost no loss, and a substantial load is removed from ancient wiring and a critical switch.
You haven't done anything wrong at all with Sylvanias. Adding in a harness will only compliment them and make your electrical parts last longer. Many people favor the Putco harness, and there's another popular one from eAutoWorks.
Putco: Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/Putco-230004HW-Premium-Automotive-Lighting/dp/B001P29X4G/
eAW: Can't find the link...
Putco: Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/Putco-230004HW-Premium-Automotive-Lighting/dp/B001P29X4G/
eAW: Can't find the link...
Herp Derp Jerp
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 13
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 583
Likes: 0
From: Clear Lake, TX
Year: 1999 Jeep Cherokee
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Here you go. Plug and play, then wiring the relays then deciding where to mount the relays. I added the inline fuses just in case.
Last edited by Houston Kid; 11-10-2013 at 10:16 AM.
Herp Derp Jerp
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 13
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
This is true too: http://jeep-xj.info/HowtoHeadlightLoom.htm
In my case the H4 connectors alone cost as much as an entire harness shipped to my door. :|
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/showthread.php?t=151217
This is true too: http://jeep-xj.info/HowtoHeadlightLoom.htm
In my case the H4 connectors alone cost as much as an entire harness shipped to my door. :|