ThousndYardStare

[QUOTE="92sw;2671008"] Looks good[/QUOTE

Thanks it was way more frustrating than I thought it would be. Broken bolts are the bane of my existence. I don't remember having this much problem with rusted bolts on any of my 40+ year old hot rods

SteveMongr

That is vibration is from the driveshaft.
Also when you add a TC drop, it raises the angle of the front output shaft. Increasing the driveline angle.
Sounds like a SYE is in your near future.

DieselD

I had those in my 99 on stock wiring for about 6 months before I got my H4 upgrade/wiring harness in there. I never caught fire. Lol

94XjSport94

People can talk all they want, but your headlights are being supplied current via factory 18 gauge wire... That is pitiful to say the least. My harness is 10 gauge :gunsmile:

sycoglitch

I gave up caring what droid feels like changing these words too. Every like i type "im" it changes it to headlights"important". :sigh: my ipod types better and chooses words better

salad

To fix what sycoglitch wrote and expand upon 94XjSport94...

The stock headlight wiring is of an incredibly short-sighted design made for ease of installation and low cost. The power flows from the battery, to the junction block, to the headlight switch, to the lamps over measly 18 AWG wire. The tiny wire and long length means that there's an unavoidable drop in voltage: about 5% for stock low beams, up to 15% for high beams or bright aftermarket lights. Just from how tiny the wire is. Now take 13-25 years of rain and salt exposure that adds corrosion, which increases resistance and drives up overall current; and 13-25 years of vibration, which inevitably results in a few broken strands in the wire, increasing resistance and driving up current. It's not uncommon for a voltage drop of 20% or more at the headlight sockets of an aged XJ. Aside from being incredibly dim, the power requirements go way up as resistance increases. The next weakest point in the system is the headlight switch: It, like most switches, is built with smaller conductors and favors a compact size over heat performance. With 40A or more going through this thing from all lighting on the vehicle (can you say "single point of failure") it's no surprise that if they don't outright melt, heat cycling causes failure.

A proper harness moves the biggest load off of the switch to a relay-driven circuit on heavy gauge wire. A short run directly from the battery is ideal. The stock wiring is then used only as a means of controlling the relays, which is about a 500 mA load, compared to the previous 10-20. The lamps get way more current available with almost no loss, and a substantial load is removed from ancient wiring and a critical switch.

92sw

Is that a bolt on deal? Like just wire it up or is it new plugs and the whole shabang. My lights are original I think lol and I was just gonna get new ones but if this is the better route maybe ill start there first.

salad

100% "bolt-on" (no actual bolts) and reversible.

92sw

What do u mean by reversible?

Houston Kid

Here you go. Plug and play, then wiring the relays then deciding where to mount the relays. I added the inline fuses just in case.

salad

You can take it out...? What do you think I mean lol

92sw

Honestly no clue lol. But thanx for the info my lights blow so I'm gonna get that harness and upgrade to the h4 so I can see again.

bulrid8

Very easy to make your own harness too.

salad

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/headlight-upgrades-151217/

This is true too: http://jeep-xj.info/HowtoHeadlightLoom.htm

In my case the H4 connectors alone cost as much as an entire harness shipped to my door. :|

92sw

Thanx!