Alpha 1-4

Did a tire rotation, brake inspection and topped the oil off.

kgm

Installed my tattoo driveshaft. It's still a slip yoke end, but with a double cardan built into it. It reduced my vibes by probably 75%. I still need to point my pinion up with some axle shims but I'm lazy and don't want to do that. Might have a shop do it, it couldn't be very much money.

salad

wat

Pics?

Lowrange2

I sure hope it doesn't have a slip joint in the shaft too.

sycoglitch

Maybe the cv style with the boot in the middle

kgm

No, it retains the regular style and a main solid axle between the 2..errm 3 joints. I really didn't want to mess with angle grinding my output shaft, and it seems to have worked pretty well. I know dudes will probably give me flack for it. If I ever get super serious off-road stuff on this I'd probably still go to a fixed yoke but this is primarily a pavement pounder that I want to build up to be able to rally a bit on some dirt roads with 30 or 31" tires.







Current pinion angle, which clearly needs some shimming.

No4x4Yet

Any pic of the light it projects??

That shaft looks expensive!!

sycoglitch

I have a feeling a hack and tack and rebuilt JY DS together at $225 is alot less than that

kgm

It was $275 shipped...which was part of the reason I went with it. After the cost of the SYE, junkyard shaft, u joints, and picking up the tap kit, and dealing with rolling around in my **** covered parking spot, I figured I'd rather pay the extra $50. I also don't have an angle grinder, so I'd have to grab one of those, and it's winter so its cold as **** constantly.

I am going to replace my trans mount before shimming my axle, as I think the mount is pretty blown out. Think there will be any negative effects of having the big cardan joint on the full length output shaft? I sent Tatton a measurement for my yoke center to output shaft end, so there is a good amount of engagement but still plenty of movement before bottoming out on the output shaft.

95Cherokee

Here's a link to RRO shims.

http://www.rocky-road.com/jeep-chero...ft-blocks.html

salad

Ohhhhh you have an NP242!

Interesting solution.

kgm

Ha ha, that I do. We will see how it works in the long run.

For science!

sycoglitch

Apparently they fit the 231 also. Im just curious if the longer shaft is an issue. At least with a hack n tap you shorten the shaft. I wonder if this can damage anything. Looks promising if it lasts you a month, then i might try it out

kgm

If I was building a big offroad rig I probably wouldn't go this way but I think it'll work for what I'm doing. The one thing I know I'll run into is that with the SYE you extend the functional driveshaft length so you don't need to shim the rear axle as much, but I will have to point it higher since the end of the output shaft is closer to the pinion. Still pretty happy I didn't have to mess with an angle grinder while the motor was on. I found some reviews for this item on jeepforum or somewhere and it seemed to be working for the people who had it. I imagine some of the strength of the SYE is that it can't yank off the slip yoke the way this could, but I'm not really doing to be going crazy with 4 wheeling. If I was, I'd do the middle shaft slip with a huge amount of engagement / slip. I just need to be able to take the dirt roads in the mountains sometimes and not shake my dashboard apart in the mean time

sycoglitch

Def keep us posted. I was gonna do a hack and tap. Im not gonna run larger than 33s for at least 2 years. Can't regear yet