So, today...the final culmination of all of my work over the last 3 weeks. I will call this the XJ...Front End Hardware List.


176,865 miles.

 

A few more.


Core 4x4 control arms, Synergey ball joints, napa chassis parts front axle u-joints. Rubicon Express Dampeners. Daystar endlink bushings. Napa premium chassis parts front hubs.


All pivots have Zerks. The rear has a 3.5 lift and "Boomerange Shackles" 5.25 lift over stock.

 

one more

 

Put a can of 134 refrigerant from walmart into her. Got a leak somewhere in the system. Every year gotta fill her up. Least it works for now

 

A little disappointed in the results from "what I did to my Cherokee today", finally got around to changing the water pump that I was CERTAIN of it causing me cooling problems. Driving on the highways (55mph or +) or very hot days my Jeep would run hotter than the scalding 210°, I had already replaced the T-stat with no better results and I'm fairly sure it's not a head gasket. Anyway, the old pump propeller looked fairly ok but did have a little more clearance between the props & pump, and looking inside it looked like the rubber o ring was cocked so I'd hoped this would solve my issues. Well, mid 50's today and it did run cooler for a while THEN about a hour later the temp gauge showed (approx guesstimate here) 213-215°. Point is, New pump, cooler temp and the needle sits slightly above 210°. No big deal you might say, but now I'm concerned that when it does get hot out its not fixed and somehow worse? The system is clean. Flushed it out a few months back when I changed the t-stat & without going into great detail, using that CLR stuff. Did a tremendous job. Anyway, I'm considering upgrading the fan system. I'm old school and this offset mechanical fan with electric helper fan seems inefficient. Thinking of running a dual electric fan with a pre-set temperature actuator switch.

 

Have you tried replacing the mechanical fan clutch? It's a normal wear item, you can even upgrade to a ZJ heavy duty fan clutch that pulls Wayy more air than stock. The factory system works when everything is in working order. If you continue to rum hot do a compression test and cylinder leak down to verify the head gasket isn't bad.

 

You won't know until it actually gets hot. 213º-215º is within the normal range (regardless of ambient temperature). The real test is whether your cooling system can maintain that. The only way you'll know is to wait for a hot day although if it will idle for 20 minutes and remain under 120º you're probably in good shape.

I agree with the fan clutch recommendation. Keep in mind, the fan clutch is less effective with the hood open because it relies on engine compartment temperature to engage.

 

Amen to that. Same situation here.

 

With a slow leak like that you could get a can of easy seal(sold at most ac and refrigeration suppliers). Its designed for 1.5-5 ton units. Just put about half the can in your system and you will be fine. Make sure you get the kind for R12/R134A. It will blow those other "leak stops" out of the water. It reacts with oxygen and forms a seal. Good stuff. Usually about $30 for a can

 

Tooker out to the beach in my new home in NorCal.

 

My dad said the same thing. Said its better than the leak sealing the small cans say they do

 

I'll have to keep that inind if mine ever gets beyond the can a year leak.

 

Where can you get the 1.5-5 ton Easy Seal for $30.00? Cheapest I can find is $50.00.

 

Ordered a new oil pan and felpro one piece gasket so I can cure the only oil leak before our first camping trip in two weeks.

 

Started to wet sand , buff, compound, wax it. Then my wife reminded me I have to goto church.

I really don't have the time to do the church thing it cuts into my Jeep repair / wheeling time.