What did you do to your Cherokee today?
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,438
Likes: 8
From: Georgia
Year: 99 94
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: I6
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,843
Likes: 2
From: Ross Vegas, Ga
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 w/ tupy head
Drove around 300 miles roundtrip to Boston and back this morning. Pulled in the driveway and noticed my mileage. Cringed a bit thinking about nearing the 200k mark.
Attachment 243391
Attachment 243391
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
There's a good purpose for brake light kill switches that won't be discussed on CF due the level of respect we all give police officers as well as the site rules about discussing illegal topics.
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 3,004
Likes: 1
From: Wilmington,NC
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 908
Likes: 1
From: SIERRA VISTA AZ
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 6 CYL
Upper balljoints are the same for d 30 and d44 in tj,zj,xj,mj's and wj's. There are write ups on change to wj lowers which are a little diff. I have done two of this conversions and going to do a third. The only diff is the wj stud is a little longer as the knuckle has a little material on the bottom.
If you torque to proper spec they seat the same. Only issue is if you run a washer under the castle nut the hole if partly blocked so only half the cotter pin will fit. Not that big of a deal.
Go to a parts store and check it out.
If you need to replace anyway then not a bad idea at all to use the wj ones.
If you torque to proper spec they seat the same. Only issue is if you run a washer under the castle nut the hole if partly blocked so only half the cotter pin will fit. Not that big of a deal.
Go to a parts store and check it out.
If you need to replace anyway then not a bad idea at all to use the wj ones.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,994
Likes: 7
From: San Jose
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,458
Likes: 2
From: Glendale,Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
I've done it before, here's my take.
Get the steering out of the way, removing the drag link from the Pittman arm would be ideal, and get as much separation between the axle and the unibody so you can get the oil pan in and out without having to worry about hitting much. You will also probably want to be able to slide yourself under the front axle for ease of gasket scraping, which took me 4 hours to do. Get the rubber one piece gasket from felpro, and good luck lining it all up for final install. Many people recommend very little rtv on the gasket, in the corners near something or other idk ask cruiser.
I jacked mine up right behind the LCA's and didnt have any issues with the pan clearing.
Thanks for the compliment. There was a couple reasons I didn't end up making relocators though. I wanted to gain zero lift whatsoever and I like the idea of getting the sheet metal out of the way where the stock shackle box is and using these smaller stronger hangers. Relocators would be a lot easier to make and mount but these will just do what I want a little better. Plus now I can make new shackles too :headbang2:
Herp Derp Jerp
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 13
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II