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What did you do to your Cherokee today?

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Old 07-19-2014, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
Rubbing alcohol will remove glue residue left behind on glass.
I just used my steamer, I steamed parts of the glass and scraped off the glue that way, it comes off really easy I barely had any glue to worry about when I used the steamer
Old 07-19-2014, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Bluelight
I'll have to try the steamer thing. My '95 has tint film that I want gone. My '99 has the factory deep tint where the smoke is actually in the glass itself and it looks good. The '95 had that dumb purple film that some PO put in, and it was a DIY job so it's wrinkly and peeling apart.
The steamer will take your tint off real easily especially of it's bubbling that means you have less glue to heat up! But depending on how tall you are for me it was tedious getting the tint off the two back windows! Couldn't sit up straight back there hahah
Old 07-19-2014, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Chuck82
The steamer will take your tint off real easily especially of it's bubbling that means you have less glue to heat up! But depending on how tall you are for me it was tedious getting the tint off the two back windows! Couldn't sit up straight back there hahah
See being shorter, 5'8", has its advantages. Us short people can always get a ladder to get to the places we can't reach. You tall people will never comfortably fit into tighter spots
Old 07-19-2014, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Chuck82

Hahaha you're not alone! It just feels weird having people being able to see in
I know what you mean. The factory tint on my '91 Limited is really dark, you've gotta get really close to see anything on the inside. And I still have the factory sunscreen/tinted windshield glass, and its so nice to have on sunny days!
Old 07-19-2014, 12:57 PM
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With out noticing until I was leaving, I parked next to two other XJs.
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Old 07-19-2014, 02:38 PM
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I just bumped the stud for the xmember and the whole thing ripped off. Hahahaha
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Old 07-19-2014, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by salad
I just bumped the stud for the xmember and the whole thing ripped off. Hahahaha
Wtf, canadia has more rust than us lol :-P
Old 07-19-2014, 04:51 PM
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Only in certain provinces, Ontario being about the worst. I guess that salting cost less than plowing. Sometimes in the winter the roads are white and it is not from snow
Old 07-19-2014, 05:11 PM
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I call BS. The trucks are driving around anyway. Putting the plows down is free - salt isn't. And I don't buy the argument about plows damaging the road surface, either: frost heave does enough.

Big problem is noone here can drive in snow and most cars have nearly-bald all-seasons.

Hey SGMason a buddy of mine from Mallorytown was telling me that magnesium chloride was starting to show up quite a lot in well water tests out there. Might be horse**** but got me thinkin'...



I guess to keep this post on topic I've removed the transmission crossmember and drive shafts, and found a fair bit of rot in the passenger side frame too. Currently evaluating buying a non-running body and plunking my goodies into it.
Old 07-19-2014, 05:27 PM
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Sounds like you're finding a lot of rot salad. My 91 is bad but I don't think its that bad. Worst part being around the driver side leaf hanger which is the only structural part rusted and I don't know to what extent. You might be better off getting a better one to start with.

On topic, I got my MC/booster attached, new lines to prop valve ran. Got my sister to come help bleed and I couldn't get pressure at the bleeder ports if anyone has advice please see the ask a question thread. Lol.
Old 07-19-2014, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by DieselD
Sounds like you're finding a lot of rot salad. My 91 is bad but I don't think its that bad. Worst part being around the driver side leaf hanger which is the only structural part rusted and I don't know to what extent. You might be better off getting a better one to start with.

On topic, I got my MC/booster attached, new lines to prop valve ran. Got my sister to come help bleed and I couldn't get pressure at the bleeder ports if anyone has advice please see the ask a question thread. Lol.
Bench bleed the master?
Old 07-19-2014, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

Bench bleed the master?
Nope, I didn't think I had to since I pulled it the combo from my parts jeep. BUT I was thinking about it and while I was getting the booster arm on the pedal I pumped it, it had the brake lines disconnected so I'm assuming I could've got air I'm the MC from that.

I was googling and apparently air in the MC can stop fluid from flowing.
Old 07-19-2014, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by DieselD
Nope, I didn't think I had to since I pulled it the combo from my parts jeep. BUT I was thinking about it and while I was getting the booster arm on the pedal I pumped it, it had the brake lines disconnected so I'm assuming I could've got air I'm the MC from that.

I was googling and apparently air in the MC can stop fluid from flowing.
Bleed the master.............
Old 07-19-2014, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

Bleed the master.............
Will do that tomorrow if I can get the right fittings. I don't have anything to clamp it down with. No bench vise or anything to hold it level.

What are my odds of properly bleeding the MC on the jeep? I read it needs to be level, could I just jack up the back of the jeep?
Old 07-19-2014, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by DieselD
Will do that tomorrow if I can get the right fittings. I don't have anything to clamp it down with. No bench vise or anything to hold it level.

What are my odds of properly bleeding the MC on the jeep? I read it needs to be level, could I just jack up the back of the jeep?
Do it in the vehicle by cracking the lines at the MC. Catch the fluid with a rag.


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