What did you do to your Cherokee today?
04-01-2015, 01:29 PM
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Location: Ross Vegas, Ga
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 w/ tupy head
Well darn, I went to get started on the front axle u-joints today and found out that I don't have the proper tools. Then to make things worse my normal source for tools I don't have, aka my brother, didn't have them either
Now I have to go buy the tools I need tomorrow and wait till Friday to do the u joints in the front axles. Oh well it gives all the fasteners another day or two of being hit with penetrating oil.
Now I have to go buy the tools I need tomorrow and wait till Friday to do the u joints in the front axles. Oh well it gives all the fasteners another day or two of being hit with penetrating oil.
You don't need special tools just pull the axle/hub assembly and all out and beat them out and use sockets and a hammer to put them back in , unless you are going to go full circle clips. I had to buy a dremel .
04-01-2015, 01:41 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Metro Detroit
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Two days ago, but still recent. I knew my MC was on its way out, very inconsistent pressure at the pedal and some hairy stops (I know, bad me, bad me). Monday morning, when I backed into my spot in the garage at work, I saw smoke coming out of the right front wheel well. Popped down under the front end and noticed what looked like molten rubber coming down the backing plate.
Left work early to go do the pads in my uncle's driveway. Pulled the wheels off and saw almost no friction material on the pads and the corrosion on the rotors was a bright red like it had been cooked to death. Went and bought pads and rotors and went to compress the caliper only to find out that not just one, but both sides had seized. Ran BACK to the parts store and picked up calipers... Went to gravity bleed them, and nothing was coming out, crap. Closed the bleeders and pumped the pedal to see if I could put a little pressure on the system, but it kept going straight to the floor. Back to the store AGAIN to pick up a new MC. Got there right at closing time, came back, rolled the jeep into the garage since it was now cold and dark, and bench bled the new MC.
Popped the MC on and cracked the bleeders to gravity bleed again, still nothing, couldnt put pressure on the system..... Hmmmmmmm.... Then I realized that I had flip flopped the calipers and had them on the wrong sides. D'OH! So around midnight I finally had everything buttoned up and ready to go... She stops like a dream and I no longer feel like I'm fighting it after 20+ minutes of driving!
In typical Jeep repair fashion, I found out that my right side u-joint is on its way out... Always something innit?
Left work early to go do the pads in my uncle's driveway. Pulled the wheels off and saw almost no friction material on the pads and the corrosion on the rotors was a bright red like it had been cooked to death. Went and bought pads and rotors and went to compress the caliper only to find out that not just one, but both sides had seized. Ran BACK to the parts store and picked up calipers... Went to gravity bleed them, and nothing was coming out, crap. Closed the bleeders and pumped the pedal to see if I could put a little pressure on the system, but it kept going straight to the floor. Back to the store AGAIN to pick up a new MC. Got there right at closing time, came back, rolled the jeep into the garage since it was now cold and dark, and bench bled the new MC.
Popped the MC on and cracked the bleeders to gravity bleed again, still nothing, couldnt put pressure on the system..... Hmmmmmmm.... Then I realized that I had flip flopped the calipers and had them on the wrong sides. D'OH! So around midnight I finally had everything buttoned up and ready to go... She stops like a dream and I no longer feel like I'm fighting it after 20+ minutes of driving!
In typical Jeep repair fashion, I found out that my right side u-joint is on its way out... Always something innit?
04-01-2015, 03:59 PM
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Special tools are any tools that I don't have
I thought my external torx set went big enough to cover the hub bolts, but it doesn't and I have always avoided buying 12 point sockets so I can't use that either. Also my biggest socket is a 1", and I measure about a 36mm for the axle nut
I thought my external torx set went big enough to cover the hub bolts, but it doesn't and I have always avoided buying 12 point sockets so I can't use that either. Also my biggest socket is a 1", and I measure about a 36mm for the axle nut
04-01-2015, 04:13 PM
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
Special tools are any tools that I don't have I thought my external torx set went big enough to cover the hub bolts, but it doesn't and I have always avoided buying 12 point sockets so I can't use that either. Also my biggest socket is a 1", and I measure about a 36mm for the axle nut
I thought my external torx set went big enough to cover the hub bolts, but it doesn't and I have always avoided buying 12 point sockets so I can't use that either. Also my biggest socket is a 1", and I measure about a 36mm for the axle nut
04-01-2015, 05:00 PM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
1999 Jeep Cherokee replaced alternator
I was on an appointment in Coral Springs Fl when I noticed the A/C fan motor fluctuating up and down. I also noticed the "check gauge" light had just come on. I saw that the amp gauge was sitting on "9". Should have been "0" but its not calibrated for that. I drove 10 miles to get to the Sears Automotive Store to check my Diehard Gold Battery first. Tech tested it and said it had a bad cell. New fresh battery $1.59 (under 3 year free replacement)! Cranked just fine and than I saw the amp gauge was on "11" volts and then in about a mile of driving it fell down to "9" again. Alternator was defective. Called around and only Advance Auto had it. $164.99 w/o core. $32.99 with core exchange. 117 AMP unit! I hit Google for any discount coupons and found WD513 discount code! I ordered the alt online for store pickup and entered the code. It deducted $47!! Installed the new alt in 30 minutes & I'm on the road again! I brought the core back for a refund today. Net cost for a lifetime alt with tax $88. I love the internet. This discount code is for anything that costs over $75 and its good through April 4!
04-01-2015, 10:15 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Buffalo NY
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Year: 2000 shell
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1998 4.0l I6
I was on an appointment in Coral Springs Fl when I noticed the A/C fan motor fluctuating up and down. I also noticed the "check gauge" light had just come on. I saw that the amp gauge was sitting on "9". Should have been "0" but its not calibrated for that. I drove 10 miles to get to the Sears Automotive Store to check my Diehard Gold Battery first. Tech tested it and said it had a bad cell. New fresh battery $1.59 (under 3 year free replacement)! Cranked just fine and than I saw the amp gauge was on "11" volts and then in about a mile of driving it fell down to "9" again. Alternator was defective. Called around and only Advance Auto had it. $164.99 w/o core. $32.99 with core exchange. 117 AMP unit! I hit Google for any discount coupons and found WD513 discount code! I ordered the alt online for store pickup and entered the code. It deducted $47!! Installed the new alt in 30 minutes & I'm on the road again! I brought the core back for a refund today. Net cost for a lifetime alt with tax $88. I love the internet. This discount code is for anything that costs over $75 and its good through April 4!
04-02-2015, 08:36 AM
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Join Date: May 2014
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You don't need special tools just pull the axle/hub assembly and all out and beat them out and use sockets and a hammer to put them back in , unless you are going to go full circle clips. I had to buy a dremel .
How To Replace Jeep U-Joints Front Axle Dana 30 / 44 - YouTube
How To Replace Jeep U-Joints Front Axle Dana 30 / 44 - YouTube
I actually do have the tool to remove and install the u-joints. The "special tool" comment was a joke about me not having the tools I needed to do the job I wanted to do
It is kind of funny because I actually do have a fair number of true specialty tools, I even have a timing belt tension tool for a Mitsubishi 6G72 DOHC engine
I was going to run out and buy the tools I sockets I needed this morning, but woke up to ice rain so the project has been put on hold till I can get the two sockets.
04-02-2015, 11:09 AM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 w/ tupy head
Umm you missed the point, I can't pull the axles because I don't have a 12 point 13 mm or a 36 mm socket to pull the axles out of the housing I actually do have the tool to remove and install the u-joints. The "special tool" comment was a joke about me not having the tools I needed to do the job I wanted to do
It is kind of funny because I actually do have a fair number of true specialty tools, I even have a timing belt tension tool for a Mitsubishi 6G72 DOHC engine
I was going to run out and buy the tools I sockets I needed this morning, but woke up to ice rain so the project has been put on hold till I can get the two sockets.
I actually do have the tool to remove and install the u-joints. The "special tool" comment was a joke about me not having the tools I needed to do the job I wanted to doIt is kind of funny because I actually do have a fair number of true specialty tools, I even have a timing belt tension tool for a Mitsubishi 6G72 DOHC engine
I was going to run out and buy the tools I sockets I needed this morning, but woke up to ice rain so the project has been put on hold till I can get the two sockets.
04-02-2015, 11:16 AM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 w/ tupy head
I can't pull the axles because I don't have a 12 point 13 mm or a 36 mm socket to pull the axles out of the housing
And I just leave the hub on the axle (36mm) and pull the whole hub/axle so you don't need to torque that axle nut to spec.
And I just leave the hub on the axle (36mm) and pull the whole hub/axle so you don't need to torque that axle nut to spec.