What did you do to your Cherokee today?
04-02-2015, 09:00 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Harrisburg, Pennsylvania
Posts: 918
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
04-02-2015, 09:03 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: whiting
Posts: 1,414
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
04-02-2015, 10:15 PM
CF Veteran
And there on sale now too, $50 ($40 with coupon): http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...nch-68099.html
They also have a cordless version for $120 ($100 with coupon) if you don't have access to 120V where your Jeep is: http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...nch-60380.html
They also have a cordless version for $120 ($100 with coupon) if you don't have access to 120V where your Jeep is: http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...nch-60380.html
04-02-2015, 10:57 PM
Moderator of Jeeps
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
04-03-2015, 12:17 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Iroquois Ontario Canada
Posts: 946
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Well after much fighting cursing and swearing I managed to get the drivers side axle off and the u-joint changed. Once I had the tools I only had 2 stumbling blocks. First was the rear and top hub bolts, the 12 point 13mm ones. Well mine were not 13 mm, they were round. Not sure if it was due to rust or the PO used vise grips on them at some time, but I doubt it was the later. Yet again if he did try vise grips and failed to get them off it might explain why the u-joint was so bad
I ended up using a stripped bolt extractor to get those two out, the front one required only hammering on a 12mm 12 point. Once I was able to get a bit of torque one them they came out fairly quickly.
The next stumbling block was the u-joint clips, they were rusted in place. I knew the DS was really bad just from the noise it made when turning, but the amount of play in it was scary. When I finally did get the clips off and pressed out the cups, only one had anything resembling needle bearings and they were flattened out and heat welded together. By the time I finished up it was too late to take pictures of it, but I saved the cup with the bearings in it and the actual worn out joint so I could take some pictures of it in good light.
Now the problem I get to look forward to in the morning is trying to figure out a way to get two round headed bolts up to 75 ft/lbs. The extractor only works one way so it is out of the question. everything is closed for the Easter weekend tomorrow so I can't just go out and buy new ones
, not to mention it is hard to drive with only 3 wheels
The way I see it I can grind some flats into the stripped heads and get them up to proper torque using a crows foot, or I could try getting the head red hot and pounding a 12 mm 12 point on to them, but I don't know if that would hold the torque. Either way it is a temporary fix so I can actually get to some place that would have replacement bolts.
Tomorrow round two, I tackle the passenger side. The u-joint feels OK, but if the drivers side was that bad I don't trust leaving that one in.
I ended up using a stripped bolt extractor to get those two out, the front one required only hammering on a 12mm 12 point. Once I was able to get a bit of torque one them they came out fairly quickly.The next stumbling block was the u-joint clips, they were rusted in place. I knew the DS was really bad just from the noise it made when turning, but the amount of play in it was scary. When I finally did get the clips off and pressed out the cups, only one had anything resembling needle bearings and they were flattened out and heat welded together. By the time I finished up it was too late to take pictures of it, but I saved the cup with the bearings in it and the actual worn out joint so I could take some pictures of it in good light.
Now the problem I get to look forward to in the morning is trying to figure out a way to get two round headed bolts up to 75 ft/lbs. The extractor only works one way so it is out of the question. everything is closed for the Easter weekend tomorrow so I can't just go out and buy new ones
, not to mention it is hard to drive with only 3 wheels The way I see it I can grind some flats into the stripped heads and get them up to proper torque using a crows foot, or I could try getting the head red hot and pounding a 12 mm 12 point on to them, but I don't know if that would hold the torque. Either way it is a temporary fix so I can actually get to some place that would have replacement bolts.Tomorrow round two, I tackle the passenger side. The u-joint feels OK, but if the drivers side was that bad I don't trust leaving that one in.
04-03-2015, 12:28 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Gainesville,FL
Posts: 989
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Well after much fighting cursing and swearing I managed to get the drivers side axle off and the u-joint changed. Once I had the tools I only had 2 stumbling blocks. First was the rear and top hub bolts, the 12 point 13mm ones. Well mine were not 13 mm, they were round. Not sure if it was due to rust or the PO used vise grips on them at some time, but I doubt it was the later. Yet again if he did try vise grips and failed to get them off it might explain why the u-joint was so bad I ended up using a stripped bolt extractor to get those two out, the front one required only hammering on a 12mm 12 point. Once I was able to get a bit of torque one them they came out fairly quickly.
The next stumbling block was the u-joint clips, they were rusted in place. I knew the DS was really bad just from the noise it made when turning, but the amount of play in it was scary. When I finally did get the clips off and pressed out the cups, only one had anything resembling needle bearings and they were flattened out and heat welded together. By the time I finished up it was too late to take pictures of it, but I saved the cup with the bearings in it and the actual worn out joint so I could take some pictures of it in good light.
Now the problem I get to look forward to in the morning is trying to figure out a way to get two round headed bolts up to 75 ft/lbs. The extractor only works one way so it is out of the question. everything is closed for the Easter weekend tomorrow so I can't just go out and buy new ones, not to mention it is hard to drive with only 3 wheels The way I see it I can grind some flats into the stripped heads and get them up to proper torque using a crows foot, or I could try getting the head red hot and pounding a 12 mm 12 point on to them, but I don't know if that would hold the torque. Either way it is a temporary fix so I can actually get to some place that would have replacement bolts.
Tomorrow round two, I tackle the passenger side. The u-joint feels OK, but if the drivers side was that bad I don't trust leaving that one in.
I ended up using a stripped bolt extractor to get those two out, the front one required only hammering on a 12mm 12 point. Once I was able to get a bit of torque one them they came out fairly quickly.The next stumbling block was the u-joint clips, they were rusted in place. I knew the DS was really bad just from the noise it made when turning, but the amount of play in it was scary. When I finally did get the clips off and pressed out the cups, only one had anything resembling needle bearings and they were flattened out and heat welded together. By the time I finished up it was too late to take pictures of it, but I saved the cup with the bearings in it and the actual worn out joint so I could take some pictures of it in good light.
Now the problem I get to look forward to in the morning is trying to figure out a way to get two round headed bolts up to 75 ft/lbs. The extractor only works one way so it is out of the question. everything is closed for the Easter weekend tomorrow so I can't just go out and buy new ones
, not to mention it is hard to drive with only 3 wheels The way I see it I can grind some flats into the stripped heads and get them up to proper torque using a crows foot, or I could try getting the head red hot and pounding a 12 mm 12 point on to them, but I don't know if that would hold the torque. Either way it is a temporary fix so I can actually get to some place that would have replacement bolts.Tomorrow round two, I tackle the passenger side. The u-joint feels OK, but if the drivers side was that bad I don't trust leaving that one in.
Damn man!!! Well you know to check out the bolts next incase you need to buy replacements before removal. I'm in the midst or literally replacing on my Jeep suspension wise and in doing so I'm getting bolts for almost everything so i know they aren't rounded or deformed in any manner. I'm also applying anti seize to any bolt that needs and loctite to the others. I really hope you can get this squared away. Sorry to hear everything is closed and it's not sunday... even then here in the states the part stores are open sunday
04-03-2015, 12:34 AM
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Muncie, Indiana
Posts: 464
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Took my bumpers off so I can sand blast them tomorrow and get them powder coated the first of the week....all for free! 
04-03-2015, 01:23 AM
No, I don't lick fish.
I was on an appointment in Coral Springs Fl when I noticed the A/C fan motor fluctuating up and down. I also noticed the "check gauge" light had just come on. I saw that the amp gauge was sitting on "9". Should have been "0" but its not calibrated for that. I drove 10 miles to get to the Sears Automotive Store to check my Diehard Gold Battery first. Tech tested it and said it had a bad cell. New fresh battery $1.59 (under 3 year free replacement)! Cranked just fine and than I saw the amp gauge was on "11" volts and then in about a mile of driving it fell down to "9" again. Alternator was defective. Called around and only Advance Auto had it. $164.99 w/o core. $32.99 with core exchange. 117 AMP unit! I hit Google for any discount coupons and found WD513 discount code! I ordered the alt online for store pickup and entered the code. It deducted $47!! Installed the new alt in 30 minutes & I'm on the road again! I brought the core back for a refund today. Net cost for a lifetime alt with tax $88. I love the internet. This discount code is for anything that costs over $75 and its good through April 4!
That's my hometown!
Good job on the parts pricing man!
I hate you.
04-03-2015, 07:27 AM
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes
on
12 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Well after much fighting cursing and swearing I managed to get the drivers side axle off and the u-joint changed. Once I had the tools I only had 2 stumbling blocks. First was the rear and top hub bolts, the 12 point 13mm ones. Well mine were not 13 mm, they were round. Not sure if it was due to rust or the PO used vise grips on them at some time, but I doubt it was the later. Yet again if he did try vise grips and failed to get them off it might explain why the u-joint was so bad I ended up using a stripped bolt extractor to get those two out, the front one required only hammering on a 12mm 12 point. Once I was able to get a bit of torque one them they came out fairly quickly.
The next stumbling block was the u-joint clips, they were rusted in place. I knew the DS was really bad just from the noise it made when turning, but the amount of play in it was scary. When I finally did get the clips off and pressed out the cups, only one had anything resembling needle bearings and they were flattened out and heat welded together. By the time I finished up it was too late to take pictures of it, but I saved the cup with the bearings in it and the actual worn out joint so I could take some pictures of it in good light.
Now the problem I get to look forward to in the morning is trying to figure out a way to get two round headed bolts up to 75 ft/lbs. The extractor only works one way so it is out of the question. everything is closed for the Easter weekend tomorrow so I can't just go out and buy new ones, not to mention it is hard to drive with only 3 wheels The way I see it I can grind some flats into the stripped heads and get them up to proper torque using a crows foot, or I could try getting the head red hot and pounding a 12 mm 12 point on to them, but I don't know if that would hold the torque. Either way it is a temporary fix so I can actually get to some place that would have replacement bolts.
Tomorrow round two, I tackle the passenger side. The u-joint feels OK, but if the drivers side was that bad I don't trust leaving that one in.
I ended up using a stripped bolt extractor to get those two out, the front one required only hammering on a 12mm 12 point. Once I was able to get a bit of torque one them they came out fairly quickly.The next stumbling block was the u-joint clips, they were rusted in place. I knew the DS was really bad just from the noise it made when turning, but the amount of play in it was scary. When I finally did get the clips off and pressed out the cups, only one had anything resembling needle bearings and they were flattened out and heat welded together. By the time I finished up it was too late to take pictures of it, but I saved the cup with the bearings in it and the actual worn out joint so I could take some pictures of it in good light.
Now the problem I get to look forward to in the morning is trying to figure out a way to get two round headed bolts up to 75 ft/lbs. The extractor only works one way so it is out of the question. everything is closed for the Easter weekend tomorrow so I can't just go out and buy new ones
, not to mention it is hard to drive with only 3 wheels The way I see it I can grind some flats into the stripped heads and get them up to proper torque using a crows foot, or I could try getting the head red hot and pounding a 12 mm 12 point on to them, but I don't know if that would hold the torque. Either way it is a temporary fix so I can actually get to some place that would have replacement bolts.Tomorrow round two, I tackle the passenger side. The u-joint feels OK, but if the drivers side was that bad I don't trust leaving that one in.
For replacements you definitely don't want to pop over to a dealership unless you know someone. Kingston Dodge charged me $18 for a single screw! Fastenal gave me a box of 10 and a bag of washers for $20-something. Same material and thread spec, only difference is the flange head (washers are same hardness) and they're annoying internal hex Allen bolts instead of something sane. Still, better than the dealer's overpriced Round-O-Matic.
Wow. That looks great!
04-03-2015, 09:34 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Iroquois Ontario Canada
Posts: 946
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
That sounds familiar, but I was only lucky enough to need to hammer on the 12mm once, rest came off with the 13mm.
For replacements you definitely don't want to pop over to a dealership unless you know someone. Kingston Dodge charged me $18 for a single screw! Fastenal gave me a box of 10 and a bag of washers for $20-something. Same material and thread spec, only difference is the flange head (washers are same hardness) and they're annoying internal hex Allen bolts instead of something sane. Still, better than the dealer's overpriced Round-O-Matic.
For replacements you definitely don't want to pop over to a dealership unless you know someone. Kingston Dodge charged me $18 for a single screw! Fastenal gave me a box of 10 and a bag of washers for $20-something. Same material and thread spec, only difference is the flange head (washers are same hardness) and they're annoying internal hex Allen bolts instead of something sane. Still, better than the dealer's overpriced Round-O-Matic.
I ended up heating the heads of the rounded bolts and making them 12 mm 12 point. That part took longer than putting everything back together. It is a real pain getting set up to heat only the head of a bolt to cherry red and keeping the rest of it cool enough to touch, but I did it 3 times
The resized heads took torque no problem so I think I am good till I can order in some bolts from Morris 4x4. they have both OEM for $5 each and Crown replacements for $4 each. I gave the bolts a healthy coating of no seize so when the time comes they should come out easy enough.