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If you get q Bluetooth head unit no wires to run. That's what I did
The way I have the phone set up is so that it starts up the music when power is going to it and it's plugged in, and when the Jeep is turned off the iPhone shuts off too so that it saves battery. Might set it up to go to airplane mode to save time
Any CB knowledgeable people here? My CB worked great when it was in the dash wired to the radio harness for constant and key on power, but since I pulled that out and wired it up from the battery with a t tap for key on power, I get nothing but static even with squelch turned to max. I checked the antenna wire for a short and tested the mount for a good solid ground and those are good. Is there a rule for wiring to power and ground?
Generally, power direct to battery and ground less than 18" long to the chassis. There shouldn't be any vampire clips in a clean CB install
A man in a big, brown windowless van pulled up today and said he had candy & Jeep parts in the back, but I had to help him get them out. There was no candy... still worth it.
Not shown, track bar which came FedEx. I didn't get in his van. Just need a few more small bits.
Picked it up from the shop. They couldn't do my alignment. 1. Because I have all aftermarlet suspension and theyd charge by the hour and 2. Because I have a loose wheel beaing.
Swapped some size 74 LEDs into my cluster. Just bought these 5 bulbs as a try-out and I think I'm going to finish up and do the climate control and switch panels. Also replaced my courtesy lights, dome light, cargo area light, and map lights with direct swap LEDs. Looks good, and much brighter. Won't be the end of the world if I leave my map light on either.
Picked it up from the shop. They couldn't do my alignment. 1. Because I have all aftermarlet suspension and theyd charge by the hour and 2. Because I have a loose wheel beaing.
Guess I need to order some new hubs...
That aftermarket suspension sounds like a lame excuse to me, unless you don't have adjustable control arms and your castor is way out. The wheel bearing on the other hand is a good excuse. I did both my hubs this summer and front axle u joints at the same time. The PS hub came off with ease, the DS made up for the ease of the other side 10 fold Up here in Canada's salt belt anything on the drivers side is going to to be hell. The mainly salt the middle of the road so that is the side that sees the most salt.
Picked it up from the shop. They couldn't do my alignment. 1. Because I have all aftermarlet suspension and theyd charge by the hour and 2. Because I have a loose wheel beaing.
Guess I need to order some new hubs...
I was about to mention that a shop will charge by the hour to adjust the alignment if you have adjustable control arms. If the arms are fixed than they can still use shims.
The trick is the get a free 'printout' and make the adjustments yourself. Also can compare with your own readings to note differences in your calculations and the shops. Like calibrating.
Swapped some size 74 LEDs into my cluster. Just bought these 5 bulbs as a try-out and I think I'm going to finish up and do the climate control and switch panels. Also replaced my courtesy lights, dome light, cargo area light, and map lights with direct swap LEDs. Looks good, and much brighter. Won't be the end of the world if I leave my map light on either.
10-01-2015, 09:06 PM
Up here in Canada's salt belt anything on the drivers side is going to to be hell. The mainly salt the middle of the road so that is the side that sees the most salt.
