yeah that's what I'm talking about, it only needs to go over the hump and back into the corner. I could swear I saw it back there on something, maybe wrong though. Well if it doesn't fit no biggie, I got options. Might be able to fit the battery in there with it in the way too, I picked up an extra tray and have been looking at options.

 

I think u ll have plenty of room to move it back towards the firewall

 

drove it in 26 degree weather with no rear window in the hatch...chilly

 

Found a rotted frame section right in between the lower control arm mount and the transfer case/transmission cross member. I had ordered some control arm bushings and was under there spraying down the bolts with penetrating oil and I noticed a 1/4" hole that shouldn't be there. After a bit of poking and hammering the hole grew to about the size of a quarter.

I am guessing that by the time I get it all back to good steel I will be looking at a section about the size of a dollar bill from the sound of the frame when I was hitting it. I an going to keep grinding and cutting till I get the good stuff then weld in a piece of 3/16" steel i have left over from the 2x6 rocker conversion. I still have about a 10" chunk of the 2x6 steel tubing and I will just cut it so I have a wrap around cap to go over the hole.

Looks like i will be looking for a new XJ soon so I can just move all my good parts over to a new vehicle

 

that is depressing... I bought my jeep with 180,000 miles and it blew up after 1,000. Then I rebuild it so now it is a beast

 

Finished the washer bottle conversion.



The ECM won't go in the back corner due to the bulkhead connector under the brake booster, however there is plenty of room for a second battery with the ECM out of the way, and I can hang the ECM off the back of the second battery with a piece of sheetmetal, and enough room for a second PDC on the fender wall.

 

are u able to relocate it inside the cab? At least it ll stay dry.

 

Today I installed a new steering damper (stabilizer)...Should have been a 15 minute job but turned into a 2.5 hour job, 90% of which was me trying to find creative ways to pop the bolt out. Ended up hulking out on it and popping it out with a 3 lb. hammer after trying to do it several different ways, which included a pickling fork, a crow bar, and a C clamp to name just a few.

Next up is Sway bar end links and sway bar bushings. Pray for me.

 

Small, but much needed.


The picture really doesn't show just how moldy the old ones are...

 

Finally got my ball joints changed out. Next up- trans mount and sway bar bushings.

 

Look at some of the mounting options in this thread, I plan to do something similar to the Wrangler NW but make it myself and mount it to the stock battery tray. Already measured everything, should fit fine

 

I feel your pain, man.

Spring 2014 I found this while I was underneath hitting the grease zerks:



After ripping up the carpet and beginning floor removal:




What follows may shock and horrify you. This is basically all the metal that remains after a few minutes with a wire brush on my angle grinder. The welded nuts and associated layered sheet metal came off with a screwdriver.





That's the driver's side under my feet. Of special note is the construction of the frame rail up front. The 'inside' is actually sort of a C channel, that's where the brake & fuel lines sit in. Like this:



In my case areas that looked like they just had surface rust were actually rotten right through. You MIGHT be able to KINDA plate it, but, that stuff was only 16ga from the factory. I hope you're really good with a brake and can weld super thin steel.

 

I'm glad I didn't have to deal with that on 4 of my XJs. Lol

 

Lol the surrounds r gone

 

My 4:56 gears are now installed as of Wednesday.



Today, I put on some new center caps on my wheels and painted a set of Lebaron hood vents that are going on my Jeep.