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Drove the XJ at night last night for the first time since installing the blue LEDs and noticed that the temperature gauge is not lit up. That's even visible in the pic I posted previously but I didn't notice, thought it was just the outside lighting since it wasn't completely dark yet...
One thing that's confusing, there are 5 LEDs but 6 gauges?
If there is just one LED on the right side to light up both oil pressure and temperature they'd both be dim if that was out. I'll have to pull the cluster and see what's going on.
I am seriously thinking about just cutting one. I got to thinking what this job would be like on the side of the road or out in the sticks with an almost full tank of fuel! I could see me having to play with a pile of sand under the tank to support it down and back up again. Man would that be a pile of trouble! lol
Look at how pretty that access is! Unfortunately it looks like he installed his with the tank already dropped? I'm going to do it either way just for future issues!
I am seriously thinking about just cutting one. I got to thinking what this job would be like on the side of the road or out in the sticks with an almost full tank of fuel! I could see me having to play with a pile of sand under the tank to support it down and back up again. Man would that be a pile of trouble! lol
Look at how pretty that access is! Unfortunately it looks like he installed his with the tank already dropped? I'm going to do it either way just for future issues!
Easy way to drop the tank- Use a transmission jack...works great
All the years of working on cars and I can tell you a lot of "special" tools are not necessary. If you need more than a pickle fork and hammer to remove a TRE, you got something wrong.
Easy way to drop the tank- Use a transmission jack...works great
Not sure about a Cherokee since I haven't been under one in a while, but we drop them on Wranglers by running a ratchet strap under the tank and around the frame rails. Let the strap out to lower it and crank the handle to raise it back up.
Obviously there's no frame, but I don't know if there's an opening that could be used.
All the years of working on cars and I can tell you a lot of "special" tools are not necessary. If you need more than a pickle fork and hammer to remove a TRE, you got something wrong.
Rust... Rust changes everything
Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Not sure about a Cherokee since I haven't been under one in a while, but we drop them on Wranglers by running a ratchet strap under the tank and around the frame rails. Let the strap out to lower it and crank the handle to raise it back up.
Obviously there's no frame, but I don't know if there's an opening that could be used.
Shock crossmember is welded to the floor so that would have to run from transmission crossmember to the rear bumper
Not sure about a Cherokee since I haven't been under one in a while, but we drop them on Wranglers by running a ratchet strap under the tank and around the frame rails. Let the strap out to lower it and crank the handle to raise it back up.
Obviously there's no frame, but I don't know if there's an opening that could be used.
It's out...on the ground and pump hanging. Ronin is right, a trans jack or shop floor jack is the easiest way but...What if I am not here at the shop with all these fancy tools? The ratchet strap is a great idea! I looked and one could use it front to back utilizing the axle and the bumper to hang it on.
Here's what I did because I am the type to practice here at the shop before having to do something like this out in the sticks and get myself in serious trouble. Even with a little over 3/4 a tank of fuel I was able to use my legs to hold it up, unhook the tank straps, and then gently ease it down onto the ground towards the passenger side first.
I have had to do it like this on other vehicles before and It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. I was a little concerned because I figured it weighed about 155 Lbs or more as full as it was. Not sure I want to try putting it back up like this unless I absolutely have to. lol
Now I am in real need of a diagram or image showing the pump housing assembly apart so that I don't break things trying to take it apart and put the pump in. I figured out how the housing comes apart. The three flat plastic fingers that come down into the aluminum can from the top assembly are hooked on barbs in the can. All three fingers have to be carefully squeezed towards the middle all at the same time to allow it to come apart. Carefully using zip ties to help do this did the trick. Cut the ties right away after it is apart so the plastic doesn't gain a memory.
Obviously there's no frame, but I don't know if there's an opening that could be used.
Maybe able to put the hook from a ratchet strap into one of the holes or slots in the shock cross member.
When I did mine, dropping the tank wasn't terribly hard. Worst part was the strap bolts were seized up. Ended up having to saw off the J-bolts to drop it. I also had the luxury of being able to run it out of gas too.
I was finally able to install the new radiator, in addition to the new radiator I installed a new thermostat and housing, water pump and inlet tube and a ZJ fan clutch. A while back I replaced all of the hoses and flushed the heater core as well as deleted the heater control valve. It seems to be running about 20-30 degrees cooler than when I picked it up a little over a year ago.
I have pickle forks, two-jaw TRE and Pittman pullers, hammers, all of it, and a ball joint separator works better than all of them. Its called working smart.
10-31-2015, 09:36 AM
