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Changed oil (Rotella T5 w/Wix Filter). Been doing OCI's every 1,000 miles or so to clean it out. By Spring hope to have it spick and span and transistion to T6. Also painted some Rust Converter and Undercoating in undercarriage.
Changed oil (Rotella T5 w/Wix Filter). Been doing OCI's every 1,000 miles or so to clean it out. By Spring hope to have it spick and span and transistion to T6. Also painted some Rust Converter and Undercoating in undercarriage.
That short of an interval is actually bad for the engine. The metallic anti-wear additives like molybdenum and ZDDP are basically wiped by the fresh detergents and take a while to re-coat surfaces. Changing your oil much faster than that can just strip all protective layers. Stick to changing the filter every few hundred miles if it's super sludgetastic, do the oil at like 2000 if you can.
(also that short of an OCI why not use a cheap conventional?)
That short of an interval is actually bad for the engine. The metallic anti-wear additives like molybdenum and ZDDP are basically wiped by the fresh detergents and take a while to re-coat surfaces. Changing your oil much faster than that can just strip all protective layers. Stick to changing the filter every few hundred miles if it's super sludgetastic, do the oil at like 2000 if you can.
(also that short of an OCI why not use a cheap conventional?)
Had heard that range would be good w/o ever specifying using cheap/quality oil. Also, first oil change was with Castrol GTX, but after reading some here I switched to Rotella. Thought detergents would speed up process. Will go up to 2k this time around and switch up filter sooner. Thanks.
I swapped the the VERY bad condition steel rims on my 96 XJ sport with stock aluminum dark grey Ecco rims from the same era. It has brand new BFG ATs (235/75r15). The combo looks much better.
Quite the opposite, I'm afraid. Thicker oil = lower fuel economy. Lucas is too thick to be in anything but maybe a gearbox in Nicaragua. Would you mind sharing a photo of the center console? I've always been curious if the shifters are just like the XJ or not. Looks good. Am I correct in assuming your seat braces were good enough to keep?
I'm very quickly learning this to be true. I wish I had read your Rotella thread a day before my poorly planned oil change
That short of an interval is actually bad for the engine. The metallic anti-wear additives like molybdenum and ZDDP are basically wiped by the fresh detergents and take a while to re-coat surfaces. Changing your oil much faster than that can just strip all protective layers. Stick to changing the filter every few hundred miles if it's super sludgetastic, do the oil at like 2000 if you can.
(also that short of an OCI why not use a cheap conventional?)
Salad, would a shot of atf help clean things up faster or would that be too aggressive?
Freaked out as I was bringing home my new (96) Cherokee. Everytime I turned hard left or right an idiot light came on, but I couldn't see it. Last time I caught it I thought it said "low transfer". So I went quick to the google machine thinking my transfer case was low on fluid or some other catastrophe was in the works and found 0 information. This morning as I'm pulling into work (long, hard right turn) I saw the light again. "Low Washer"
I bought a polished aluminum radiator hose adapter (link) for my electric fan temperature switch, to replace the old brass pipe nipple that I had been using.
Salad, would a shot of atf help clean things up faster or would that be too aggressive?
ATF doesn't contain as many detergents as it used to. Even so, it is only really used as part of a flush, not gradual cleaning. It is far too thin to be run continuously in an engine like this.
ATF doesn't contain as many detergents as it used to. Even so, it is only really used as part of a flush, not gradual cleaning. It is far too thin to be run continuously in an engine like this.
I was considering adding a quart a few hundred miles before my next oil change. Do you think that is just a waste of atf?
Thanks to random misfire and misfire on all cylinders, the bf checked the spark plugs and one of them was deteriorating.. He took off the air filter and found it was an apartment for a nice little squirrel.. And so was my intake manifold.. Lol
Air filter box lol
Last edited by ItsAChevyJeepThing; 12-12-2015 at 09:39 AM.
Reason: Go autocorrect..
Thanks to random misfire and misfire on all cylinders, the bf checked the spark plugs and one of them was deteriorating.. He took off the air filter and found it was an apartment for a nice little squirrel.. And so was my intake manifold.. Lol Air filter box lol
Freaked out as I was bringing home my new (96) Cherokee. Everytime I turned hard left or right an idiot light came on, but I couldn't see it. Last time I caught it I thought it said "low transfer". So I went quick to the google machine thinking my transfer case was low on fluid or some other catastrophe was in the works and found 0 information. This morning as I'm pulling into work (long, hard right turn) I saw the light again. "Low Washer"
My '95 had that problem. Unless the tank was nearly overflowing, it was "low". The bulb finally burned out and the problem went away
Originally Posted by ItsAChevyJeepThing
Thanks to random misfire and misfire on all cylinders, the bf checked the spark plugs and one of them was deteriorating.. He took off the air filter and found it was an apartment for a nice little squirrel.. And so was my intake manifold.. Lol
12-11-2015, 08:38 PM
