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going to be figuring that out after i get the bumper on. i was thinking of using the JCR Nutstrips and fitting them to the bumper as a secondary mounting. Also wont be doing a tire carrier as i am either staying with 31" tires or possibly going to a 33 not sure on that yet either.
the front bumper is also tied in as far back as possible. so it is solid. it's also made of either 3/8" or 1/2" steel
FYI, I used the existing nut strips to install my RH4x4 rear bumper. If you pay shipping I'll give you the unused ones that came with the bumper. PM me if interested.
going to be figuring that out after i get the bumper on. i was thinking of using the JCR Nutstrips and fitting them to the bumper as a secondary mounting. Also wont be doing a tire carrier as i am either staying with 31" tires or possibly going to a 33 not sure on that yet either. the front bumper is also tied in as far back as possible. so it is solid. it's also made of either 3/8" or 1/2" steel
if I were you for the rear tie in I would use some box tube down the inside of the frame rail. There are a lot of pictures and write ups if you google it. My rear bumper ties into all the hitch holes on the inside of the frame.
Thanks.
It is on the list to fix that gauge, when I first tagged it no gauge then it suddenly worked and then died again. I don't drive it too far so it is the old trip odometer for now and my temp gauge scrapped the bed on the swap.
Added adjustable track bar to help 50mph+ death wobble i got after installing my 3" budget lift. This is a trackbar for 3-6" lift but it was too long so had to cut off 1/2" and now the axle lines up. The new bar came with grease zerks but the passenger side swaybar bracket blocked it so swapped the original zerk for a 90° zerk & still had to grind a little off the bracket for clearance. DW gone.
New & old trackbars
Swapped original zerk for 90° zerk but it was bigger
Had to grind a little off the swaybar bracket for clearance.
03-17-2016 | 09:51 PM
