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What did you do to your Cherokee today?

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Old 07-16-2016 | 10:02 PM
  #79366  
kyle96xj's Avatar
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From: Southern Maryland
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by a_shirey

Howd it work out for you??
Good, all it needed was a new pinion seal.
Old 07-16-2016 | 10:18 PM
  #79367  
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From: San Antonio, TX
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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did a bunch of small stuff, pluged almost everything in, tightened up the bolts on the intake, bolted in the replacement coil that i damaged dropping the engine in, nearly finished the fuel system(built my first braided -AN line!) still need to add the return line from the filter to the port i added on the tank,
Old 07-16-2016 | 11:55 PM
  #79368  
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From: Colorado
Year: 1991 2-Door
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Engine: 4.0 liter
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We worked on my sons XJ today, putting on the budget lift from his old XJ on his replacement XJ. Like most of these rust buckets the rear upper shock mount bolts were froze solid. Broke all four of them. So we fabricated these and welded them in. The rear is finally done, we'll start the front tomorrow.
Attached Thumbnails What did you do to your Cherokee today?-dscn0723-1024x768-.jpg   What did you do to your Cherokee today?-dscn0724-1024x768-.jpg   What did you do to your Cherokee today?-dscn0735-1024x768-.jpg   What did you do to your Cherokee today?-dscn0739-1024x768-.jpg   What did you do to your Cherokee today?-dscn0742-1024x768-.jpg  

What did you do to your Cherokee today?-jeffs-xj-lift.jpg  
Old 07-17-2016 | 12:11 AM
  #79369  
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From: Blunt, South Dakota
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.6 stroker
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I dunno, man, I wouldn't be trusting myself let alone my kid with that...

Brackets look good, but those welds...from what I can see, I wouldn't run. That metal under there is VERY thin, and brittle. I just welded some cracks in my trans tunnel, and even with my machine on it's lowest setting, burned through super easy. Had to basically micro-second spot weld to get it to take, and it took a while, and looked like hell until I ground it down semi smooth. The cracks were from a DS that cut loose a few years back, and not structural...shock mounts, on the other hand...I highly suggest you rethink your approach.
Old 07-17-2016 | 11:33 AM
  #79370  
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From: central IN
Year: 1997
Engine: 4.0
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I can see where the above post comes from. where those brackets are welded is very thin. I wouldn't trust it without further bracing or plating first. I could see the whole mfer flexing and bending when I was dealing with broken shock bolts.
Old 07-17-2016 | 11:53 AM
  #79371  
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From: Lantana, Fl
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.Slow
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Originally Posted by JandDGreens
We worked on my sons XJ today, putting on the budget lift from his old XJ on his replacement XJ. Like most of these rust buckets the rear upper shock mount bolts were froze solid. Broke all four of them. So we fabricated these and welded them in. The rear is finally done, we'll start the front tomorrow.
I know most people hate them but Rough Country had a good idea with this kit to fix that problem.
Attached Thumbnails What did you do to your Cherokee today?-screenshot_20160717-115146.png  
Old 07-17-2016 | 12:04 PM
  #79372  
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Year: 1988
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An even better option than welding brackets or RC's flag nut set is their Bar Pin Eliminators. Drill the hole out to a bigger bolt size and bolt the bracket in and never deal with that mess again.
Old 07-17-2016 | 12:06 PM
  #79373  
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From: San Antonio, TX
Year: 1996
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Engine: 4.0L
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fit the "stock" good year belt i had on the 4.0L on to the 5.3 with a tensioner pulley change

im hoping to fire it today..
Old 07-17-2016 | 12:19 PM
  #79374  
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Originally Posted by roninofako
I dunno, man, I wouldn't be trusting myself let alone my kid with that... Brackets look good, but those welds...from what I can see, I wouldn't run. That metal under there is VERY thin, and brittle. I just welded some cracks in my trans tunnel, and even with my machine on it's lowest setting, burned through super easy. Had to basically micro-second spot weld to get it to take, and it took a while, and looked like hell until I ground it down semi smooth. The cracks were from a DS that cut loose a few years back, and not structural...shock mounts, on the other hand...I highly suggest you rethink your approach.
Originally Posted by s346k
I can see where the above post comes from. where those brackets are welded is very thin. I wouldn't trust it without further bracing or plating first. I could see the whole mfer flexing and bending when I was dealing with broken shock bolts.
Originally Posted by Outlaw Star
I know most people hate them but Rough Country had a good idea with this kit to fix that problem.
Originally Posted by unidentifiedbomb
An even better option than welding brackets or RC's flag nut set is their Bar Pin Eliminators. Drill the hole out to a bigger bolt size and bolt the bracket in and never deal with that mess again.
so the thin piece of metal that the original shock bar pin mounts to is not sufficient in supporting his bracket, but it's ok for a bpe (which looks like what he made) or flag nut? Maybe if he came back with bolts?...
Old 07-17-2016 | 12:25 PM
  #79375  
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From: Lantana, Fl
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Originally Posted by bumblefox
so the thin piece of metal that the original shock bar pin mounts to is not sufficient in supporting his bracket, but it's ok for a bpe (which looks like what he made) or flag nut? Maybe if he came back with bolts?...
The flagnut is just a replacement for what was there already. It broke, which most do after years of rust, so i suggested a simple stock replacement option. Where's your problem with that?
Old 07-17-2016 | 12:41 PM
  #79376  
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Originally Posted by Outlaw Star
The flagnut is just a replacement for what was there already. It broke, which most do after years of rust, so i suggested a simple stock replacement option. Where's your problem with that?
no problem, just seems like several were jumping on him for his solution to a problem that seemed to suggest an inferior mounting surface that the factory hardware utilizes in the first place. If the welding seems sketchy then like I suggested, add a bolt or two, like the BPE brackets do in the first place. What's the difference in welding a plate on there and the welded nuts from the factory?
Old 07-17-2016 | 01:25 PM
  #79377  
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Engine: 4.6 stroker
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Originally Posted by bumblefox
no problem, just seems like several were jumping on him for his solution to a problem that seemed to suggest an inferior mounting surface that the factory hardware utilizes in the first place. If the welding seems sketchy then like I suggested, add a bolt or two, like the BPE brackets do in the first place. What's the difference in welding a plate on there and the welded nuts from the factory?
Because the welded nuts sit inside a reinforced pocket. All that was bypassed when welding the brackets to the surface.
Old 07-17-2016 | 01:28 PM
  #79378  
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From: Essex-England
Year: 1997
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today i repaired my cruise control on my 97 xj,turned out to be dry solder joints on the solenoids in the vacuum servo unit.so once i re-soldered the joints put it all back together,went for test drive..cruise control now works...;-)
Old 07-17-2016 | 01:29 PM
  #79379  
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Originally Posted by cleenrob
fit the "stock" good year belt i had on the 4.0L on to the 5.3 with a tensioner pulley change

im hoping to fire it today..
Aw yeah...looking forward to this
Old 07-17-2016 | 02:26 PM
  #79380  
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From: Nebraska
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Got the vent visors installed on our Jeep.
Well, Mom N Dad did anyway. lol. No more rain inside if I forget to check the forecast.
yeah, that happened to me twice already.
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