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Replaced plugs, cap, rotor, wires, and air filter and took the Jeep out for a ride to check the rear discs. Wow, what a difference both the tuneup and the brake upgrade made! The brakes really feel much better than with the old drum setup. Certainly anyone that needs to service their XJ rear brakes really should do this rather than relining the drums. Better yet, do it before the rear drums go bad!
One PITA was adjusting the parking brake - I think someone here described it basically as messing with the star adjusters 500 times until it works. That was pretty much the case. I got it to the point where there is just a little bit of drag on the rear wheels and the parking brake holds while idling in gear if you pull up all the way. I figure that should do the trick. (Don't want to make them too tight, those thin parking brake linings look like they'd disintegrate.)
I also greased the front end, then sprayed Fluid Film on the chassis to prepare for winter salt. Tomorrow I'm hoping to replace the windshield washer motors. Since the front needs to be jacked up for that it should also be a good time to do the transfer case oil, also thinking of doing at least a partial transmission fluid change. Should probably also do the front diff so all lubricants are up to snuff.
After much searching, i finally found the correct evaporator at teamcherokee.com. It came in today. Very nice and even came with a new expansion valve. Factory fit with no modification. Only down side is I had to pay about $140 for the thing. Just glad I finally got the jeeps dash back in and up and running again.
What's the story on this. I'm getting some underside welding work done in the next couple weeks and am looking for a product to protect the chassis.
There are a number of oil-type sprays available that help retard rust. You can even just spray motor oil, but as you might expect that makes a mess and it probably doesn't adhere as well as the purpose-made stuff. (Much cheaper though.)
The Fluid Film coating I sprayed on last year was still pretty much intact and it's been through all kinds of weather. I just touched it up and made sure it was in all the seams and surfaces I could get to. Also spray it into the unibody frame rails. I buy Fluid Film in one-gallon cans and use an air gun to spray it on.
Spent an hour or so tinkering with the Cheep (nickname i think is fitting) and working out some of the kinks from the previous owner. Replaced the rear driveshaft u joints, the needle bearings looking fine on the original u joints but still had some play. Changed the oil, and found the clunking i thought was a Ball joint was actually a loose front control, gotta love free fixes lol. So now that leaves the front shaft u joints, ball joints, and headliner to be replaced and ill call it ready for some fun.
Replaced washer fluid pumps and changed transfer case fluid.
The pumps are kind of a pain to get to. You have to pull down the inner fender liner and it's a bit tight in there, at least if you're as hamfisted as I am. Of course I managed to push the new grommets into the washer fluid bottle and it took some doing to fish them out.
The old washer pumps were basically lumps of rust.
Some sources list different part numbers for the front and rear pumps and some don't. There really is not any difference between them that I could see aside from the type of electrical connector. (I used the part Rockauto lists as the front pump for both locations. It comes with the adapter harness needed for the front electrical hookup.)
I used dielectric grease on the connectors and sprayed the new pumps with Fluid Film in the hope they won't wind up looking like rusted hulks for a while.
My rear wiper bezel was broken where the washer line hooks up so I'll have to order a replacement. For now I just drilled out the plastic and ran a 7/64" line directly through and hooked it up to the feed line. Sealed it up with a bit of RTV to keep anything from getting in. It works fine, though strangely at first it was spraying away from the glass. Had to unclip the little spray nozzle and mount it upside down. (This was a new rear wiper arm that I installed last year.)
Changing the transfer case fluid was uneventful aside from having to use a bit of heat on the drain plug to persuade it out. (Of course I made sure the fill plug would come out first and it did so with no problem.)
It's great to have working windshield and back window washers again!
10-12-2016, 05:57 AM
