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i cut away all but an inch of bad floor. temporarily screwed and bolted new pans in place.marked a line on floor and removed pans. layed a heavy bead of seam sealer on the edge of floor. put pans in aligned with screw /bolt holes and replaced screws/bolts. went under and added sealer where needed. absolutly solid, no welding, it scares me!!
I started working on replacing floor boards again until I drew blood. I am so disappointed in these key brand replacement panels. The back end is about 1/2" too long. The one seat bolt hole doesn't line up and the other is not even there. I don't know if I should try and butt weld where it goes up the center hump or just overlap it and spot weld.
Praise goes out to anyone who does this for a living.
Welcome to the wonderful world of fabrication. Nothing fits the way it "should"...you gotta trim, drill, file, fit and pound.
I started working on replacing floor boards again until I drew blood. I am so disappointed in these key brand replacement panels. The back end is about 1/2" too long. The one seat bolt hole doesn't line up and the other is not even there. I don't know if I should try and butt weld where it goes up the center hump or just overlap it and spot weld.
Praise goes out to anyone who does this for a living.
Overlap and spot weld will work, make sure you use weld thru primer on the backside of the panel, then regular primer after welding is complete followed by seam sealer and paint.
You're going to want to make sure you follow those steps to prevent corrosion from reoccurring.
Checked all fluids, greased everything possible and topper her off with gogo juice in anticipation for the Jeepers United run down at Uwharrie this weekend! Pics to come.
Well today was a busy day and my back will remind me for the next couple days. I installed my Yakima racks and accessories. Installed heavy duty steering links. Washed and waxed. I am already regretting it......
Assessed the situation. All seals on the transfercase are leaking, front pinion is leaking, rear pinion is leaking, the steering stabilizer was leaking and I removed it and needs a new transfer case linkage. Parked it in the garage and texted a friend with a clocking jig. I'll start tearing it apart, but this time I pull it out I'm clocking it too. Never had a leak before I had the axles re geared now all hell breaks loose.
That 1/2" extra is for the overlap with the original - so you can make a nice neat seam. I would expect a nice factory Z-edge to make it all come together flush but I have a tool to make the little offset Z too. I think I got it from Eastwood. "Panel Seamer", "Panel Edger", or something like that it was called. It was many years ago now.
I haven't done a metal panels for a long time - as soon as I realized that I could rebuild anything I wanted with marine epoxy and canvas cloth - I never looked back. <g>
PHM
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Originally Posted by xjthing
I started working on replacing floor boards again until I drew blood. I am so disappointed in these key brand replacement panels. The back end is about 1/2" too long. The one seat bolt hole doesn't line up and the other is not even there. I don't know if I should try and butt weld where it goes up the center hump or just overlap it and spot weld.
Praise goes out to anyone who does this for a living.
Not today but yesterday. Loaded up and headed north to purchase a craigs list 1984 xj 2 door v6 5 speed. An exact copy of mine, just 2 years older. Mind you, I live in the panhandle of texas and the xj was about 30 miles west of denver, colorado.
Left here at 4:00 a.m. and after 18 1/2 hours driving, through a freak ice and snow storm, 6-8 inches of snow on Raton Pass, snow most of the trip through colorado, got home with my newest pride and joy.
The xj actually runs, shifts, and the 4 wheel drive works in 4h and 4 low. Not a real beauty after living it's whole life in colorado, but definitely worth the $400 and the long road trip.
03-31-2017 | 12:02 AM
any closer and the paint looks like ****.
