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Dropped the skidplate so i could finish pulling the swaybar out.
Swapped out the steering stabilizer while i was in there, double checked the torque on the track bar bracket. Attempted to do a drop pitman arm, but couldnt break the old one loose, and did NOT want to risk damaging that RHD steering box.
Once all that was done, the old Ranger got some much needed love. New upper arms and shocks. Went a lot easier than i expected.
Got my ac working again! Let it sit on a vacuum pump for a while, made sure the needle didnt drop after and put some Freon in. Works good in the wonderful 100° weather today. Got to tighten the belt a hair though. Squeals every now and then when the compressor kicks on.
Upgraded all battery and negative cables. Installed a resetable breaker between alt and battery. Preping to change oil pan gasket and rear main seal. Any advice on that? Today going to install rough country forged adjustable track bars front and rear. Not sure how to make sure axles are dead center and lined up.
yea i used 1/0 for wire going frim fender to battery. Put the resettable in just in case. And using a resettable means if something were to go wrong I am not buying stick in a fuse company
I was able to get to my oil pan gasket again yesterday. Apparently when I installed it last week, I snapped the Fel-Pro gasket in half right near the RMS. It looked a lot like a catastrophic failure of the RMS but it turned out not to be that. While I was at it, I did the RMS because I should have done it last week.
That top half of that seal did NOT want to come out at all.
So now I stripped a couple of oil pan bolt holes and will have to get at it with some helicoils as I doubt the slathering of RTV over the holes will last very long.
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by DieRache
yea i used 1/0 for wire going frim fender to battery.
I don't mean the cable, I'm wondering about the grounding point itself, the connection to the sheet metal. The stock sheet metal screw is pathetic. Did you do anything to improve that?
Originally Posted by BlueRidgeMark
Not only the fender cable, but I'd make a better grounding point on the fender well itself. Take out that stupid sheet metal screw. Drill the hole out to accept a 5/16" bolt. Strip the paint down to bare metal around the hole. Now thread a stainless 5/16" bolt through from the backside. Put a good star washer on it first, and slop it up with dielectric grease. Once it's through, add a stainless flat washer, a stainless nut, and tighten it down good. Now you have a nice stud sticking out of the fenderwell. Add your new cable over that, and add another washer and nut. Now you have a FAR better grounding point for your Jeep.
By the way, anything that needs 1/0 cable should have its own dedicated ground cable. Anything over 6 gauge to the body ground is wasted copper. Starter current should be going through the main ground to the block (which can stand an upgrade to 4 gauge - more is just a waste), any high current devices like winches should have a dedicated ground to the battery terminal, and not be grounded through the body.
By the way, anything that needs 1/0 cable should have its own dedicated ground cable. Anything over 6 gauge to the body ground is wasted copper. Starter current should be going through the main ground to the block (which can stand an upgrade to 4 gauge - more is just a waste), any high current devices like winches should have a dedicated ground to the battery terminal, and not be grounded through the body.
Absolute fact... And I'm pretty sure I have not read this explain any better than you just did here sir. Body stuff only needs minimal, heavy amp stuff needs a passage with much more current capacity directly back to the source.
I did not even think to upgrade the bolt or ground point other than clean the area. Well at least I know what I am doing tomorrow. And yes I realize that 1/0 is over kill but had extra of both black and red so used it.
06-11-2018 | 03:22 PM
