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track bar and oil change. i can see how track bar and related items can cause death wobble. the ball joint on the chassis side of mine failed, caused a healthy clunk and what i would call the beginning of dw (58-62 mph).
typical jeep stuff. tried to grab the cotter pin and it crumbled leaving a very small portion in the castle nut. got a wrench on it and muscled the nut loose.
axle side bolt was seized in the bushing sleeve. luckily the weird square nut thing broke free and allowed me to separate it from the bolt. used an impact to spin the bolt while simultaneously using a small pry bar to push it out from the inside. all in all i broke 1 pickle fork, bent 2 punches and bent a screwdriver.
2 hours of buffing later we get this (cut and polish). Pretty much looks the same. Still have to put a layer of wax on.
Looks good dude, I am sure polishing increased gloss so not a total loss. Plus removed any oxidized paint. Silver is a hard color to spot defects on anyways
So some of you might remember that I picked up some power, both sides, heated seats with the harness and switches. So I played with them today. Also had an extra passenger side power seat base that I picked up in my travels. Now I already put a power seat in the drivers side. Thinking one of the gears is stripped in the motor in the driver side base. The one that does the tilt in the back. I don't need that seat so it does not matter. Both passenger sides ones work. The switch was bad in the one that came with the heated seats. Had an extra switch and it works fine. The one I picked up separate was fine as is. So when I tried to use the heater part all that would happen is the high indicator would blink for both seats. Did not matter if I hit low or high. Only the high would light up and blink. Meaning there is a problem some where. The white box you see on the passenger power seat base is called a SHIM. Forgot what it stands for. There is also a relay there. I tried combinations of both to see if the seats would operate. No joy. Thinking that all of them could not be bad started checking the seat heating elements. I found two that did not have continuity. There is only one element in the upright parts. Those were fine. See the fifth shot for what the connector looks like. I tore apart one seat. There are two in the bottom part. One up front where you legs hang over, see shot 6, and one in the back half more where you butt is. See shots 2 and 7. Also in that section is what I think is a temp sensor. See shot 1. Shot 8 is all the wires that come out of the bottom part. Now unfortunately because of old plastic being so brittle I might have messed up the passenger side switch beyond repair. And obviously because I ripped up the bottom of that one seat to get at the heating element it can't be used. But I think I have an idea. Take the wiring and sandwich it between to pieces of whatever fabric they use to make aftermarket heated seat elements. Of course I have to fix some of the wiring first. And try to repair or source another switch.
So some of you might remember that I picked up some power, both sides, heated seats with the harness and switches. So I played with them today. Also had an extra passenger side power seat base that I picked up in my travels. Now I already put a power seat in the drivers side. Thinking one of the gears is stripped in the motor in the driver side base. The one that does the tilt in the back. I don't need that seat so it does not matter. Both passenger sides ones work. The switch was bad in the one that came with the heated seats. Had an extra switch and it works fine. The one I picked up separate was fine as is. So when I tried to use the heater part all that would happen is the high indicator would blink for both seats. Did not matter if I hit low or high. Only the high would light up and blink. Meaning there is a problem some where. The white box you see on the passenger power seat base is called a SHIM. Forgot what it stands for. There is also a relay there. I tried combinations of both to see if the seats would operate. No joy. Thinking that all of them could not be bad started checking the seat heating elements. I found two that did not have continuity. There is only one element in the upright parts. Those were fine. See the fifth shot for what the connector looks like. I tore apart one seat. There are two in the bottom part. One up front where you legs hang over, see shot 6, and one in the back half more where you butt is. See shots 2 and 7. Also in that section is what I think is a temp sensor. See shot 1. Shot 8 is all the wires that come out of the bottom part. Now unfortunately because of old plastic being so brittle I might have messed up the passenger side switch beyond repair. And obviously because I ripped up the bottom of that one seat to get at the heating element it can't be used. But I think I have an idea. Take the wiring and sandwich it between to pieces of whatever fabric they use to make aftermarket heated seat elements. Of course I have to fix some of the wiring first. And try to repair or source another switch.
I had to work a show down in Los Angeles last night, and did not get back up to Wrightwood till 3:30 this morning (20HR day. I am getting way to old for this stuff), so not a lot done on the Jeep this weekend.
We did however manage to get the passenger door back on Scarlett.
So both doors are back on. Tomorrow maybe fenders, and more wiring?
Been poking around. Temp is 100 degrees Fahrenheit on high and 90 on low for the heated seats. 3M 77 glue seems to have a heat resistance rating of 150 degrees. Almost thinking I could use any kind of cloth I want to sandwich the heating elements in between. The spray adhesive will hopefully keep the wire in place between the 2 pieces of cloth. Layout the wire evenly between the cloth. After I fix the breaks first. Then I just slide the under the seats as if they were aftermarket ones. Almost wondering if I should put them under my Coverking seat covers and not the factory seat covers. Logic being is that they are under the leather but above a layer of foam that is spray adhesived to the leather. If I put them under the factory seat cover then the heat needs to rise through the foam, leather, then the foam in my Coverkings, and through the Rhinohide fabric itself.
Looks good dude, I am sure polishing increased gloss so not a total loss. Plus removed any oxidized paint. Silver is a hard color to spot defects on anyways
Thanks! It is a bit more shiny then it was before. Got rid of all the water spots on it too. I really should have run the clay bar over it first since its got a lot of fallout on the paint but its still better then it started! Now time to move on to the other Jeep. Its got some pin stripes I need to get rid of haha.
Found out my front bumper FINALLY shipped. So god willing I'll get it painted up and mounted sometime next weekend. Im never ordering from them again. Ugh.
Gotta love when companies are on the ball. Remember my OTC Leak Down Tester dilemma. Well that Saturday I called the 800#'s of OTC and the online company that sold me the tool. Closed for business. No surprise there. Figured I would just deal with it today. OTC had an customer support email so figured send one out on Saturday. Come home today and already had an offer to mail me a new hose. Just needed my address. Here is the weird thing. I kinda think I emailed the wrong department. Yet somebody was on the ball and forwarded it to the right place. If this hose works thinking if I need a tool see if OTC sells it first.
06-17-2018, 03:27 AM
