They look like they're made out of red jello! Lol.

Same on mine if I factor in the 33's vs stock speedo gear.

 

35's, 4.88's + an AX15 gets me about 15 in stop/go conditions and up to 18 on the highway depending on cruise speed and grade

 

As much as I would really like to keep my jeep, I have thought about selling my 1985 2 Door Cherokee, 2.5 liter Hurricane, 4 x 4, 5 speed, sun roof, Tan & Brown

 

I don't want to make a new thread for this so I'll just leave it here and see what happens.

Friend overheated he motor on his G35 and now it has a rod knock. Motor is toast. He doesn't have much cash to spend and is kind of at a lower point in his life and I want to help him out a little.

I am not rich myself, but I have a little cash saved up and have been looking for something cheap for him to get around in (even $500 is going to put him in a tough spot now). Thinking of making an offer for cash + trade of something useful. I was trying to find a 4wd but haven't found anything in decent enough shape for a reasonable price.

Thinking of making an offer on this XJ and seeing if I can't get her running on the cheap. Mostly worried about the reverse issue since I have never owned an automatic trans and don't have too much experience with it. Could just be low fluid level, or a dirty NSS, but beyond that I know the AW4 is regarded as strong. Any likely culprits for the trans slipping in reverse beyond those two things?

 

I'd be wary of a slipping AW4. It's possible the fluid is just low, but I'd be concerned that the wrong type of fluid was added. But with that said, replacement AW4s in my area are pretty cheap

 

Yeah, I honestly could throw a used replacement in for about $150 or so (including fluid and such). 2wd means even less work.
He was looking a Subaru's but they are a PITA to work on in my opinion and I will probably end up helping him with the majority of work.

Since he overheated his current car, pretty much anything I look at will require a cooling system overhaul before I hand it off to him. On an XJ that is a cheap endeavor, but more expensive and complicated on other vehicles

 

Welded up rear stifferners yesterday. More in my build thread

 

Well, its a start.


Lol, threw the first new part at Big Ugly today. And so it begins...

 

polished yer ****, eh?


I don't know if my jeep is in the outliers, but the liftgate latch rod isn't threaded, but looks like it's meant to be secured with bailing wire… none of the fixes I've done have kept it from being difficult to open— no more of that ****! I ordered a replacement rod that actually is threaded. I can throw a nylock nut on the rod, zip tie it to the swivel, and never peel back the liftgate trim again! And also never break my rear fin again— I got scared since I just replaced it.

 

Talking about this rod here? When I put new bump stops on I had trouble opening the tailgate. I screwed that rod a little more in one direction, can't remember which way, and secured it with a zip tie like that for the hell of it. Whole time not knowing I could have just screwed the bump stop bolts in or out. LOL.

 

Every day. At least once.


Lol, that poor jeep needs a LOT of help. But first things first, gotta have a shift ****. That **** ain't cool.

 

I don't follow, sorry :/ I don't understand what you're calling the bump stops.
I've tried the methods similar to the one in that video, but no matter what I've tried each solution has failed within a week. I've done zips around the top piece, both top and bottom, top and bottom and diagonally, and done everything short of epoxy…

This is the only way [I think] it could conceivably be a near-permanent fix (barring JBWeld). The pronged "sprung" (laughable) portions (red) are supposed to hold it in, and I've heard some people have discovered bailing wire used from the factory to further hold it in place. My solution is to use the nut (the green Devo hat looking blob) on top to secure the vertical (which is the most common point of failure), and additionally with a zip tie (blue—the dashed line is showing where it goes around and actually secures) wrapping the rod around the swiveling portion (where the red parts are riveted on) so they don't just pop out. I'm going to use several in this application— I suppose an even more permanent solution there would be to use a worm-screw hose clamp in place of the zip tie.

 

I mean these:

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-help-hatch-door-bumpers-45390/17191162-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=17191162-P&adtype=pla_with_promotion&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw-a4rurR3AIVgcDACh0-BwqkEAQYASABEgIkfPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Mine were shot so I replaced them. Then had the problem of the hatch not opening sometimes. My theory is that with new bump stops the hatch was being pushed out a little farther. I was just asking if the rod in my picture, which is partially threaded, is what you are saying is not threaded at all in your Jeep?

 

Yes. It's not a helical thread pitch, but a series of parallel fillets. I thought I would just grind/sand it down and use a die, but I didn't want to straight up ruin it.

My buddy's XJ rod is threaded, the one I just bought is threaded, and I just thought it really odd that mine wasn't—maybe it was a silent recall or something.

Thanks for the bump-stop link though— I'll need some eventually.

 

That is weird.