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Today I thought I would solve my noisy door problem once and for all! I replaced the door check arm bracket. I've had this sitting in my quadratec cart for weeks but couldn't bring myself to spend the $12 on it. Found it on ebay for $9 and pulled the trigger. Finally got this puppy in just in time to realize that the check arm itself is wobbled out as well so I still have my noise.. albeit quieter... for now... Without much research it looks like I may be able to just swap out one of the check units from the rear and put it up front to the drivers door. DANG!
On those id keep the same centers, but run black lugs. That would look sharp, break it up a bit.
Yep, may try that ! The centercaps are $55 a set of four ! Black lugnuts, are a lot cheaper. If I don't like them, I'll just save them for my second set of black wheels for playing in the dirt !
Today I thought I would solve my noisy door problem once and for all! I replaced the door check arm bracket. I've had this sitting in my quadratec cart for weeks but couldn't bring myself to spend the $12 on it. Found it on ebay for $9 and pulled the trigger. Finally got this puppy in just in time to realize that the check arm itself is wobbled out as well so I still have my noise.. albeit quieter... for now... Without much research it looks like I may be able to just swap out one of the check units from the rear and put it up front to the drivers door. DANG!
Pretty sure you can't. Door checks are different part numbers for fronts and backs. Left and rights don't matter though. Also come to find out when I did mine there are these little nylon washer in there.
Factory one is the top one. Bottom is hardware store replacement. Keep the arm of the door check more centered on the pin. Guessing there was two on each door check but can't be sure. Also not sure if it even matters.
At operating temp, engine off, I wait about 5 minutes for the oil that should do to drain back into the pan.
Dern it, that reminds me I gotta change my oil.
I think there's conflation of the oil level check and checking the ATF level going on—that you do at operating temp, in neutral, while running.
I was mostly thinking of thermal expansion - but I agree that checking the oil when hot is the best method.
Or just don't dump all the oil in at once, before checking the dipstick like I did
Luckily the drain plug was really easy to get to. Pulled out 1/4 of a quart and now its perfect
That means they are polarized if they work one way and not the other. Where I live the laws are the same as yours. Are sure your side markers are operating properly? Turn signals work. Turn signals work with the headlights on. They turn on when you turn on your headlights. Because if so that might mean an '99 is wired a little differently there then an '00. To get a clearer picture of what I am talking about you can read it here:
The side marker lights flash with the front parking lights when the lock or unlock button is pushed. the side markers come on with the front parking lights when the remote start button is used. the side markers do not flash with directional unless the parking lights are on. (first notch on light switch). I put an incandescent bulb back in, flashed weakly (with direction light, on with direction, off with direction) with parking lights off. flashed strong (off when direction on, on when direction off) with parking lights on. with incandescent bulb back in dash lights (right and left) were on constant very dim. Fog lights also only work with parking or headlights on. I'm not sure if a bridge rectifier wired in would solve this.
Pretty sure you can't. Door checks are different part numbers for fronts and backs. Left and rights don't matter though. Also come to find out when I did mine there are these little nylon washer in there.
Who knew about the washers? I don't see any on my doors but can't see them hurting any. The sound is definitely amplified by the verticle play allowed. Seems like a pain to install tho.
Only difference between the front and rear door checks, is the length of the arm.
Who knew about the washers? I don't see any on my doors but can't see them hurting any. The sound is definitely amplified by the verticle play allowed. Seems like a pain to install tho.
Good info thx, I will add it to the JY list
I did my driver's door first. It popped pretty good. I bought all Mopar parts which probably cost a couple bucks more then the Crown/Dorman equivalents. But I do have an in at the dealership. They are a customer of the auto parts store I work at. They look out on the pricing. Anyway. No washers on that side. Once I had the driver's door all nice nice I realized my passenger side door was not as smooth as I original thought. Thought it was fine and had no intention of doing it. But once I saw how smooth the driver's side was my damn OCD kicked in again. That is when I found 1 washer in there. Looked at my back doors and saw one side had 2 and the other only one. Damn OCD again. Thinking the factory notched one just gets forced in when already assembled. But pulling all the pins to add those was easy enough. Even put new washers on the back doors.
The side marker lights flash with the front parking lights when the lock or unlock button is pushed. the side markers come on with the front parking lights when the remote start button is used. the side markers do not flash with directional unless the parking lights are on. (first notch on light switch). I put an incandescent bulb back in, flashed weakly (with direction light, on with direction, off with direction) with parking lights off. flashed strong (off when direction on, on when direction off) with parking lights on. with incandescent bulb back in dash lights (right and left) were on constant very dim. Fog lights also only work with parking or headlights on. I'm not sure if a bridge rectifier wired in would solve this.
It appears you are having the same problems with the 194's as me. That is why I am hoping the Non Polarized ones with take care of that.
09-04-2018 | 06:48 PM
