What did you do to your Cherokee today?
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Location: Antelope Valley, CA
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
All that sanding paid off. Now waiting on Zone to send my lift kit.
Last edited by S. Snake; 11-20-2018 at 09:29 PM. Reason: Picture didnt load
Seasoned Member
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Location: Pasadena, Md.
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Year: 94
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 H.O.
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Location: Indiana
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Is that single stage? Clear coated or no? Looking good.
I'm about ready to paint mine and can't decide on single stage with no clear or two part with clear coat, or possibly single stage with clear.
I'm about ready to paint mine and can't decide on single stage with no clear or two part with clear coat, or possibly single stage with clear.
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Its summit racings gloss single stage, no clear coat. 3 coats to coverage should have adequate thickness for a wetsand and cut and buff. Paint is forgiving enough for a beginner and isn't super sensitive to surface contamination like some two stages I have sprayed.
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thanks for the reply. Another round of sanding and buffing is what I want to avoid, that's why I'm considering two stage with a matte finish. Spray color, spray clear coat with no sanding or buffing in between or afterwards.
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Depending on how good your spray equipment is and how clean your spray environment is determines how much you will have to sand and buff. My pickup is sprayed with summit's hot rod flats matte green paint and even it needs a little sanding to be perfect but for me the fact I don't have to spray another layer of material (read clean gun and reclean it) and the fact it comes glossy is what sold me on the single stage. You can PM me motoboss if you have any more detailed questions I'll be happy to help.
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Hunt County Texas
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Pulled the oil pressure sender adapter, put some teflon tape on the threads and added a o-ring to it. Also pulled the distributor, again, and replaced the gasket with an o-ring. It looks like the felpro gasket I put on there wasn't sealing. I'm getting a decent oil leak from that side. Enough to wet down that side of the engine and leave a few drops of oil everywhere I go and getting a nice oil mist on everything again. The oil filter adpater orings were replaced but with Crown parts about a month ago. I've got an OEM o-ring set for the adapter sitting on the shelf for when I do my next oil change if this doesn't dry up that leak.
I also pulled the throttle body, removed the IAC and TPS and cleaned all that up. It looked like it'd never been cleaned. I used a whole can of Throttle Body cleaner and ruined a stiff bristled brush and still didn't get all of it. Wound up throwing it in my Berryman's carb dip for about 3 and a half hours and that did the trick. Not as clean looking on the outside as my GS850G carbs but good enough for an old Jeep. The inside looked good as new with exception of a few stubborn spots in the IAC passage. A scrapper and some water took care of that.
I love my front hitch. I went with the Curt because I HEARD it was higher and tighter to the bumper. I don't know how true that is. I wanted to keep the OEM bumpers but still have a recovery spot that was better than tow hooks and gave me the option to run a winch in the future, with the advantage of not lugging around the weight of a winch when I didn't need it such as on commuting duty. I was able to quickly trim the bumper dam to fit around mine and really like the low profile look. It also felt like it stiffened up the front end a bit as far as handling goes.
I also pulled the throttle body, removed the IAC and TPS and cleaned all that up. It looked like it'd never been cleaned. I used a whole can of Throttle Body cleaner and ruined a stiff bristled brush and still didn't get all of it. Wound up throwing it in my Berryman's carb dip for about 3 and a half hours and that did the trick. Not as clean looking on the outside as my GS850G carbs but good enough for an old Jeep. The inside looked good as new with exception of a few stubborn spots in the IAC passage. A scrapper and some water took care of that.
I love my front hitch. I went with the Curt because I HEARD it was higher and tighter to the bumper. I don't know how true that is. I wanted to keep the OEM bumpers but still have a recovery spot that was better than tow hooks and gave me the option to run a winch in the future, with the advantage of not lugging around the weight of a winch when I didn't need it such as on commuting duty. I was able to quickly trim the bumper dam to fit around mine and really like the low profile look. It also felt like it stiffened up the front end a bit as far as handling goes.
Last edited by downs; 11-24-2018 at 07:11 PM.
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Year: 1990
Engine: Renix 4.0
Ended up ordering the Hack & Tap SYE and Seal Housing from Iron Rock Offroad.
$120 shipped for an old style NP242J SYE. Can't wait until it gets here!
$120 shipped for an old style NP242J SYE. Can't wait until it gets here!
Last edited by craigjacob1; 11-24-2018 at 09:08 PM.
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Getting the engine bay ready to be cleaned and rust fixed. Base Stroker should be here in a few days.
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Junior Member
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Location: Antelope Valley, CA
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Attachment 403808 picked it up and gave it a good look over. Seems like I'll be dropping an engine in it. The head gasket is blown and I'm not sure how long before I came into possession it was blown, so the safe route would probably be a good used motor.