So I got some of the Ext Idle switch wired up. Don't mind the mess cause I am hoping this is just temporary. I want to put in some aux fuse boxes and most of this will be reworked
Switch is grounded, 12V run source is hooked up, and so is the illumination of the symbol when the headlights are one.
Fuse #6 in the Junction Box is what runs all the little dash board light bulbs in the Jeep. So I put a fuse tap in there and hooked up the orange wire on the Ext Idle switch.
It is just a 5 amp fuse in there. My friend helped me determine that one of those little light bulbs draws .12 amps. And half that when you turn the dimmer down all the way.
Tomorrow I hope to get the wire from the engine compartment into the passenger compartment and wired to the last wire on the pigtail.
You can barely tell from the picture that the indicator light is on and can't tell at all but the words Ext Idle are illuminated with the headlights on too.

 

I spent the last 2 days off and on trying to get some stuff done. I got one LCA skid plate welded up...I misplaced the other one...so time to clean up the garage. I started cutting the rear fenders for flares. So far I had to fabricated the entire lower 5 inches of the dog leg on the driver's side. I patched up a 2 inch hole in the rear quarter panel. I've been using 14ga sheet metal. I think I'm become a grinding expert. I have a decent amount to get done by Friday. I found some wiring behind the rear drivers quarter panel that was in a foam pouch. Anyone know what that's for?

 

Removed dash cluster to install shims behind the two connectors. I'm hoping this solves my faulty gauges. So far so good!
Detailed interior.

 

So more on the Ext Idle switch. Looks like the switch draws .1 amps when turned on. But I don't have it hooked up in the engine compartment yet. So wondering if when it is all hooked up if that will change.
Speaking of which finally go to play with my new, bought quite sometime ago cause I got a good deal, soldering gun. In anticipation of doing electrical stuff.
Now all the stuff for the switch is going to get reworked if I every get around to putting in those aux fuse boxes. But the part in the engine compartment is going to be final.
Why I am soldering this and not butt connecting it like all the ones in the dash.
I am trying to do things more right.
Never soldered anything before. Found an awesome YouTube video. Guy explains every little detail. So here is my first attempt.
This is the cable that I am going to slide into the connector by the firewall to give me a pigtail so I can extend that gray from the computer to the switch.
Another pretty good YouTube video explaining how to do this. Just required getting a wire with the terminal out of a boneyard Jeep.

So more to come and hopefully have it all done today.

 

Got the brand new compressor in and had the R134 recharged. My AC guy is convinced that there is a leak somewhere in the system and I'm just here hoping that it's not in the evaporator. If so, that repair will have to wait until it gets cooler again, so probably in October, possibly November. Crossing fingers that the leak was somehow in the OEM Sanden 709T or in the clutch or something and that I have just solved the problem.

Bueller? Anyone? Ok guys, just let me have some hope already LOL.

Sanden 7H15

 

I agree Doug did a great job on these vents. Do yours sit flat with hood all the way around? The pass inner one on mine has a gap, not sure if it's something I did. Hood had no dings in it. For now I just put some rtv to fill the gap. Eveything will be coming off again when I redo the paint on the hood.

 

Well I officially have an Ext Idle switch. I hooked up the wire in the engine compartment like the guy did in this video.


I was able to run all the wiring, for out to the engine compartment and over to the Junction Box, through the loom that was in place from when I wired the factory fog lights in that my Jeep did not come with.
Was a bit of a pain feeding the wire but got it done.On the down side very early this morning while still dark I checked the illumination of the Ext Idle words in the switch. It looks different then the other three. Maybe it is dirty in there. Maybe something
partly peeled off in there. Maybe some year I will take the switch apart to see if it can be fixed.

 

I live up north and rust on my Jeep became my friend but I was wondering if any of you find a good solution for the rusted rockers. I am not asking for replacing the rockers but maybe a cover that will hide the rust.
Any tips, suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Had the serpentine belt replaced as it had started chirping a bit, also had the mechanic do a thorough check on all the mechanicals to which I got an "all good" with the exception of a tiny valve cover gasket leak. I was asked by three different folks at the shop if it was from down south or out west, as a 30 year old Jeep with no rust, in Wisconsin to boot, is a rare beast indeed. Also removed the bug guard, which made a huge visual difference (for the better).

 

Finally ordered new rear suspension and e-brake cables... how many months ago did I plan this? lol

But soon enough I'll have rear discs, new leaves, and fresh dif oil... here's hoping my seals are still ok.

 

Removed and cleaned throttle body on my Renix 4.0. After install, will be testing and adjusting TPS per cruiser54's tip #8.

 

Change the spark plugs they said itll be easy they said....... Thankfully i found someone who will come look at it tomorrow.

 

IMO you could use aluminum flashing and rivets to cover up the rust (it's easy to work with). I've done that in the past to pass inspection. The problem I ran into was when the rust gets so bad it becomes a safety issue. My driver's side inner rocker got to the point where it was almost rusted up to the seatbelt bolt. That's why I ended up replacing the entire driver's side floor, inner, and outer rocker panels.

 

I set it on fire.

 

Today I made the trip downtown to Harbor Freight to get an AC Gauge set. My low side pressure is high...but the air is blowing cold. I ran out of daylight and will screw with this tomorrow before work I guess.

Also replaced a broken TRE boot from the drivers' side inner which is getting clobbered every time I make a turn it looks like. We'll see how long this one holds up.