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Today I made the trip downtown to Harbor Freight to get an AC Gauge set. My low side pressure is high...but the air is blowing cold. I ran out of daylight and will screw with this tomorrow before work I guess.
Also replaced a broken TRE boot from the drivers' side inner which is getting clobbered every time I make a turn it looks like. We'll see how long this one holds up.
I am going to do this today. I borrowed my friend's HF set up. What was the number for the low side and what was the temp outside?
So I did get around to checking my AC today.
Little background.
One of the reasons I got the Jeep, '00 XJ, cheaper 6 years ago was cause the AC compressor had seized. The PO did not want to deal with it. As a matter of fact I bought the Jeep out of the Jeep Dealerships parking lot from him.
Best I could tell he was the second owner. Guess he was just did not want to spend the money to fix it.
So I rolled with the AC delete for awhile. After I took care of some more important issues I figured I would mess around with the AC.
So first was a boneyard AC compressor. And no I did not vacuum the system. Just threw it on and charged it up. Actually worked good for awhile until the seals started leaking.
So decided to get it done professionally. New compressor, accumulator and the line with the orifice tube. So was told there was no leaks but it never seemed to work right.
So had another garage do the manifold line, they vacuumed it, said there was a small leak, charged it up and threw some dye in.
Well we could not see any die so we could never really tell where the leak was. It kind of comes and goes. Some times the compressor will stay running and cool down to about between 48 and 50 F.
Which is still to warm according to spec. Other times the compressor will keep cycling on and off.
So today with the HF manifold set.
Static Pressure was equal on high and low. 83. Temp outside about 76.
So supposedly that is a good thing.
So my FSM says to check with the Jeep idling at 1000 RPM. So glad I just installed my Ext Idle Switch. LOL.
So the clutch disengages when it hits 20 on the low and 180 on the high. With the temp reading about 50 F with the windows open. Still at an ambient temp of about 76 F.
So I decided to give it a blast of 134R.
Pretty much took a whole can. 12 oz.
Gauges reading 28 low and 225 on the high side. With the AC temp down to about 44 F with an ambient temp of about 78 F at this point.
Clutch staying engaged.
Spec is probably closer 30 on the low side at 78 F.
Tough to tell because the FSM lists temps and ranges.
@70 F. Low side 26 to 35. High side 180 to 240. AC temp 27 to 38 F.
@80 F. Low side 32 to 41. High side 200 to 260. AC temp 33 to 44 F.
But really all I want to do is see how fast it leaks out. If it even does. Like I said sometimes the clutch cycles on and off. Other times not.
Also I have learned, trying to learn about this, that I am not really sure if anybody knows what they are doing out there in internet land. LOL.
One video for just checking the pressure showed away to disconnect the gauges from the car when done. Very specific. I don't know if it matters but nobody else seemed to really do that.
Between adding 134R in small doses to not overcharge, keeping an eye pressure, and then trying to break down the gauge set like in the video mentioned above all I have for you guys is
a shot showing static pressure.
Sorry. LOL
I feel you. My readings were eerily similar to yours and I can't really remember but I THINK my low side number was like over a hundred. I didn't get a chance to do this today, perhaps tomorrow? And, like you, I didn't take pics at all. LOL. Whooops. When I do do this, i'll take some shots so you can help me do this because, I believe I'm about to need it. It seems I'm kind of an AC rock.
In the meantime, she is still ice cold, no matter what the pressures indicate. Of course I don't want to ruin any parts but it's central Florida and I am just happy to have air.
I feel you. My readings were eerily similar to yours and I can't really remember but I THINK my low side number was like over a hundred. I didn't get a chance to do this today, perhaps tomorrow? And, like you, I didn't take pics at all. LOL. Whooops. When I do do this, i'll take some shots so you can help me do this because, I believe I'm about to need it. It seems I'm kind of an AC rock.
In the meantime, she is still ice cold, no matter what the pressures indicate. Of course I don't want to ruin any parts but it's central Florida and I am just happy to have air.
I am the wrong person to be getting help from. But I will do what I can. But I am pretty sue reading over 100 on the low side is way overcharged.
This is the video I used part of cause the guy had a very specific way of removing the manifold gauge set. Which nobody seemed to touch on.
The only things that have not been replaced are the evap core and the condenser. I did not mention it before but I even replaced the high and low pressure switches when I had the new, not remaned, compressor, orifice tube line, and accumulator replaced by the first shop.
I am going to roll for a few days and throw back on the gauge set to see where I am at.
Assuming I am going to lose pressure I think I am going to pull that panel with the striker on it to look at the back of the condenser to see if I can see any dye.
Frankly if I am losing pressure I hope I do. A condenser is a piece of cake compared to an evap core. If it is the evap core I might call it a day.
It is not really doing the evap core that I am worried about, despite how involved it is, but more about replacing the heater core while I am there. Which works just fine best I can tell.
Those damn threads about what brand heater core to buy that pop up from time to time. Almost appears nobody makes a quality one and anything you use could be hit or miss.
So go in there and just replace the evap core? Take a chance on the, what I am guessing, is the original heater core? Screw it and do both taking a chance on getting a heater core that will not crap out in a year? Or just wait till if and when she needs a heater core?
While AC is nice, not super critical to me (I live in CT), this is more a I want everything to work on my Jeep like it is supposed to thing.
I had to drive to the store today to pick up some hardware for today's project and I ran my AC. It was only about 64F this morning.
While idling in the parking at 1000 RPM, already loving my Ext Idle switch, when I came out the temp coming out of the vents read 36F.
Wish I had thought to open the windows. For some strange reason it seems you want them open when try to diagnose AC.
So today I test fit the brush guard I bought last year. I had a feeling that it was a little tweaked. Also last year I eyeballed it and had a feeling I would not be able to run my factory front tow hooks.
Turns out I was right on both counts. At least the driver's side tow hook.
So getting a brush guard on a Jeep by yourself is actually pretty easy. Now remember the brackets were already in place from the tow hooks.
Was really surprised.
So I like it but the section that wraps around the side of the Jeep has different spacing. The passenger side is farther away from the driver's side. Note the holes in the brush are oblong but I have it pushed all the way to the driver's side.
Not sure if you can see it in the pictures. First two.
Anybody have any ideas on how maybe to tweak it back a little?
Was thinking maybe chain it up to a tree and try to pull it with a come-a-long.
Also the tow hook wont bolt in cause of it's width and being right up against part of the brush guard.
Kind of knew that going in. See the third shot.
Anybody have any ideas on this feel free to chime in. I have some thoughts but.......
So also the bumper caps have to be trimmed. Fortunately I have old ones lying around to use for that.
I am trying to not completely cut the bumper cap. I think I can retain everything under that horizontal line on the yellow tape.
Almost thinking about cutting the other old cap, throwing it on and rolling with it like that for a bit.
Since it is bolted on already. LOL.
So I really need to pay more attention when I buy crap off of Craigslist.
Think I figured out what the problem is. The driver's side "arm", the curved part that goes under the Jeep where it bolts is tweaked.
About 1/16" closest to the brush guard all the way to 5/16" where it bolts on underneath.
Assuming my calculations are correct.
Does anybody think mapp gas with a propane torch can heat up 3/16" steel enough to massage it more to where it should be?
So I really need to pay more attention when I buy crap off of Craigslist.
Think I figured out what the problem is. The driver's side "arm", the curved part that goes under the Jeep where it bolts is tweaked.
About 1/16" closest to the brush guard all the way to 5/16" where it bolts on underneath.
Assuming my calculations are correct.
Does anybody think mapp gas with a propane torch can heat up 3/16" steel enough to massage it more to where it should be?
If you have a decent vise or BFH the mapp gas should work fine. It looks like it has rubber trim, if so try and remove that before it melts.
06-07-2019, 04:03 AM
