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On and off I have been working on replacing all rear suspension components on the '91, applying a rust converter as needed and restoring underside paint and undercoating. Fortunately there was only surface rust and very little at that. The front suspension is next.
More details in what has been done so far on the suspension project on the red '91:
* Old Man Emmu 2.5" lift components with one leaf removed to get approximately 2" lift. Using OME 2.5" Ultimate Hybrid kit from DPG. When I got this Jeep it had a terrible and worn lift of unknown origin with +3" in the rear and +4.5" in the front.
* Leaf spring bushings pressed in by heavy duty truck part and repair company. No way could I get those in and local automotive machine shop did not want to try.
* Rear bump stops: 2.9" Crown Automotive p/n 52004297
* SEM 29372 seam sealer as needed on floor pan seams
* Rust-oleum Rust Reformer on lightly rusted components such as floor pan and axle
* Rust-oleum self etching primer on bare metal parts such as uncoated rear bump stop plate and U bolts. Followed by oil based enamel.
* Rust-Oleum oil based protective enamel in semi-gloss black where needed
* Gas tank paint: Eastwood Tank Tone zinc coating
* 3M Professional undercoating as required
Took it out for a test drive with some buddy's yesterday. She did very well, and the only issue was a vac line that I had to seal up. All in all, I'm very happy with the way the new motor is running, and the lift kit rides and flexes nice. I will prob trim the fenders more for when the snow melts and you can get up to the harder areas of the mountains.
Decided to black the bumpers. The caps need rework since they are peel coat. I digress. Old girl looked pretty sharp this evening getting groceries after a quick wash and dry.
looks like tires are in the near future. I was thinking black stelios, but the TJ Moabs really speak to me. I'll take suggestions on 245/75 or 265/70!
Prepped and primed the roof for bed liner, The PO had brushed it with Rustoleum , DON'T DO THAT ... It's like sanding concrete , Wouldn't been so bad if he had sanded and spayed it , But No so I had to pretty much sand every bit of it off . I could have stripped it but I didn't want the mess , I done that with the hood and it was a pain. Got it in black primer I may wet sand tonight IDK I'm old and tired and I have to coat it outside and it is going to be nasty here until Sunday.
Please do yourself a favor a get a Wagner paint eater disc for an angle grinder. I bedlined my roof about 3 or 4 years ago and love it. Por15 first then bedlined. Either way the paint eater disc cut out hours of sanding.
Decided to black the bumpers. The caps need rework since they are peel coat. I digress. Old girl looked pretty sharp this evening getting groceries after a quick wash and dry.
looks like tires are in the near future. I was thinking black stelios, but the TJ Moabs really speak to me. I'll take suggestions on 245/75 or 265/70!
My personal preference is an aggressive style
AT tire in the smaller size. The black bumper looks awesome.
My personal preference is an aggressive style
AT tire in the smaller size. The black bumper looks awesome.
Eric
I'm probably going to ride these out a bit longer, I don't wheel hardly at all, but I will be going to an all terrain in the next several months. And probably with the 245's like you mentioned.
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by 318SixPack
I am looking for the small rectangular ones, not the big honking square ABS ones. Forgot where I got these, not NAPA or the dealer.
You are overthinking this. Those are functionally the same as the ABS relays. If the amperage rating is the same or better, go ahead and use either one. The only exception to that would be if you were trying to plug into an existing socket, or had a space constraint.
Just spent two solid days trying to figure out why my tail lights work when the lights are on but not when I press the brake pedal. Even went after *and couldn't find* the G303 ground which is supposedly under the passenger seat? So boys and girls, I'm here to tell you, there is nothing under my passenger seat except some surface rust that I need to address.
After breaking my will and my back screwing with this I decided to drop it off at my mechanic's shop. It will be worth the couple of hundred dollars this is about to cost me so long as I get my DD legal again.
Does anyone else HATE letting someone else wrench on their XJ? Even when you have no other options?
Just spent two solid days trying to figure out why my tail lights work when the lights are on but not when I press the brake pedal. Even went after *and couldn't find* the G303 ground which is supposedly under the passenger seat? So boys and girls, I'm here to tell you, there is nothing under my passenger seat except some surface rust that I need to address.
After breaking my will and my back screwing with this I decided to drop it off at my mechanic's shop. It will be worth the couple of hundred dollars this is about to cost me so long as I get my DD legal again.
Does anyone else HATE letting someone else wrench on their XJ? Even when you have no other options?
Pretty sure the tail lights are grounded under the drivers side rear panel. As in under the trim where your spare is located
Pretty sure the tail lights are grounded under the drivers side rear panel. As in under the trim where your spare is located
Yep, G304 or G302. I was there, and cleaned up those grounds. Still nothing. Research indicated that G303 was under the passenger seat, and at least in my case, it was not. In any event, still no brake lights. I even ran another brand new ground and a brand new power line to see if I could just splice either one of them into the mix, but no joy either.
There is no rust at all on my quarter panels. This vehicle has never been north of the Florida state line. In fact I was kinda shocked to find any rust at all when I pulled the carpet but yeah, it's a 22 year old Jeep after all.
I thought that my problems were mostly because of some botched trailer hitch wiring, which I removed--nope. Plus I replaced all of the physical sockets and redid all that wiring with shrink wrap, etc. These reasons are why I'm calling no joy at the end of the day.
Yep, G304 or G302. I was there, and cleaned up those grounds. Still nothing. Research indicated that G303 was under the passenger seat, and at least in my case, it was not. In any event, still no brake lights. I even ran another brand new ground and a brand new power line to see if I could just splice either one of them into the mix, but no joy either.
There is no rust at all on my quarter panels. This vehicle has never been north of the Florida state line. In fact I was kinda shocked to find any rust at all when I pulled the carpet but yeah, it's a 22 year old Jeep after all.
I thought that my problems were mostly because of some botched trailer hitch wiring, which I removed--nope. Plus I replaced all of the physical sockets and redid all that wiring with shrink wrap, etc. These reasons are why I'm calling no joy at the end of the day.
Yeah I have no grounds under my seat in my 99. On second thought if the ground in the rear was bad I'd assume youd have problems with whatever else is grounded there. Very weird, I'd still bet it has something to do with that white connector, but sometimes it isnt worth driving yourself crazy. Good luck.
You are overthinking this. Those are functionally the same as the ABS relays. If the amperage rating is the same or better, go ahead and use either one. The only exception to that would be if you were trying to plug into an existing socket, or had a space constraint.
Fitting into the same socket that the old relay was removed from is pretty important here.
02-03-2020, 10:20 AM
