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So I'm just about sick of the calipers giving me grief after recent brake adjustments and I'm going to replace them with some new ones today. I can not get them to stop rubbing and anyways, I've been meaning to get some new ones. Off to the parts store in a bit. I was able to change out the tranny lines with little effort so that's one thing down...
Doubt there is anything up there unless you put them there.
I think the eyelet that Morat is talking about looks like this.
That is the rear tow hook set up for an XJ.
I am under the impression that older ones, like '96 and down, came with them on the front tow hooks too.
But instead of using the tow hook with the big base used a regular one with the smaller base.
Shot off the internet of the big base ones.
Example of a small base one.
Doubt there is anything up there unless you put them there.
I think the eyelet that Morat is talking about looks like this.
That is the rear tow hook set up for an XJ.
I am under the impression that older ones, like '96 and down, came with them on the front tow hooks too.
But instead of using the tow hook with the big base used a regular one with the smaller base.
Shot off the internet of the big base ones.
Example of a small base one.
Yeah but I can't just buy a $10 hook right? I mean you need to support the hook on something. I have seen some tow hook sets cost $150 because they come with some crazy brackets and such.
If it's going to cost that much I'm going to pass.
So I'm just about sick of the calipers giving me grief after recent brake adjustments and I'm going to replace them with some new ones today. I can not get them to stop rubbing and anyways, I've been meaning to get some new ones. Off to the parts store in a bit. I was able to change out the tranny lines with little effort so that's one thing down...
Do the hoses too if you are going to buy new calipers. Sometimes the hose is really where the problem lies and not the calipers.
Originally Posted by Remo73
Yeah but I can't just buy a $10 hook right? I mean you need to support the hook on something. I have seen some tow hook sets cost $150 because they come with some crazy brackets and such.
If it's going to cost that much I'm going to pass.
Yeah $150 for a used factory set up is nuts. I want to say I paid $75 for mine shipped and that included everything in that picture.
And I think that was a little to much. But I really wanted them so..... LOL.
Just have to be persistent and you will find them somewhere at a reasonable price.
Do the hoses too if you are going to buy new calipers. Sometimes the hose is really where the problem lies and not the calipers.
Yeah $150 for a used factory set up is nuts. I want to say I paid $75 for mine shipped and that included everything in that picture.
And I think that was a little to much. But I really wanted them so..... LOL.
Just have to be persistent and you will find them somewhere at a reasonable price.
Meh I wish I had seen this before I went to the store. I agree I do need to change out the lines, but I'm going to order some braided SS ones I think. For now, got new calipers and pads for install. The rotors are not marred and only have 8 or 10K miles on them.
Meh I wish I had seen this before I went to the store. I agree I do need to change out the lines, but I'm going to order some braided SS ones I think. For now, got new calipers and pads for install. The rotors are not marred and only have 8 or 10K miles on them.
I am one those "well while we are here" types.
Of course it can get a little expensive and you have to draw the line somewhere.
I have read things like the hose collapses and fluid stays to the caliper keeping the piston pushed out.
Stuff like that.
My thinking is if I am doing a caliper I have to bleed the line.
Since I am going to have to bleed the line I am replacing the rubber hose.
And going to give a long hard look at my hard line from the master cylinder.
Cause if I even think it might cause a problem it is going bye bye.
Do it, button it up, and hoepfully never worry about it again. LOL.
I am one those "well while we are here" types.
Of course it can get a little expensive and you have to draw the line somewhere.
I have read things like the hose collapses and fluid stays to the caliper keeping the piston pushed out.
Stuff like that.
My thinking is if I am doing a caliper I have to bleed the line.
Since I am going to have to bleed the line I am replacing the rubber hose.
And going to give a long hard look at my hard line from the master cylinder.
Cause if I even think it might cause a problem it is going bye bye.
Do it, button it up, and hoepfully never worry about it again. LOL.
I guess I'm a little OCD about this rig but not enough to worry about the master cylinder until it becomes a glaring issue. To be honest, I'm not really well read on brakes in general and it's something I actually dread doing.
It would be nice if I could find time to replace the drivers' window regulator today. Not sure now... may have to wait till the weekend.
I guess I'm a little OCD about this rig but not enough to worry about the master cylinder until it becomes a glaring issue. To be honest, I'm not really well read on brakes in general and it's something I actually dread doing.
It would be nice if I could find time to replace the drivers' window regulator today. Not sure now... may have to wait till the weekend.
Was talking about the hard line to the master cylinder not the master cylinder it self.
Piece of cake on a driver side front door in an '97 and up.
I can do one in 20 minutes when the window is in the up position.
Maybe even 15 minutes.
Never did one with the window down though.
Unfortunately I have had the pleasure of doing it 3 times cause the Dorman regulators I get suck.
First one lasted 6 months. Second one 6 years. I am on my third one.
They come with a lifetime warranty from my Napa and cause it is easy enough never really sweat it.
But I think if this one blows I am going to buy the AC Delco one.
You have to understand that I'm dealing with the oppressive central Florida heat in the middle of summer while simultaneously dodging afternoon thunderstorms. So this makes my 2 hour job last all day. For instance, I'm inside in the AC waiting on this storm to pass right now.
Currently about 1/2 way there. I bought the Oreilly brand remanned calipers with the phenolic resin piston vs the metal one. Aside from it being slightly lighter I can't tell the difference. I guess when I get them bled and broken in I'll have more of an idea.
I did get some new pads--they were out of ceramic pads so I bought semi-metalic--and I'll be damned, the pads actually fit on the rotor without exhausting my curse word vocabulary for the day. I'm thinking I shouldn't have put ceramic brakes on this thing in the first place? IDK. There's a lot of trial and error in this rig build, for sure.
So for a couple of days I was experimenting driving without the front sway bar installed, and I decided that Jeep engineers are obviously smarter than I am and reinstalled it today. This is a mall crawler pretty much and I have to swerve to avoid accidents almost daily due to my living near and working in a retirement community with a LOT of terrible elderly drivers around. Perhaps if I had bigger tires I wouldn't need a sway bar, but it just feels safer with it on there.
No disrespect to my elders intended here or anywhere else, but I feel like if you're 90 years old you probably have no business driving a car these days. I'm just saying there are a few medical episodes and stuff to navigate around here.
Also fixed my toe angle and centered the steering wheel. Looks like tomorrow I'm going after the instrument cluster connection again, which is being vibrated out due to my cheap motor mounts. I ordered some Brown Dog ones. They are due sometime this week.
Lots of drivers 40 years old should not be allowed to drive.
I think they key is balance. Driving tests should be given at every renewal once you are 40.
Drivers should get better as they progress but most seem to think they already know it all at 25.
So I spent a half a day trying in vein to bleed my new calipers before I realized that they are *side specific* and I had them on the wrong side as evidenced by the bleeder valve on bottom and not on top. They would never bleed this way because, science...air rises to the top...
But I figured that out, swapped them out, and what do you know, they actually bled like they are supposed to. Amazing.
AudioFreq: agree on the over 40 thing. My eyesight is getting worse at 46 and I am not sure even I would pass an eye test.
put in a new e-fan the other day.... the original one finally gave up the ghost after 21 years.... motor was fine...but somehow it cracked completely in half right between two fan blades...
Went to turn on my a/c (that I never use) because my gf was with me... and she doesn't like the 2/60 A/C I typically use.... then it was followed by a really fun noise... before this.. I think I had used the defrost like 2 times when I lived in colder climates... here in the south now and more need for a/c. It could've been broken for a long time and I never knew it because not only did I never use the a/c...but so far (knock on wood)... motor has never gotten hot enough for the e-fan to need to come on due to temp.
It was so loud when it broke I honestly thought the clutch on the a/c compressor self destructed. I was very blessed that it was only the e-fan... inexpensive replacement is working perfect so far. And way cheaper than fricking compressor replacement.
Last edited by RocketMouse; 07-31-2020 at 02:47 PM.
07-30-2020, 10:14 AM
