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Having lived and driven in the Northeast rust belt my entire life (and I'm no spring chicken) I'm no stranger to patching rusty floors, frequently much worse than what I'm looking at on my XJ. (I've had some real Fred Flintstone-mobiles over the years!) I've always used pop-riveted patch panels for floor repairs. Today though I found this video suggesting to use fiberglass:
Hmmm... looks like it's certainly easier to form than metal patch panels and no drilling required. Anyone here try doing it that way?
Also, what's the best way to get out that rubber mat that's in the center of the floor pan? It seems to be glued in there pretty good. (Heat gun?) I want to treat the entire floor with rust-resistant paint while in there. To stay on-topic, today I cleaned up grease and dirt from the underside of the affected area so undercoating will adhere to it after the repair is done and I'm continuing to let a fan run in there to thoroughly dry everything out.
Finished assembling brake parts after finding some bubu under there. While I was in there I flushed the brakes through to nice clean fluid. I almost drank the coffee that came out, but it seemed a little dark and I'm not into espresso.
I got tired of hearing ours rattle so I put a temporary block of wood between the rear hanger and the pipe then jacked up the exhaust just South of the trans mount.
Fits perfectly, now ^^
I swear I've been swearing and sweating this rattle for the longest time. I guess you do whatever is necessary to get that darn pipe of the cross member huh... has anyone ground out or cut out the slight part of the crossmember where it would contact that pipe, and is that even feasible or advisable?
The Rapter Liner arrived. Definitely going on on Monday afternoon, and my buddy wants to film it so I may be able to link some youz toob or something depending on the rules here I guess. Of course I will also be taking some pics.
But before all that, while running 3 fantasy football leagues and trying to watch some games in between, I'll be putting in that tranny mount and the just arrived "new" exhaust hanger, which, incidentally, is in really good shape and was a steal for $20 shipped.
I *WILL* solve this rattle problem one way or another.
I swear I've been swearing and sweating this rattle for the longest time. I guess you do whatever is necessary to get that darn pipe of the cross member huh... has anyone ground out or cut out the slight part of the crossmember where it would contact that pipe, and is that even feasible or advisable?
The Rapter Liner arrived. Definitely going on on Monday afternoon, and my buddy wants to film it so I may be able to link some youz toob or something depending on the rules here I guess. Of course I will also be taking some pics.
But before all that, while running 3 fantasy football leagues and trying to watch some games in between, I'll be putting in that tranny mount and the just arrived "new" exhaust hanger, which, incidentally, is in really good shape and was a steal for $20 shipped.
I *WILL* solve this rattle problem one way or another.
The PO backed into something and killed their tail pipe and it appears they ended up tearing it off just behind the axle. I figure I had little to lose since it will need redone from bow to stern eventually, anyway.
rust cut it away Pull-Apart Special...took my sawzall into the salvage yard and butchered a candyapple green '96; need the replacement panel intact on three sides.... backside of panel facing fuel tank Fit.........before spot welding...
Last edited by Brunette Mom's Hubby; 09-28-2020 at 10:16 AM.
Reason: clarity
When I got mine my electric cooling fan had been chopped up and wired to a switch in the dash that didn't work. For expedience I pinned it to hot-run so it was always running.
Tonight I moved the wires around to clean up the spaghetti, and turned over control of the fan to my REM Monitor. Much nicer that way.
But I'm still not getting all the way up to temp, so further evidence that the hack job also included removing the thermostat. I have all the parts for the cooling system rebuild, I just have to find my round tuit.
Installed and started the jeep only to have it leak worse than before. Started to take it back out. When I removed the electric fa I found the bottom hose had no clamp. Clamped the hose and no more leak. I'll wait until tomorrow to put the fan in.
Getting ready to install a new high pressure side power steering pump line on my 99 4.0L
any recommendations on the fluid to use?
Thinking I recall guys talking about using some fancy power steering fluids.
Redline, Lucas, Amsoil, Royal Purple, etc.
I just use the Napa crap. LOL.
One thing I did start doing a couple years ago is every April I suck what I can out of the reservoir
and replace it. Want to say the little 12 ounce bottle is all you need.
Now that I have my REM II I see I'm getting synthetic check engine light for TPS.
I started to follow Cruiser54's TPS adjust tip, but I didn't make it past the first step. I kept getting 40 ohms in the ground circuit. My that time it was dark out, so I'll start with the grounding tips ASAP.
I was pretty shocked to see that result because it runs pretty great. Current complaints are questionable coolant temp and oil pressure readings, low power at very high rpms, and three to five second crank time to start. The power bit probably has to do with feeding a 4 liter engine through a throttle body about half the diameter of that on my 2.2 liter engine. The rest is probably 30 year old wiring.
09-24-2020, 09:45 PM
