What did you do to your Cherokee today?
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
Jumped on the Pat wagon, I see. How do you like them so far!?
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Well my goal of not having to work on my Jeep till Spring lasted about a week.
Couple days ago went to hit the rear wiper and the switch felt funny.
Wiper did not move. Funny though when pushing the switch all the way the wiper and washer would engage.
So I guess technically I did not have to fix it if I did not want too. LOL.
But I I have extra switches up the ying yang and it is only a 5 minute job so.....
Looks melted to me.
You do have to look close.
One of the springs was deformed and a little piece of plastic must have broken off from somewhere.
See what the screwdriver is pointing too.
Couple days ago went to hit the rear wiper and the switch felt funny.
Wiper did not move. Funny though when pushing the switch all the way the wiper and washer would engage.
So I guess technically I did not have to fix it if I did not want too. LOL.
But I I have extra switches up the ying yang and it is only a 5 minute job so.....
Looks melted to me.
You do have to look close.
One of the springs was deformed and a little piece of plastic must have broken off from somewhere.
See what the screwdriver is pointing too.
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AudioFreq (11-04-2020)
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Battle (11-04-2020)
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L 6
Replaced TPS, leaking booster check valve, and flushed heater core. CEL kicked itself off after a short drive around.
just realized how turd that picture is.
just realized how turd that picture is.
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
Started getting random codes for the tps so I replaced it with one off the shelf. Waiting on payday to pick up a new output shaft seal and order a new teraflex speed sensor.
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: i-6
Finally attacked the rear wiper motor. Found the hose pass-through was broken and the hose was tied off inside. Looks as if the previous owner tried to J-B Weld it back on. >_>
The PO also did some shoddy rewiring where the hatch grommets should be so I redid all of that wiring properly. Seems that many people really do not understand you can burn a vehicle to the ground with poor wiring repairs.
They had nice, seamless butt connectors and still blew it. The best intentions do not matter... Anyhow, I digress.
Also found two of the wires ready to break and repaired those and re-wrapped it all with hockey tape.
Fortunately all of the wiring problems were to the wiper Molex, only.
After silicone and RemOil, the wiper arm has great blade pressure once again.
Next I will be finding a pair of regular ole grommets and cutting them so I can RTV them to the taped wiring and in place. Hopefully, the water will not directly go into the hatch or roof area as bad.
Donor motor.
Just general a daily driver, PITA because this donor motor and HW came from the donor vehicle hatch.
Due to hail dings on the top; I will be swapping all of this into that hatch prior to the UPOL white.
The PO also did some shoddy rewiring where the hatch grommets should be so I redid all of that wiring properly. Seems that many people really do not understand you can burn a vehicle to the ground with poor wiring repairs.
They had nice, seamless butt connectors and still blew it. The best intentions do not matter... Anyhow, I digress.
Also found two of the wires ready to break and repaired those and re-wrapped it all with hockey tape.
Fortunately all of the wiring problems were to the wiper Molex, only.
After silicone and RemOil, the wiper arm has great blade pressure once again.
Next I will be finding a pair of regular ole grommets and cutting them so I can RTV them to the taped wiring and in place. Hopefully, the water will not directly go into the hatch or roof area as bad.
Donor motor.
Just general a daily driver, PITA because this donor motor and HW came from the donor vehicle hatch.
Due to hail dings on the top; I will be swapping all of this into that hatch prior to the UPOL white.
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Year: 2000
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Best I can tell the part is not available new anymore. 55154942AB.
Mine was broken and I replaced it about 6 years ago. Thinking I got the last one.
I have this idea that if it ever breaks again and I can't find a boneyard one is to try this:
https://www.autozone.com/fittings-an...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
Maybe one of them would be the right size for the hose, maybe have to drill it out a bit, and a little RTV to seal it up some.
Also think that part of a Bic Pen, the old school classic one, might work.
The part inside the casing that holds the ink.
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AudioFreq (11-06-2020)
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I'll be curious what you do/did about the grommet that goes in between the hatch and that plastic piece (55000302). You can still buy that piece but not the grommet/seal.
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AudioFreq (11-06-2020)
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https://www.factorychryslerparts.com.../55154612.html
I always figured you could use some FelPro gasket material and make your own.
Funny how you can still get the washer bezel, 55000302, for the '96 and down but can't get the same part for the '97 and up new.
I wonder exactly what the difference is and if it would work anyway.
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AudioFreq (11-06-2020)
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You talking about this?
https://www.factorychryslerparts.com.../55154612.html
I always figured you could use some FelPro gasket material and make your own.
Funny how you can still get the washer bezel, 55000302, for the '96 and down but can't get the same part for the '97 and up new.
I wonder exactly what the difference is and if it would work anyway.
https://www.factorychryslerparts.com.../55154612.html
I always figured you could use some FelPro gasket material and make your own.
Funny how you can still get the washer bezel, 55000302, for the '96 and down but can't get the same part for the '97 and up new.
I wonder exactly what the difference is and if it would work anyway.
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Thinking it was in good shape just cause I don't remember much about it. LOL.
There is one thing that sticks in my head.
It wasn't just a flat piece. Did have a lip that the bezel fits into.
Still thinking gasket material could be made to work here.
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: i-6
Did you fix this?
Best I can tell the part is not available new anymore. 55154942AB.
Mine was broken and I replaced it about 6 years ago. Thinking I got the last one.
I have this idea that if it ever breaks again and I can't find a boneyard one is to try this:
https://www.autozone.com/fittings-an...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
Maybe one of them would be the right size for the hose, maybe have to drill it out a bit, and a little RTV to seal it up some.
Also think that part of a Bic Pen, the old school classic one, might work.
The part inside the casing that holds the ink.
Best I can tell the part is not available new anymore. 55154942AB.
Mine was broken and I replaced it about 6 years ago. Thinking I got the last one.
I have this idea that if it ever breaks again and I can't find a boneyard one is to try this:
https://www.autozone.com/fittings-an...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
Maybe one of them would be the right size for the hose, maybe have to drill it out a bit, and a little RTV to seal it up some.
Also think that part of a Bic Pen, the old school classic one, might work.
The part inside the casing that holds the ink.
Those hard parts might be workable with some JB weld if you drill the pass through out of the bezel and trim them.
At least it is not hard to see if the hose is still attached from outside the vehicle at the JY. That one cap nut is all that needs to be removed to feel if it is attached or not.
Last edited by AudioFreq; 11-06-2020 at 04:37 AM.
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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I had good gaskets on both rigs (2000 models) so I just washed and put silicone on them.
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Spencer_P (11-06-2020)
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Year: 94
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 H.O.
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AudioFreq (11-09-2020)