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New to the forum here. My 16 year old son just purchased a 2006 Grand Cherokee Laredo and the TPMS light is on; I checked all tires and the pressures are fine. I want to reset the TPMS but I am not exactly sure where the reset button is. Everything I read says right below the steering wheel but not sure where exactly this means. Also I am looking for a low cost TPMS reset tool for Jeeps but haven't had any luck. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance.
Odometer rolled over to 140,000 today. Removed the oil filter adapter, cleaned it, and then put new seals in.
Also an oil change with a quart of MMO. Do you guys run MMO for 5000 miles? I'm planning on only running it a couple hundred then switch to Rotella.
Finally dropped my fuel tank. I've never seen so much dirt and mud lol. Those j bolts are an absolute son of a *****. Not to mention having a wheelbarrow full of dirt in my face. Was going to just cut them but fought on and eventually got them loose enough. Didn't change the pump yet but getting there. Then the leafs will be next. So busy now progress is extremely slow. Having xj withdrawals. Oh still need to do the solenoids in the transmission but that should be easy compared to the rest of this stuff.
Hope everyone is doing well.
Despite treating the J bolts with PB Blaster and hitting the threads with a wire brush, mine were so cruddy that the first one was twisted into a cork screw by the time I got the nuts off. Just took a Sawzall to the second one.
today
No brake lights, Funky turn signals, erratic. No dash indicators. No hazards.
Checked all fuses and bulbs, replaced as needed. Replaced brake switch, got brake lights working.
Then replaced flasher relay, got left turn indicator working
then replaced turn signal switch, fixed the rest, including hazards.
Everything works now.
Today's the day I dive into the engine bay again to replace the intake manifold and fuel line to fuel rail.
She keeps throwing that P0201 code erratically every other day. Symptoms include rough idle and several degrees hotter than it should be. Based on this I am assuming that the #1 injector is toast. Putting a long flathead screwdriver on said injector and up to my ear produces a different pulsing sound than the other injectors I tested. Almost sounds/feels like it's only pulsing about half as much as the other ones. So, I'll switch it out for another one that I have laying around in my tool box. For the long term I ordered some sweet new injectors from Clegg Engine that are supposed to be specifically for strokers. We'll see if she likes them better. I don't know but it seems like even rebuilt "new" injectors should last more than a year even in the oven that is the engine bay.
I just CAN'T WAIT to torque those lower manifold bolts, I'll tell you what.
Still: a bad day wrenching beats a good day at work. I'll be sure to throw some pics up later...
Today I finished up my soundproofing project...72sqft of Noico 80mil butyl deadening on the doors, hood, hatch, and cargo area, double layered on the wheel wells, and 72sqft Noico 150mil closed cell foam on top of all of it. Also replaced front door seals with ZJ seals (larger, thicker) and added a silicone secondary seal to it. In cabin SPL at idle A weighted went from 59db before all the way down to 51db. Noise on highway is still higher than I'd like at 72db, considering adding thick jute with spray adhesive to the underside of the plastic wheel liners...
As to front fenders; Always pull the plastic and hit the metal.
I was able to deaden a mk2 Gti 16v to attenuate the sound measured OUTSIDE for IASCA Pro 251-500w. I ended up -31 Db with the system cranked to around 140Db.
The noise floor inside the vehicle dropped about 18 Db at 70 mph with windows up.
Odometer rolled over to 140,000 today. Removed the oil filter adapter, cleaned it, and then put new seals in.
Also an oil change with a quart of MMO. Do you guys run MMO for 5000 miles? I'm planning on only running it a couple hundred then switch to Rotella.
At 330k miles we have been using mobil 1 15k for 90k miles and love it. About 27.00 per change including their filter.
We change it at about 12k. Fully exceeds zinc content requirements for 2000 Freedom.
I am no mathematician but seems far more cost effective than 5k oils,
Today's the day I dive into the engine bay again to replace the intake manifold and fuel line to fuel rail.
She keeps throwing that P0201 code erratically every other day. Symptoms include rough idle and several degrees hotter than it should be. Based on this I am assuming that the #1 injector is toast. Putting a long flathead screwdriver on said injector and up to my ear produces a different pulsing sound than the other injectors I tested. Almost sounds/feels like it's only pulsing about half as much as the other ones. So, I'll switch it out for another one that I have laying around in my tool box. For the long term I ordered some sweet new injectors from Clegg Engine that are supposed to be specifically for strokers. We'll see if she likes them better. I don't know but it seems like even rebuilt "new" injectors should last more than a year even in the oven that is the engine bay.
I just CAN'T WAIT to torque those lower manifold bolts, I'll tell you what.
Still: a bad day wrenching beats a good day at work. I'll be sure to throw some pics up later...
Welcome to our 121 year old basement.
Using Por 15 tintable bed liner on the body but ..
Great Dane white gloss paint (GQ1413) for the jambs and everywhere else where we do not want the liner or in spots where it is too problematic to apply bed liner.
Also got four cans of the flat black (1433) to use as undercoating.
At this rate I should have considered a gallon of it to do the body.
16 ounce cans <9 dollars ea.
One can did the bottom of the teal donor hood and has incredible adhesion and is self leveling.
If you want it to be a mirror you will need a spray gun. Though it covers well you cannot lay it down fast enough to tie it the previous sweep cleanly.
So instead of fighting the bottom of a donor hood I went for a matte finish on those hot spots.
Scotchbrited, Prep-All'ed and tack clothed. All rtg.
It WILL mirror easily (seen on the frame near center of image) from the spray cans on smaller things than a hood.
Was planning on leaving it teal but am glad I fought it, now.
We have two new looking latches (now flat black) to go on it. The cable catch and actuator wire are also flat black.
Took hours of soaking and an M18 impact on mode 2 to remove the torx bolts.
The top is already 2k primered and ready for final sanding/wash and top coat.
Last edited by AudioFreq; 05-12-2021 at 11:58 AM.
Reason: saf
I was actually considering cutting my hood a little due to some contact with the upper rad hose (the MML makes the entire motor 1 inch taller). Not like a hole in the hood, just the cross brace in about a 4 inch section near where it hits the hose. I figure someone on here will stop me if this is a terrible idea.
I was actually considering cutting my hood a little due to some contact with the upper rad hose (the MML makes the entire motor 1 inch taller). Not like a hole in the hood, just the cross brace in about a 4 inch section near where it hits the hose. I figure someone on here will stop me if this is a terrible idea.
Come in contact with or actually squeezing down on the hose?
And as I typed that it did dawn on me that how can you really know. LOL.
Probably OK to cut the hood but if it were me I would try some split loom.
Like what I did here.
Where it comes in contact with the battery.
But I do hear that if you trim down the hose, Napa one there, a little it helps clear the battery.
Today's the day I dive into the engine bay again to replace the intake manifold and fuel line to fuel rail.
She keeps throwing that P0201 code erratically every other day. Symptoms include rough idle and several degrees hotter than it should be. Based on this I am assuming that the #1 injector is toast. Putting a long flathead screwdriver on said injector and up to my ear produces a different pulsing sound than the other injectors I tested. Almost sounds/feels like it's only pulsing about half as much as the other ones. So, I'll switch it out for another one that I have laying around in my tool box. For the long term I ordered some sweet new injectors from Clegg Engine that are supposed to be specifically for strokers. We'll see if she likes them better. I don't know but it seems like even rebuilt "new" injectors should last more than a year even in the oven that is the engine bay.
I just CAN'T WAIT to torque those lower manifold bolts, I'll tell you what.
Still: a bad day wrenching beats a good day at work. I'll be sure to throw some pics up later...
When I did my complete exhaust lately, torqued 1 and 5 from under the Jeep. Used my 3/8 torque wrench and had no issues.
05-11-2021, 06:44 AM
2006 Grand Cherokee Laredo
