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Like I said, I'm very fortunate, certainly when it comes to health issues - although I'm not as strong as I was, so the time might come . . .
Today,after my Saturday morning ritual: a 70 mile drive round my local National Park I investigated the knocking sound seeming to come from the rt. rear wheel, but only when coasting. Apart from the to be expected 150,000 mile play in the diff I didn't find anything. However, I was surprised at how loose the drum was so, perhaps 'cos it was like a Spring day, I thought I might as well take it off, just to have a look see. Glad I did, as the leading edge of the lining on the right shoe had worn away for an inch or so. Rest of the lining was at the point I'd think about new shoes anyway, but the other shoe had nowhere near that much wear. Now uneven wear on drum brakes is not so common - & they've not done more'n 20,000 miles. 2 things occurred to me, maybe on account of their age it had started to delaminate, Jeep e-brake linings on rear disc models seem prone to that or, did I not set up the e=brake as well as I thought I had? Anyway, rummaging around in the garage produced a shoe perhaps a little less worn bur, importantly, evenly. Now XJ back brakes are a pet hate but something had to be done as a stopgap. In the event, not as bad as I feared, of course I was only doing one - & I'd left off the (useless) auto adjustment for the e-brake.
I s'pose, just as a precaution, I'd better have a look at the other side tomorrow, which wasn't the plan at all. .
Might want to try that auto adjuster.
Bought a 3/4" drive breaker bar just so I would stop breaking the 1/2"ers with my bare hands. Pain returning them 40 miles from the store.
Once a navy rescue swimmer.. ...always.
Total price $104 with tax. I'm saving about 40% over similar kits going the DIY route. I already own a hydraulic crimper so that'll make quality connections easy. Hopefully will have this done next Friday when everything arrives.
Total price $104 with tax. I'm saving about 40% over similar kits going the DIY route. I already own a hydraulic crimper so that'll make quality connections easy. Hopefully will have this done next Friday when everything arrives.
I used the same thread as a basis for mine in my '00 too.
Made a few changes though.
Put the mega fuse in front of the PDC cause I could. You can't with some of the older ones.
Also used 45 and 90 degree lugs in other places to hopefully route better which I think it did.
Also used a 45 degree one for the ground on the block.
Used a 90 degree with the starter but in hindsight probably should have used a 45 degree.
Really can't get a thick walled socket on there but can with a thinner one so.....
I am cleaning out my garage and found this jumper cable kit that I got for $9.99 at Menards a long time ago. I could have used this in lieu of the $60 2-AWG kit (which is more than my stock beast needs lol).
Last edited by User Unknown; 03-19-2023 at 03:03 PM.
Might want to try that auto adjuster.
Bought a 3/4" drive breaker bar just so I would stop breaking the 1/2"ers with my bare hands. Pain returning them 40 miles from the store.
Once a navy rescue swimmer.. ...always.
No auto adjuster on this one (good riddance to bad rubbish says I).
The other side also had similar damage to one lining, but to nothing like the same extent - & both shoes were equally worn. More of a concern was the deep groove in both linings from the wear ridge on the drum, not something I've seen before, but then the ridge was very narrow, bit like an old, blunt knife blade. Removed that with a flap wheel, but seems like new rear brakes about a month before inspection in the Summer, assuming no further deterioration. Right now, there are more pressing demands on my time & money.
I have a 3/4" drive breaker bar, bought it to go with some insanely large socket but only used it that once. Trouble is you need a 3/4" drive socket set, 'cos if you use one of those adaptors you'll prob'ly twist off the ./2" square.
No auto adjuster on this one (good riddance to bad rubbish says I).
The other side also had similar damage to one lining, but to nothing like the same extent - & both shoes were equally worn. More of a concern was the deep groove in both linings from the wear ridge on the drum, not something I've seen before, but then the ridge was very narrow, bit like an old, blunt knife blade. Removed that with a flap wheel, but seems like new rear brakes about a month before inspection in the Summer, assuming no further deterioration. Right now, there are more pressing demands on my time & money.
I have a 3/4" drive breaker bar, bought it to go with some insanely large socket but only used it that once. Trouble is you need a 3/4" drive socket set, 'cos if you use one of those adaptors you'll prob'ly twist off the ./2" square.
Mine is mostly for other people's rigs. Like pals with Air cooled VW's that need the rear axle nuts removed. ~275 ft pounds where the max on a 1/2" drive is around 300 ft pounds. Easy to break.
It's a jumper pack so you don't need another car around to get yours started.
It's also a light.
It's also a battery pack for your small electronic devices that charge using either USB-A or USB-C like your mobile phone.
Brand is Hulkman. It can provide up to 2000 amps to get a car, truck, heck maybe even a big diesel semi or a tractor started.
The thing is like Hulk in a smaller package.
Mine is mostly for other people's rigs. Like pals with Air cooled VW's that need the rear axle nuts removed. ~275 ft pounds where the max on a 1/2" drive is around 300 ft pounds. Easy to break.
Yeah, I was thinking VW axle nuts (especially Typ3 2's) although I'd moved on to Citroens, & their front hub nuts, by then. By way of contrast, did a front axleshaft on a KJ recently - not in the same league!
I am cleaning out my garage and found this jumper cable kit that I got for $9.99 at Menards a long time ago. I could have used this in lieu of the $60 2-AWG kit (which is more than my stock beast needs lol).
I thought of that too but then read that the cables used for jumper cables are kinda crappy even if they are a heavier gauge.
True or not who knows.
I didn't need 2 gauge for mine either but pricing it out at my store it cost me 15 cents more a foot then the 4 gauge.
So I pretty much said for the $4, or so more, screw it.
LOL.
Mine is mostly for other people's rigs. Like pals with Air cooled VW's that need the rear axle nuts removed. ~275 ft pounds where the max on a 1/2" drive is around 300 ft pounds. Easy to break.
I hated those damn things. my '71 Super beetle had a nasty habit of sheering the splines off the driver side drum.
I thought of that too but then read that the cables used for jumper cables are kinda crappy even if they are a heavier gauge.
True or not who knows.
I didn't need 2 gauge for mine either but pricing it out at my store it cost me 15 cents more a foot then the 4 gauge.
So I pretty much said for the $4, or so more, screw it.
LOL.
I hear that.
The more strands they use; The easier they are to handle in cold temperatures.
Usually they have like 12 strands and are about the same stiffness at 70° F as they are at 0° F. >_>.
But... you CAN stand them up in the corner of the garage.
03-19-2023, 08:01 AM
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