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Had some time today to knock out some projects. First thing was to replace the trans mount. Very simple task. I was hoping to see a ripped old mount and it actually wasn't torn but was definitely OE. I hope this fixes the "kick" I feel when accelerating hard at fast speeds. If I softly apply power I don't hear it. U-joints feel solid. Transfer case rear bearing have some lateral movement.
For the cables I followed BroncoMan's guidance in this thread here. His measurements are spot on. I purchased
($65) from Amazon and it comes with heavy duty 5/16 and 3/8 lugs but you'll need one more set of each size; thankfully I already have an assortment kit on-hand along with my hydraulic lug crimper. I did not have to modify the lug end that attaches to the alternator. I did though bend the starter lug almost 90 degrees (I suggest buying a 90-degree lug). I did also install a 150-Amp Mega fuse. All of the components i touched were wire brushed and coated with some https://a.co/d/1GVIgpe contact cleaner. The ground bolt on the fender was shot so I drilled a hole near the old one and installed a M8 rivnut. Next project will be to install a 100-Amp continuous duty relay to supply the audio Amp that seems to be hot all the time. I don't like that.
Getting ready to install a Curt hitch from eTrailer; should be coming in next week. Wondering if it’ll be an easier to drop the gas tank to make it any easier as I don’t have a lift. 1st time install - hopefully can haul around some organs to repair soon on my 40 year old 8X10’ trailer. Motor mounts after that then front wheel bearings 😊
Getting ready to install a Curt hitch from eTrailer; should be coming in next week. Wondering if it’ll be an easier to drop the gas tank to make it any easier as I don’t have a lift. 1st time install - hopefully can haul around some organs to repair soon on my 40 year old 8X10’ trailer. Motor mounts after that then front wheel bearings 😊
I don't know how different a '96 is from a '99 but the tank is not really in the way at all. I don't have a lift and I can have the receiver hitch on or off rather quickly. You should be fine.
. I did though bend the starter lug almost 90 degrees (I suggest buying a 90-degree lug). I did also install a 150-Amp Mega fuse. The ground bolt on the fender was shot so I drilled a hole near the old one and installed a M8 rivnut.
Like I said using 45 and 90 degree lugs here and there worked out well with routing IMO.
Thing is that they are not available locally. At least where I live. Couldn't even get them through my Napa best I could tell.
Had to order them online.
I read somewhere that you go to the next available size bigger for the fuse.
I had my guy rebuild a stock alternator and up the amps. He said it was able to get it to just shy of 155 amps.
So I used the next size up which is 175 amp.
I had same problem with the fender ground too. Thought about using a rivnut also but was afraid that the ground might not be the best.
I cleaned up the fender and used a couple washers, a lock washer, a nut, a bolt, and couple of those prickly star washer things.
Cause of that square hole there was able to nut from the back.
Who says those little ignition wrenches that Craftsman includes in their wrench sets to up the count are useless.
LOL.
Also whenever I remove the battery I don't take the terminals off.
I remove the cables from them.
Seems to work out OK doing it that way so......
Thank you for the update Mr. Minimalist! I guess I’ll find out next week if I survive the medical procedure I have to go through on Monday. Wish me luck 😊.
Thank you for the update Mr. Minimalist! I guess I’ll find out next week if I survive the medical procedure I have to go through on Monday. Wish me luck 😊.
Good luck! Most of us have challenges in life. My most recent is I was informed last week that my job will be eliminated in 90 days. Ugh.
Had some time today to knock out some projects. First thing was to replace the trans mount. Very simple task. I was hoping to see a ripped old mount and it actually wasn't torn but was definitely OE. I hope this fixes the "kick" I feel when accelerating hard at fast speeds. If I softly apply power I don't hear it. U-joints feel solid. Transfer case rear bearing have some lateral movement.
For the cables I followed BroncoMan's guidance in this thread here. His measurements are spot on. I purchased this 2 AWG Cable kit ($65) from Amazon and it comes with heavy duty 5/16 and 3/8 lugs but you'll need one more set of each size; thankfully I already have an assortment kit on-hand along with my hydraulic lug crimper. I did not have to modify the lug end that attaches to the alternator. I did though bend the starter lug almost 90 degrees (I suggest buying a 90-degree lug). I did also install a 150-Amp Mega fuse. All of the components i touched were wire brushed and coated with some DeoxIT D100 contact cleaner. The ground bolt on the fender was shot so I drilled a hole near the old one and installed a M8 rivnut. Next project will be to install a 100-Amp continuous duty relay to supply the audio Amp that seems to be hot all the time. I don't like that.
Got our big 7 from Raffi way back for 75.00 delivered.
If you had adequate guage wire running the amplifier; I would venture to say your amp ground is poor or your input trims on the amp are set too high.
Once the ground and power supply are fine; If you cannot crank the volume to 100% without distortion; The trims are too high
My wrecked XJ provides a perfect guinea pig to much about with DIY solutions. Today I put Kiwi black shoe polish (leather dye) on a portion of the seat, half on the vinyl half on the cloth. I only let it set until it was touch dry. I tried cleaning it off with soapy water, windex, lye based oven cleaner, and carb cleaner. The cloth dye held up to all four. The vinyl withstood the water and windex but came loose with the oven cleaner and stood no chance with the carb cleaner. I will say the cracks in the vinyl are still black so I may keep experimenting with it. Too cold to power wash but I am interested to see how it holds up.
I also used the show polish on the door handles and the plastic surround on the antenna. These came out great and did not wipe off with the cleaners. The carb cleaner did loosen it some but not drastically. Color wise it isn't as deep black as I had hoped, but for less than $5 to be able to freshen up the plastic bits it isn't a bad deal.
Got our big 7 from Raffi way back for 75.00 delivered.
If you had adequate guage wire running the amplifier; I would venture to say your amp ground is poor or your input trims on the amp are set too high.
Once the ground and power supply are fine; If you cannot crank the volume to 100% without distortion; The trims are too high
Yeah I need to rewire what the PO installed. The factory audio Amp under the rear seat appears to be bypassed. There is some sort of powered sub laying on the floor in the back. It definitely works; I typically listen to podcasts so it doesn't really get used.
Yeah I need to rewire what the PO installed. The factory audio Amp under the rear seat appears to be bypassed. There is some sort of powered sub laying on the floor in the back. It definitely works; I typically listen to podcasts so it doesn't really get used.
yeah if you are not cranking it.. I would check those trims. most novice installers have no idea and just crank those to the max and don't worry about heat, durability or audio quality until it is too late.
Have put off cleaning the NSS for awhile. Yesterday, it finally bit me. I was out and went to start the Jeep up and nothing. Luckily I had a screwdriver on me... Had to essentially short the starter by using the screwdriver. A few spark showers later and got the thing running to get home lol.
It's very fortunate this Jeep is lifted and the starter is in an easily accessible spot.
Got our big 7 from Raffi way back for 75.00 delivered.
If you had adequate guage wire running the amplifier; I would venture to say your amp ground is poor or your input trims on the amp are set too high.
Once the ground and power supply are fine; If you cannot crank the volume to 100% without distortion; The trims are too high
I think you'll find that most car stereo's will begin clipping at some point when cranked. The best thing to do is test the output (mulit-meter or a proper Oscilloscope) to determine the max volume level of the stereo. If not set properly I wouldn't push the volume over 80-85% of it's max as a precaution - this is actually what I do in my current setup that has not been completely setup.
03-23-2023, 06:02 AM
