What did you do to your Cherokee today?
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User Unknown (06-14-2023)
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Join Date: Oct 2015
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
I just spliced in a connector to get rid of that.
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My jeep is slowly suffering the body to hatch harness issue. 3rd brake light, rear wiper and electric lock have stopped working. I'll have to repair it eventually. I'm just dreading it.
Senior Member
At the time I sold mine only the 3rd brake light had stopped working. Amazing really because nearly every wire was visibly broken. Now my driver's door on the other hand, the power windows/locks only worked when the door was closed, and the speaker worked whenever it wanted to.
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Join Date: May 2021
Location: San Antonio, Texas
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
1st time to ever have 2 XJ’s, or for that matter, 2 of any vehicle in a garage. I just have too much stuff for these residential spaces!
99 5-speed and the 99 Auto
Todd
99 5-speed and the 99 Auto
Todd
CF Veteran
[QUOTE=Ralph77;3699347]Not at all.
I always figured you could do something like that to clean it up but I just went for a LED.
[QUOTE]
I did that for no reason other than I like LED's (for many applications) & it was cheap - which probably explains why it didn't fit (so it went back!)
I always figured you could do something like that to clean it up but I just went for a LED.
[QUOTE]
I did that for no reason other than I like LED's (for many applications) & it was cheap - which probably explains why it didn't fit (so it went back!)
CF Veteran
15mm is a bit of an odd size but is used by Jeep.
Seasoned Member
Finally put to bed an emerging issue with a deep low tone noise when going about 65 and a high pitched squeak that recently began at around 30 mph. I had my first go at rebuilding a cardan CV joint today as I didn't realize the front drive shaft (transfer case to front diff) was that complicated. The PO already had two MOOG 280 U joints and I bought three additional SKF UJ369 U joints (same size as the Moog 280, two more for the rear shaft) along with a UJ617 Cardan CV kit. I used the classic hammer and a Socket trick. Hardest and most time consuming part wad removing the original driven-in race in the CV yoke (that the UJ617 kit replaces). It was an incredible PITA as this was OE. I would consider buying a new yoke piece if you want avoid the trouble. After a quick test drive that I took up to 70 mph, no more noise!
Here is a great video:
Here is a great video:
Last edited by User Unknown; 06-17-2023 at 04:40 PM.
Putting on new calipers, cleaned out the reservoir as best I could. Should I flush out the old fluid before putting the mew calipers on? I figure it would be nest to keep the old nasty fluid out of the new calipers.
Shiny new stuff, flushed out the lines with the old calipers on.
Question on raw metal parts, besides paint is there anything else like rust converters to put on them to keep the rust off?
Those ball joints and wheel bearings are only a year or two old, I know raw metal will rust even here in california but dang.
Question on raw metal parts, besides paint is there anything else like rust converters to put on them to keep the rust off?
Those ball joints and wheel bearings are only a year or two old, I know raw metal will rust even here in california but dang.
Last edited by Kuro89; 06-17-2023 at 04:03 PM.
Seasoned Member
I have gallon cans of Woolwax Black and I use a small paint brush to apply it where necessary. That stuff holds better than the anti-corrosion aerosol spray schmooze.
I want to take my sewer jet nozzle and blow the crap out of my frame rails. It's been insanely dry here for the last month; I really wish I did that weeks ago.
I want to take my sewer jet nozzle and blow the crap out of my frame rails. It's been insanely dry here for the last month; I really wish I did that weeks ago.
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Kuro89 (06-17-2023)
Newbie
Parts and fluid replacement
Replaced catalytic converter, water pump thermostat, serpentine belt and changed out all the fluids,
Noticed coolant leak at the neck of the cap after 50 minute of driving, but engine temperate was good, so I'm not really worried. But I think the over flow tube from radiator to reserve is clogged, because I would think there's space in the reserve tank the radiator overflow would go there.
Jeep needs more work, but happy it's running again.
Noticed coolant leak at the neck of the cap after 50 minute of driving, but engine temperate was good, so I'm not really worried. But I think the over flow tube from radiator to reserve is clogged, because I would think there's space in the reserve tank the radiator overflow would go there.
Jeep needs more work, but happy it's running again.
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User Unknown (06-18-2023)
Seasoned Member
I did the hatch job a couple months ago. Totally worth it. Takes a few hours of your free time. Not hard at all. I criss-crossed mine like what Aaron Vienot shows in the video linked below. Just note that you don't have to pull out all of the trim like he does. Just pull down the hatch one piece assembly and also the interior top trim piece. I only replaced like a 14" section of the harness. If you plan this out, buy a spool of 16 AWG silicone wire. No need to buy a rainbow of colors; just mark the wires or do one at a time using an ohmmeter to check continuity. You might need a few extra inches of washer hose for the criss-cross re route.
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318SixPack (06-29-2023)
CF Veteran
That is the definition of sexy..... especially to a fellow XJ brother/sister... In the great state of Texas
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MrTodd (06-26-2023)