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Not at all.
I always figured you could do something like that to clean it up but I just went for a LED.
Which betting if I look at now, cause it has been on for awhile, has weathered and needs cleaning.
LOL
I went to an LED assembly after the bulb burned out. Found out the bulb didn't burn out but the harness broke. *sigh*
I went to an LED assembly after the bulb burned out. Found out the bulb didn't burn out but the harness broke. *sigh*
The one I bought was one of those cheap Ebay specials where they had the "fake" bulb to put in that short harness.
I just spliced in a connector to get rid of that.
The one I bought was one of those cheap Ebay specials where they had the "fake" bulb to put in that short harness.
I just spliced in a connector to get rid of that.
My jeep is slowly suffering the body to hatch harness issue. 3rd brake light, rear wiper and electric lock have stopped working. I'll have to repair it eventually. I'm just dreading it.
My jeep is slowly suffering the body to hatch harness issue. 3rd brake light, rear wiper and electric lock have stopped working. I'll have to repair it eventually. I'm just dreading it.
At the time I sold mine only the 3rd brake light had stopped working. Amazing really because nearly every wire was visibly broken. Now my driver's door on the other hand, the power windows/locks only worked when the door was closed, and the speaker worked whenever it wanted to.
BTW, the head on my Death Wobble Bolt takes a 15mm socket, not 18, 17, or any other. I tried US Customary and nothing I have fits, but I don't have any 3/5" sockets, so maybe I need more tools.
Now it appears that this is an oddball bolt size too.
Finally put to bed an emerging issue with a deep low tone noise when going about 65 and a high pitched squeak that recently began at around 30 mph. I had my first go at rebuilding a cardan CV joint today as I didn't realize the front drive shaft (transfer case to front diff) was that complicated. The PO already had two MOOG 280 U joints and I bought three additional SKF UJ369 U joints (same size as the Moog 280, two more for the rear shaft) along with a UJ617 Cardan CV kit. I used the classic hammer and a Socket trick. Hardest and most time consuming part wad removing the original driven-in race in the CV yoke (that the UJ617 kit replaces). It was an incredible PITA as this was OE. I would consider buying a new yoke piece if you want avoid the trouble. After a quick test drive that I took up to 70 mph, no more noise!
Here is a great video:
Putting on new calipers, cleaned out the reservoir as best I could. Should I flush out the old fluid before putting the mew calipers on? I figure it would be nest to keep the old nasty fluid out of the new calipers.
I have gallon cans of Woolwax Black and I use a small paint brush to apply it where necessary. That stuff holds better than the anti-corrosion aerosol spray schmooze.
I want to take my sewer jet nozzle and blow the crap out of my frame rails. It's been insanely dry here for the last month; I really wish I did that weeks ago.
Replaced catalytic converter, water pump thermostat, serpentine belt and changed out all the fluids,
Noticed coolant leak at the neck of the cap after 50 minute of driving, but engine temperate was good, so I'm not really worried. But I think the over flow tube from radiator to reserve is clogged, because I would think there's space in the reserve tank the radiator overflow would go there.
Jeep needs more work, but happy it's running again.
My jeep is slowly suffering the body to hatch harness issue. 3rd brake light, rear wiper and electric lock have stopped working. I'll have to repair it eventually. I'm just dreading it.
I replaced that bulb with a res 921 LED; huge difference in response and brightness. Remember that when replacing bulbs with LED you acquire the proper color or it'll look weird. So amber behind and amber lense, red behind red, etc.
I did the hatch job a couple months ago. Totally worth it. Takes a few hours of your free time. Not hard at all. I criss-crossed mine like what Aaron Vienot shows in the video linked below. Just note that you don't have to pull out all of the trim like he does. Just pull down the hatch one piece assembly and also the interior top trim piece. I only replaced like a 14" section of the harness. If you plan this out, buy a spool of 16 AWG silicone wire. No need to buy a rainbow of colors; just mark the wires or do one at a time using an ohmmeter to check continuity. You might need a few extra inches of washer hose for the criss-cross re route.
06-14-2023, 10:26 PM
only the 3rd brake light had stopped working. Amazing really because nearly every wire was visibly broken. Now my driver's door on the other hand, the power windows/locks only worked when the door was closed, and the speaker worked whenever it wanted to.
