When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Nice Job.
Having had my headliner out more times then I care to admit could probably do it with my eyes closed.
Been wracking my brains out trying to figure out what the 2 screws that you have left over might be.
Not really many to begin with IIRC.
Thinking they were more just to secure the visors, 8?, then for the rest combined.
LOL.
Visor screws hold overhead consol in. I have included a photo of said screws. I'm thiinking they are too small to matter much, but will save them incase I am wrong.
AC is next.
New NSS. We now have back-up lights! Those codes are gone. Didn't solve the other problems.
We keep going into limp home mode. A few days ago, we had to splice around a stock connector, down stream O2. Those codes are gone. Now, we get P0500, 700, 705. The 500 is the VSS signal. We're getting 5V on pins 1 and 3. I figured jump across a short to a point closer to the pcm. Nope. PCM is putting 5 V on the VSS sensor signal wire, White/orange. Not good. It does fine with the TCM unplugged. We've been using a garmin for a speedo for a couple of years.
This afternoon, we'll readjust the NSS and look under the console at that mess. Rodent evidence is present. Life on an Ozarks hobby farm. Apparently, my hobby is working on Frankie. She's an old gal with a salvage title, abandoned (and then gifted to us) in our driveway by our daughter. We call her Frankie after Frankenstein. She's ALIVE! And made up from parts from corpses.
Maybe a new PCM is in order. Maybe TCM. We'll keep y'all posted. Any clues or suggestions would appreciated.
In truth not today, but over the weekend but only now managed to collect my thoughts, so - in no particular order:-
broke a tail light on a tree branch or something, getting out of a mud patch on a woodland trail. Surprised it's not happened before but got me thinking about those wire guards: they still around?
finished prepping the shackle box off the parts Jeep, just needs final coat of paint.
tackled the tow hitch bolts on the left, as the flange of the shackle box has to go between it & the frame which I thought would probably be the worst part of the whole job, on the strength of it taking a weekend to remove the hitch from the parts XJ, & 1/2 the bolts sheared off!. Another squirt of penetrant (they'd been soaking for a week) &, before breaking out the gas torch, thought I'd see what the rattle gun would do - & the 1st bolt started to turn almost straight away, & the 2nd, & 3rd, all just unwound. Cleaned the threads, applied grease, put 'em back; so when the time comes, that's not going to be a problem. Did notice that there are 4 but someone before me hadn't been so lucky. Might see what impression my latest drill bits make on the stump but not optimistic 'cos over the years never had any that didn't struggle with, say, angle iron; mostly only fit for sheet metal.
removed each of the U-bolt nuts on one side in turn, wire wheeled the threads, tapped out the nuts, lubed them 'em back & slathered the exposed threads with grease. Why? the plan I hit on was to tackle them & each of the spring bolts as separate jobs. That way, don't have to set so much time aside, eases the pressure & gives some satisfaction in small doses. Then, when I actually come to fit the new springs, I'll have already overcome the problems & should be a simple nut'n'bolt job
doused the spring bolts with penetrant, in anticipation of stage 2 next w/e. Had a 1/2-hearted attempt at loosening the front one but I just know it's going to fight me all the way. Big problem with this job is with the Jeep on the ground there's no room to swing a long breaker bar, so radiused the pinch weld to clear a 1/2-drive extension which (supported on a jackstand) means I can wield a 3 ft bar outside the bodywork - & while standing up.
noticed the bump stop was missing, huh, those extended ones ain't cheap (at least, over here they're not)! Managed to find the old one I thought I had, so swapped that. Odd thing was that previously the metal part has been severely corroded, whereas this one just seems to have become unbonded. Just budget replacement parts I suppose, but not something I have much choice about.
found some rust I didn't (want to) know about - & formulated a plan for tackling that
First time I've actually used my super cheap, (well) used, Dewalt 1/4-drive rattle gun. Can't believe how easy it made the job (even though the trigger doesn't seem to work like I think it should) so couldn't resist having a go at the shocker top mount, & the one bolt that hadn't been replaced in the usual way was no problem at all; of course the shox aren't original - but are probably 10 years old, so was still expecting problems when the time comes.
investigated (well had a quick look at) removing the 2 bumper bracket bolts that go into the (remains of the) shackle box, as need to grind/chisel those nuts off to fit replacement box & don't really want to leave the bumper off for any length of time.
finally, on the train back Sunday evening, think I've worked out how to get my front turn signals to flash alternately. Wha'for? Just 'cos! S'pose I've always liked sequential turn signals. I did float this over Christmas but got no response. Anyway, it'll be a fun project to look forward to when the current serious jobs are behind me.
Last edited by UKXJ; 07-19-2023 at 12:40 PM.
Reason: update
Took the jeep out to run some errands and clear the emissions readiness monitors, 1996 4.0, and I just cannot get the catalyst to clear. About to try jack stands because there isn't a stretch I can drive 35-45mph for two minutes and I'm not about to be mr magoo on the freeway.
It'll pass with the Catalyst not ready but I just want everything green.
So glad mine just sails thru emissions every year with no cat. (mind you, that's tempting fate, as it's due again soon) How or why, I have no idea - just grateful it does.
So back to the rear suspension: didn't get as much done as I'd planned (hoped?) 'cos the rain pretty well kept me in all Saturday. Got a torch on the front boss, then sprayed a load more penetrant thru the hole conveniently located just under where the fixed nut must be. Using the set-up I'd described, which means plenty of room to swing a gert long breaker bar outside the body with Jeep 4-square on the deck. In fact I only needed my extra long (2'?) ratchet to move it maybe a 1/4-turn, then re-tightened undo again, repeat, pretty soon the bolt had turned a full 360* got easier & easier - &, finally, the rattle-gun would turn it (must get myself a serious one, now this one's proved their worth. The bolt through rear spring eye , once I'd managed to get a wrench on the nut came out with very little effort, probably because, apart from the head, it was like new - absolutely amazing! That enable me to winkle the shackle out, as it's not actually attached to anything. Heated up that big nut that's supposed to be welded inside the frame, doused it in penetrant, put it in the vice, put a socket on the bolt, pulled on the wrench - & broke the vice! Time for a re-think, although did waste some time on the bumper bracket bolts -but they're not coming out. so time to pack up & ship out.
Actually I did go out in the rain, or rather I went out before it started & was reminded of the peculiar electrical fault that causes the running & brake lights to interconnect - but only when it's wet. Anyone got any ideas?
I just had to do emissions for my jeep. I noticed one day while out that the engine light had turned itself off. I headed directly to the testing place and passed. The engine light turned back on the next day. *small evap leak if anyone was really curious*
I just passed the point where I dont need to do emissions anymore! When your vehicle is 25 years old you just have to do a safety inspection. They dont even care if the Check Engine Light is on.
I recently went through emissions myself and thinking it was the last time for me too.
And we don't have safety inspections so......
If that is the case I might try to convert my CA Emissions '00 to a Federal Emissions one.
Few years back found a '00 Federal Emissions XJ in the boneyard and pretty sure I grabbed all the parts to do this.
Of course then again too might just be better to convert it to a '99.
LOL.
Trying this out with a homemade bracket as the spare has been relocated to the rack. Velcro did not stay attached on the other side in that cubby area, which is what I prefer.
That is one thing I've been meaning to install and not sure where to install one. Some say close to the driver while you have yours in the back. Both are probably the answer haha.
So I also know they also have categories and need to see which would be best for a car fire.
I just passed the point where I dont need to do emissions anymore! When your vehicle is 25 years old you just have to do a safety inspection. They dont even care if the Check Engine Light is on.
Lucky you. My current XJ is 25 years old this year, which makes it a classic/antique/historic in most jurisdictions with some benefits that go with that status, I've got to wait another 15 years for inspection (including emissions) & tax exemption (& then another 10 years for exemption from the increasing number of low emission zone charges.
That is one thing I've been meaning to install and not sure where to install one. Some say close to the driver while you have yours in the back. Both are probably the answer haha.
So I also know they also have categories and need to see which would be best for a car fire.
I've seen them mounted at the base of the front seat in some vehicles. This mount is meant for excursions and camping accessibility
07-15-2023, 04:06 AM
NSS
