What did you do to your Cherokee today?
10-04-2023, 06:57 PM
Senior Member
Got a pair of rear leaf springs in today and installed the Moog bushings. With decent weather tomorrow, I will put them in and get rid of the "sagging" look! The bushing installation went much faster this time then when I did it on a previous XJ! I remembered the techniques that worked
10-04-2023, 08:32 PM
Seasoned Member
Got a pair of rear leaf springs in today and installed the Moog bushings. With decent weather tomorrow, I will put them in and get rid of the "sagging" look! The bushing installation went much faster this time then when I did it on a previous XJ! I remembered the techniques that worked
10-04-2023, 11:02 PM
Senior Member
Freeze the bushings, I got those in Monday and put them in the freezer until they were installed today. I used a 4 pound hammer, wood blocks and a couple of large screwdrivers that you drive into the "eye" of the springs to make the place where the bushings go just a tad larger. Then with the spring being supported on wooden blocks use another piece of 2x4 and the hammer to drive the bushings in. If you find the bushings still a little tight, just drive the screwdriver (wedge) a little deeper to open the eyes up more. They will go in without any mashed fingers if you are careful! I have already prepared the XJ for the installation by spraying the bolts with PB Blaster. I don't think they will pose a problem for the two impacts I use, so that should not be a problem.
A lot of people.......well some people, might be tempted to press the bushings in and that is fine, but it still helps to open up the eyes a tad and the springs are awkward on a press. When you wriggle out the wedge (screwdriver) after the bushing is installed, you will hear the "eye" as it slams down on the bushing!!
A lot of people.......well some people, might be tempted to press the bushings in and that is fine, but it still helps to open up the eyes a tad and the springs are awkward on a press. When you wriggle out the wedge (screwdriver) after the bushing is installed, you will hear the "eye" as it slams down on the bushing!!
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JeepWoman (10-07-2023)
10-06-2023, 12:48 PM
Seasoned Member
Freeze the bushings, I got those in Monday and put them in the freezer until they were installed today. I used a 4 pound hammer, wood blocks and a couple of large screwdrivers that you drive into the "eye" of the springs to make the place where the bushings go just a tad larger. Then with the spring being supported on wooden blocks use another piece of 2x4 and the hammer to drive the bushings in. If you find the bushings still a little tight, just drive the screwdriver (wedge) a little deeper to open the eyes up more. They will go in without any mashed fingers if you are careful! I have already prepared the XJ for the installation by spraying the bolts with PB Blaster. I don't think they will pose a problem for the two impacts I use, so that should not be a problem.
A lot of people.......well some people, might be tempted to press the bushings in and that is fine, but it still helps to open up the eyes a tad and the springs are awkward on a press. When you wriggle out the wedge (screwdriver) after the bushing is installed, you will hear the "eye" as it slams down on the bushing!!
A lot of people.......well some people, might be tempted to press the bushings in and that is fine, but it still helps to open up the eyes a tad and the springs are awkward on a press. When you wriggle out the wedge (screwdriver) after the bushing is installed, you will hear the "eye" as it slams down on the bushing!!
10-06-2023, 02:03 PM
Senior Member
I was remiss in not mentioning the use of a torch (propane will do) to heat the bolts up that go through the frame. The one most forward and the one at the top of the shackle in the rear. They play a lot nicer when you heat the heads up on the bolts to help the locktite on the threads loosen up! I used a 21mm socket on the spring bolts, 18mm on the shock and the U-bolt nuts. I also try to have a jack to back up the jack stand on the side I am working on. Just in case, yanno!
In general, I jack the XJ up as high as I am comfortable, put jack stands under the frame rails in front of the rear tires. Then move the jack to the axle and raise it high enough to remove the tire from the side I am working on. Heat the front bolt and break it loose, heat the back shackle bolt and break it loose.
I then remove the shock from the lower bolt stud, remove the U-bolt nuts and then let the jack down. You may encourage the axle to go down with your foot to allow the spring to clear the mounts and flip it sideways to get it out. Relocate the shackle from old spring to new, slide it in sideways and flip upright to guide
the bushing "eyes" into the correct position. You will have to juggle it around a little to get the bolts to line up. Get those bolts started and run them in but not torque tight, then put your U-bolts along with the upper plate on along with rear torsion bar mount and tighten them tight but not torque tight. Remount the shock on its lower stud and tighten down. Then all you have to do is torque the bolts which should be with the weight of the vehicle on the springs. I usually tighten the U-bolts down to about 55 pounds then install the tires and set the XJ on its own weight before tackling the spring bolts, the bolts that go through the eyes take 115 pounds and the shackle bolt takes 80 pounds. I use red locktite on the spring bolt threads as well. I should be finished with mine today. I picked up the china flu earlier in the week and seem to be over it but try and not overdo anything for the time being
Taking a timeout on the last spring install, got it all laying there waiting on me but I have all day LOL
In general, I jack the XJ up as high as I am comfortable, put jack stands under the frame rails in front of the rear tires. Then move the jack to the axle and raise it high enough to remove the tire from the side I am working on. Heat the front bolt and break it loose, heat the back shackle bolt and break it loose.
I then remove the shock from the lower bolt stud, remove the U-bolt nuts and then let the jack down. You may encourage the axle to go down with your foot to allow the spring to clear the mounts and flip it sideways to get it out. Relocate the shackle from old spring to new, slide it in sideways and flip upright to guide
the bushing "eyes" into the correct position. You will have to juggle it around a little to get the bolts to line up. Get those bolts started and run them in but not torque tight, then put your U-bolts along with the upper plate on along with rear torsion bar mount and tighten them tight but not torque tight. Remount the shock on its lower stud and tighten down. Then all you have to do is torque the bolts which should be with the weight of the vehicle on the springs. I usually tighten the U-bolts down to about 55 pounds then install the tires and set the XJ on its own weight before tackling the spring bolts, the bolts that go through the eyes take 115 pounds and the shackle bolt takes 80 pounds. I use red locktite on the spring bolt threads as well. I should be finished with mine today. I picked up the china flu earlier in the week and seem to be over it but try and not overdo anything for the time being
Taking a timeout on the last spring install, got it all laying there waiting on me but I have all day LOL
Last edited by Sig220; 10-06-2023 at 02:05 PM.
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JeepWoman (10-07-2023)
10-08-2023, 09:27 PM
Newbie
Been a rough couple of weeks for the Jeep. Water pump failed, with the pulley grinding into the pump housing enough to leak coolant. Free tow and $830 + 3 days for a shop to replace the water pump, belt and coolant.
Then the brake warning light comes on because the passenger side drum brake cylinder failed. Fortunately, it made it home, but it was down a week and a half waiting for parts and assistance. Complete rear axle brake replacement for 3hrs work, $275 in parts/fluids and a case of beer.
I think they were the original shoes and drums on a 2001 xj with 196,000 mi. There was a center gap in the old brake pad causing a ridge to form on the drum surface. Lucky they even worked and unsurprising the wheel cylinder blew out.
Then the brake warning light comes on because the passenger side drum brake cylinder failed. Fortunately, it made it home, but it was down a week and a half waiting for parts and assistance. Complete rear axle brake replacement for 3hrs work, $275 in parts/fluids and a case of beer.
I think they were the original shoes and drums on a 2001 xj with 196,000 mi. There was a center gap in the old brake pad causing a ridge to form on the drum surface. Lucky they even worked and unsurprising the wheel cylinder blew out.
Last edited by dubydubydo; 10-08-2023 at 09:41 PM.
10-09-2023, 03:38 PM
CF Veteran
Not actually today, but over the weekend:-
Saturday - weird turn signal issue, seemed they didn't work at all, at least on the left. Anyway, a couple of mins later I'm outside the front door trying to identify the problem. Whichever way I pushed the lever, no lights (at least on the dash) but a noise like a fan from where I assume the relay is. Tried the "flick-flash" (sorry, dunno what you guys call that function) that worked, & so did the regular turn signals immediately after. I hate self-curing faults but, for the moment, just seems like a temporary glitch.
Sunday - finally got rid of the ziptie that's been holding the right rear shock in place for about a year, drilled out & tapped the bottom mount for an M8 bolt which, with a large washer will do for the moment. Plan is to open it up to fit an M12 bolt but my drill bits that size aren't up to the job.
Saturday - weird turn signal issue, seemed they didn't work at all, at least on the left. Anyway, a couple of mins later I'm outside the front door trying to identify the problem. Whichever way I pushed the lever, no lights (at least on the dash) but a noise like a fan from where I assume the relay is. Tried the "flick-flash" (sorry, dunno what you guys call that function) that worked, & so did the regular turn signals immediately after. I hate self-curing faults but, for the moment, just seems like a temporary glitch.
Sunday - finally got rid of the ziptie that's been holding the right rear shock in place for about a year, drilled out & tapped the bottom mount for an M8 bolt which, with a large washer will do for the moment. Plan is to open it up to fit an M12 bolt but my drill bits that size aren't up to the job.
Last edited by UKXJ; 10-11-2023 at 02:40 PM.
10-11-2023, 05:58 AM
Intermittent signal fault
Not actually today, but over the weekend:-
Saturday - weird turn signal issue, seemed they didn't work at all, at least on the left. Anyway, a couple of mins later I'm outside the front door trying to identify the problem. Whichever way I pushed the ever, no lights (at least on the dash) but a noise like a fan from where I assume the relay is. Tried the "flick-flash" (sorry, dunno what you guys call that function) that worked, & so did the regular turn signals immediately after. I hate self-curing faults but, for the moment, just seems like a temporary glitch.
Sunday - finally got rid of the ziptie that's been holding the right rear shock in place for about a year, drilled out & tapped the bottom mount for an M8 bolt which, with a large washer will do for the moment. Plan is to open it up to fit an M12 bolt but my drill bits that size aren't up to the job.
Saturday - weird turn signal issue, seemed they didn't work at all, at least on the left. Anyway, a couple of mins later I'm outside the front door trying to identify the problem. Whichever way I pushed the ever, no lights (at least on the dash) but a noise like a fan from where I assume the relay is. Tried the "flick-flash" (sorry, dunno what you guys call that function) that worked, & so did the regular turn signals immediately after. I hate self-curing faults but, for the moment, just seems like a temporary glitch.
Sunday - finally got rid of the ziptie that's been holding the right rear shock in place for about a year, drilled out & tapped the bottom mount for an M8 bolt which, with a large washer will do for the moment. Plan is to open it up to fit an M12 bolt but my drill bits that size aren't up to the job.
10-11-2023, 02:39 PM
CF Veteran
I don't know, 'cos it only happened that once on the road & 1st time after I was parked up, but will be monitoring closely on Saturday when its next in use. However the strange noise, more than the not working makes me suspect the relay. Don't understand why it should affect the brake lights, as both our vehicles have separate rear turn signals & brake lights but will make a point of looking out for that.