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Little tip remove the fill plug first.
Oh and go buy the Valvoline VV818.
Fits on a quart of tranny fluid, at least the Napa 75200 I use (Dex/Merc III), and just makes life easier.
Works on the Valvoline VV975 gear oil I use too.
Why I have 2.
LOL.
Always remove fill plug 1st (or, at least make sure you'll be able to when you need to) trans, TC, even diffs iff they have both fill & spill.
Never had a problem with squeezy packs, although round ones are better than those with corners. Did have to resort to an electric pump for the rear diff on my WJ - because it didn't occur to me that if I put jackstands under the "frame" & lowered the axle, the filler became visible.
I wish there was a simple and practical electric pump, similar in size of the pump-style units that fit into the quart containers that also have a fleixble hose with a quality nozzle. Im not a fan of the pressure units as they are bulky and tip over etc. The hand pump units get me frustrated as they arent easy to use, the vinyl hose seems like it's solid plastic and hard to manipulate and it always pops out of the nozzle end. I refilled my WK2's front diff last week and almost went into a rage when the "bag" style tip just couldn't fit into the fill hole. Maybe I'll invent one... Considering the cumulative frustration doing these jobs creates, I would spend a pretty penny on a end-all, be-all solution.
Finished the installation of the muffler. My old exhaust was hodge-podge and everything was welded. I cut out the old muffler and was left with a Cat exit that was 2.5" ID and rear exit pipe that is 2.0" ID. The muffler has 2.25" ID inlet and outlet. I used a 2.5" ID pipe that slid into the cat and over the inlet to the muffler. I used a standalone adapter to connect the muffler to the rear outlet pipe. Everything is snug and fits perfectly. Herein lies the problem. I need 2-3/8" claps (60mm) to fit over the tubes. Talk about being unobtanium. I had to special order them from a place in Ohio. Not expensive though (like $15 shipped for two). My interim and possibly permanent solution was to go to the Homeless Despot and buy two fence post clamps that were made for 2-3/8 fence post tubes! They actually fit perfectly and definitely tightened the pipes together.
Little tip remove the fill plug first.
Oh and go buy the Valvoline VV818.
Fits on a quart of tranny fluid, at least the Napa 75200 I use (Dex/Merc III), and just makes life easier.
Works on the Valvoline VV975 gear oil I use too.
Why I have 2.
LOL.
Thats the exact pump I've got, i think I just need the right size socket and to stop being lazy.
Finished the installation of the muffler. My old exhaust was hodge-podge and everything was welded. I cut out the old muffler and was left with a Cat exit that was 2.5" ID and rear exit pipe that is 2.0" ID. The muffler has 2.25" ID inlet and outlet. I used a 2.5" ID pipe that slid into the cat and over the inlet to the muffler. I used a standalone adapter to connect the muffler to the rear outlet pipe. Everything is snug and fits perfectly. Herein lies the problem. I need 2-3/8" claps (60mm) to fit over the tubes. Talk about being unobtanium. I had to special order them from a place in Ohio. Not expensive though (like $15 shipped for two). My interim and possibly permanent solution was to go to the Homeless Despot and buy two fence post clamps that were made for 2-3/8 fence post tubes! They actually fit perfectly and definitely tightened the pipes together.
Why is exhaust such a pain to deal with, after I've done it on my own vehicles I understood why my father fixed an exhaust leak with a soup can.
One day I dream of redoing my exhaust front to rear with vband clamps.
Thats the exact pump I've got, i think I just need the right size socket and to stop being lazy.
In my '00 it is some hex head thing.
Years ago, with my '96, got lucky when I needed one.
Asked my friend if he had one to borrow, he went and looked, had like 4, and gave me one.
1/2" drive too which is nice.
Thats the exact pump I've got, i think I just need the right size socket and to stop being lazy.
It is a 10mm hex "H10" for the NP231 at least. I suggest to always use some Permatex High Temp Thread Sealant for any fluid plug; especially the drain plugs. A little goes a long way.
It is a 10mm hex "H10" for the NP231 at least. I suggest to always use some Permatex High Temp Thread Sealant for any fluid plug; especially the drain plugs. A little goes a long way.
My '96 takes a 30mm socket, kind of forgot about the gaskets but mine looked ok so I kind of just yolo'd. I'll keep an eye out for drips and worst case scenario is I cleany t case and a pan to reuse the fluid(I'll probably just grab my other fresh quart) and do it right.
Got it done before noon, saw two guys stealing a bin of something as I was heading into HD to get a 30mm socket.
We got hammered by a snow storm yesterday so I took the time to refinish a $15 leather steering wheel I harvested from U-Pull U-Pay a few weeks ago. I used the Furniture Clinic Steering Wheel Repair Kit I bought from Amazon (search for B07H95DMJJ) for $30. I was sold after watching their instructional YouTube video and reading reviews. This steering wheel was worn but wasn't destroyed. I followed the instructions and it turned out great. Took the time today to install it; nothing beats a nice leather steering wheel.
Replaced the gaskets for the washer pumps due to a serious leak. I'm glad it wasn't cracked. I did replace one pump that has the spade connector but not the one that has the Delphi-style sealed connector as I ordered two of the same pumps. Apparently they are different pumps for this 1997.
My battery tray has the classic broken tab so I opted to install a $3 Harbor Fright tie down strap as an interim until I go back to the U-Pull U-Pay to harvest one from a donor. I just got a message that the Aurora CO location just took delivery of a PERFECT looking 1999...so sad...
$15 Leather Steering Wheel
Removing the Vinyl wheel
Looks/feels like brand new.
I wish Jeep though of installing a plastic splash shield to protect these better.
Works for now until I install the mil-spec battery terminals.
Finally installed the new front sway bar end links and bushings that have been on the shelf for a couple of years, and in typical Jeep fashion the bushing clamps were a huge pain to get back on. Idk if I ordered the wrong size or what but it took a lot of prying and pushing to get the bolt holes lined up.
02-02-2024, 12:26 AM
