SimpleDad

The first radiator had a pinhole leak once it pressurized at temp.

Summer being so short I gambled on another from Autozone. Radiator number two works great once I put teflon on the trans cooler adapter.

Tonight's task arrived. A new Adams front drive shaft. When I installed the SYE I found out the front needed new u-joints and used that as an excuse to justify a whole new shaft (not knowing I was going to have to buy a rad). I really hate doing u-joints so doing three in a row at one time I'd probably end up lighting the XJ on fire. Plus since the ex got all my tools I'm not setup great to do it.

TeXJ

Went offroading this weekend and noticed the jeep kind of hesitate when starting. Thought maybe the battery was a little low and idling it would recharge the battery.

started it and took off with the group. We all stopped about 9 mins later and I turned the jeep off and then it wouldn't start again.

No clicking, just like it was about to start and then just die like a droid that ran out of juice(battery).

Tried to jump start it, nothing. Connected the jumper cables to the positive post on the starter, still nothing. Then towed it to my friend's diesel truck and it still wouldn't start. Dragged it onto the trailer and brought it home. Today I was finally able to go and get a batter. The guy at Oreily's didn't seem to know what he was doing but did put the old batter on the tester and it showed it was bad but didn't have a print out...so not sure if he did it right or not as the other associate there was kind of perplexed there was no readout with the results. So we hooked it to their portable tester and it showed bad. When I put an electric meter on it it showed 7 volts. When Oreilys tested after having been on their charger for almost 2hrs it still showed bad...

So anyways, spent way too much on a battery and took it home. Once home today, I put in the new battery and it does the same thing. Like it goes to start and then just falls on it's face.

Next up, I'm gonna install my upgraded battery cables I bought like 2 years ago and see if that fixes it. My battery cables look like junk. So I'm hoping this is the issue.

JeepWoman

Sounds like the normal CPS headache too. Just did one over the weekend on a 01 GC.

Veeb0rg

I broke down and bought a vacuum pump on saturday and pulled the AC system down in the jeep and charged it properly. So far its held in there but I know there's a leak and those just don't magically fix themselves. I plan on replacing everything but the Evap and compressor. If the leak is in the evap then I'll just enjoy the window down cause I ain't pullin the dash.

SimpleDad

Veeb0rg I'm afraid I'm going to have to pull my dash to get some heat for winter. Is it really that bad?

Switched out my speedo. Did the math wrong, but at least now it over shoots the speed instead of under so I won't get a ticket. Not sure it's worth the $$$ to try a different gear ratio or if there is a perfect ratio for 31.7s (235/85R16).

Changed the rear diff fluid. It was nasty. I know my mom had it changed at one point so not sure how it got so bad. Put in a lubelocker to make it easier (where I go fishing you have to cross a couple streams so frequent changes are in the XJs future). I'm not sure what to do about unit bears/bearing hubs since you can't just repack them after a water crossing (telling how old school I am here). Are people crossing rivers just swapping them out yearly? That's kinda spendy.

Finally put in the relay light harness and Hella H4 lights that had been sitting on the shelf waiting. Went for a quick drive. Wow, I can see.

Veeb0rg

Its just not worth the effort for me.

UKXJ

)n my 1st car, even though the heater was in plain sight under the front parcel shelf, when it failed, usually because the Bakelite impellor had self-destructed, you had to take the engine out to reach the nuts that eld it in place. Always thought it was stupid but compared with removing the dash from an XJ (or, indeed, anything built in the last 50 years) it was a doddle. Dunno what I'd do if I lived somewhere it was really cold for more than a month or so, but if the heater packed up on my XJ I probably wouldn't use it during the worst of the Winter. I remember when I had a brief flirtation with a WJ (yup, I believed all the hype about them being the next best thing) having spent far more on the AC than I hoped it would cost all in in the 1st 12 months only to discover the blend doors had failed was a contributory factor to weighing it in for scrap. Now I don't begrudge the XJ the cost of any parts, what's behind the dash has always been, & will remain, a mystery - to the extend that my worst fear is an important bulb in the dash panel failing, because professional repairs cannot be economically viable, even with their current vastly over-inflated values.

TeXJ

It does start to try and turn over but then like the power fades. Was thinking the CPS would keep it from even trying to start, no?

User Unknown

Next time you empty the AC system, flush the lines with solvent (AC flush kits are free rentals at AutoZone or Oreillys; just buy your own solvent) and also replace the Receiver/Dryer. The AC lines are also cheap so they'll make it easier to just flush the condenser and evaporator. Don't forget to add three proper AC oil after flushing the system.

Kuro89

A nitrogen regulator and 30cuft bottle are worth the investment imo. 300psi of nitrogen and some soap bubbles will find em quick, or a good ear of the leak is bad enough.
Valve cores > hoses/fittings > coils are most likely to leak in that order.

BadBloodXJ

Installed K Suspension's 4 port injectors. Solved my slow crank start up issue, slight performance boost as well.

Veeb0rg

for a weekend warrior in my driveway I think this is probably a step to far for me. One of the reasons I plan on changing everything is the valve cores are stuck in the current line set and all the underhood parts aren't that expensive (besides compressor)

JeepWoman

Spent yesterday trouble shooting my wiper headache. When I turn the int on it goes normal speed, with no stopping. When I turn them on low, they really slow down and fight to even work. Turn on high they are normal speed. Pulled the inter apart, don't see anything burned. Before I go throwing money at it, seems like more research needed. Hate letting it sit on rainy days. Don't trust the wipers.

Kella228

My 2001 Grand Cherokee Laredo with the 4.0 has been running so stupid!!! P0303 and p0203 codes. It'll run like crap, then after driving for a bit and turning it off, then back on after anywhere from 2-15 minutes It'll start and run just fine! However, as we're trying to find and fix whatever the problem(s) may be. We changed all the injector wire plugs to no avail. Then we thought it was fixed after installing a new heat shield, and new TPS because it broke when changing the manifold heat shield, and changes the injector o-rings. It was perfect for 2 days, then threw codes for o2 sensor s1b1. Changed that and it was good for a couple days again. Now its back to those p0203 and p0303 codes, but not only that, the RPMs will fluctuate on its own, and most times when we start it the RPMS go as high as 3000 for a second or 2 before they come down to normal range. Then it kind of jumps around but not more than 200-300 usually, but sometomes It'll fluctuate 500 or more. It always starts right up. It used to be intermittent but it's not quite so intermittent. It used to only be rough when you'd start it. But now if it starts with no issues it will eventually start back to misfiring and shuddering. It's making me sooooo mad! We plan on checking the engine harness wires for ground issues (its been a hot summer and not many cool enough days, and my mechanic dad is disabled), maybe cleaning the throttle body, cleaning the IAC, and maybe switch injector 3 to see if the code follows. Is there anything we may be missing? Anyone else get this?! Please helpppp!!!!

SimpleDad

Started getting everything ready to replace my axle u joints, ball joints, unit/hub bearings, and extended brake lines/new calipers. Decided to watch a couple of Youtube videos in case there's any gotchas/tips/tricks. Youtube convinced me to get some cheepie Amazon Jeep specific ball joint adapters to save on headaches so I'm pushing the u joints/ball joints off until next weekend and just doing the brakes (probably smarter to do less at once anyways). Gives my time to paint the new knuckles I got to throw on (since the old ones were coming off for the ball joints anyways). I'm hoping new knuckles won't require an alignment since I just got that done after putting the lift on/replacing tie rods and drag link.