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What the flip is going on here???

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Old 01-06-2022, 07:52 AM
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When I see something like this.... not only is it completely outrageous as one of these typically would sell for 20-30 dollars max..... but with everything else going on in the world right now and in this very country... it also makes me think... is there a deeper meaning that we need to read between the lines for.... because this is not a good sign on every level if you ask me.
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Old 01-06-2022, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by RocketMouse

When I see something like this.... not only is it completely outrageous as one of these typically would sell for 20-30 dollars max..... but with everything else going on in the world right now and in this very country... it also makes me think... is there a deeper meaning that we need to read between the lines for.... because this is not a good sign on every level if you ask me.
Any chance that is for 3?
Cause gallons of any Shell oil come 3 to a case.
Old 01-06-2022, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Ralph77
Any chance that is for 3?
Cause gallons of any Shell oil come 3 to a case.
I was hoping so...but nope...that is for just 1 gallon. Even if it were for 3, that would be over priced.
Old 01-06-2022, 10:54 AM
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So at this point.. I'm wondering if I should just switch to a decent 10W-30 synthetic that has a decent detergent package and just add some ZDDP and call it a day.
As I might not have a choice if I can't get my mitts on what I normally use.

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Old 01-06-2022, 11:02 AM
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I saw on the Duramax forum that Rotafella is unabke to source an additive for their oil which is why none is available. Not sure why this does not affect the other manufacturers
Old 01-06-2022, 11:08 AM
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I dont know if this is true, but i heard Shell, and others, have been having issues getting the additives they use in thier oils.

Old 01-06-2022, 11:23 AM
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With everything going on I just noticed that the conventional Napa oil I use is $13 for the 5 quart container and $2.59 for a quart this month.
Thinking that is not a bad price.
It is rebranded Valvoline so...... LOL.
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Old 01-06-2022, 11:32 AM
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One would think that they would be able to source the additive just like others that make ZDDP specifically... unless it's not that and it's an ingredient in their detergent package for their product? Who knows.
but they're losing big $$$ by not having it. I haven't cracked the block, taken the head off or anything...but last time I did a valve cover gasket change the top end looked pretty clean and not all full of sludge. And that's been the only oil I've ran for the past 5 years the XJ's been part of the family. So I figure it must be doing something right in there....but now that I'm in southern TX... where it's rare to get down below 32... maybe a handful of days during the winter...that I'll just have to search for another brand that has good reviews for their detergent package and do the switch...and just add the zddp in myself. Easy enough to do. I'm sayin' not just because the T6 is not obtainable right now... but because maybe I shouldn't be running that thin of an oil in these temps as there's no real risk of the oil being so cold that it wouldn't flow at the right viscosity on initial startup.

Last edited by RocketMouse; 01-06-2022 at 11:36 AM.
Old 01-06-2022, 06:04 PM
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RocketMouse - if you want a zinc additive, look up Comp Cams # 159. Its a break in oil additive that is loaded with zinc. I would only use half a bottle of it per oil change. The oil reports I have run on it would agree. If not, just look into actual racing oils like Lucas or Joe Gibbs. They come loaded already.
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Old 01-07-2022, 01:31 AM
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I run 10w40 in most of mine in AZ, all old so they don't do the modern -20w0 silliness. I expect you would want to run similar in South TX.
Old 01-07-2022, 10:17 AM
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I've heard the following but trying to find valid proof to one side or the other on this.....
Statement - "If you switch to a full synthetic oil, you can't switch back to conventional oil without the risk of causing seals to leak".

Now I have heard that synthetics generally lubricate seals and such better than conventional oils... but has anyone ever had an issue going back to conventional? or should I stick with a full synthetic from this point forward because I already made that switch.

Part 2: is it wise to run a synthetic in our old 4.0s given that it's a much older engine design?

Ive tried to search the interwebs...but I haven't found a definitive reliable source that says a definite yes or no to this. So if anyone can point me in the right direction that would be awesome!
Old 01-07-2022, 03:30 PM
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I miss the days when we had Salad on here to respond.... who knows how to get ahold of him and convince him to come back to the forum? Just some stellar write-ups on topics just like this.
Old 01-07-2022, 03:44 PM
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I think your engine has had enough zinc over it's life and most importantly during the original cam break-in.

Have you looked at Tractor Supply's oil? I use it all the time.
Old 01-07-2022, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
I think your engine has had enough zinc over it's life and most importantly during the original cam break-in.

Have you looked at Tractor Supply's oil? I use it all the time.
True.... wish I had been with my XJ from day one..but sadly it had one previous owner for the first 17 of it's 23 life... and I doubt they did anything but just change the oil with whatever was available.

I haven't tried Tractor Supply... will have to check and see if there's one in my neck of the woods. There was one back when I lived in Flagstaff, AZ... but that was couple years ago now.
I know Tractor Supply is the name of the company... is their oil branded the same way?
Old 01-07-2022, 03:54 PM
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I think it's called "traveler". Quit worrying about the zinc.


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