What makes the jk d30's stronger?
#16
Serious, I have not used it or know anyone who used it. But I have twisted shafts before right where the almost alloy pieces go.
Seemed like a good idea?
Last edited by holycaveman; 08-16-2013 at 07:17 PM.
#17
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If and when you do break a joint. You will not be able to change it on the trail. It's a decent idea, but not something I would ever recommend. Junk wasn't the right word, they do what they advertise
Last edited by N20jeep; 08-16-2013 at 08:23 PM.
#18
ah... Well that is something to consider. And you can't just change u-joints like before. You would have to cut the caps off first. Which would make it a PITA.
Thanks
#20
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You could apply the same logic to RCV's and save even more money. They'd never break cuz most people will be working weekends to pay for them instead of wheeling. For those of us on limited budgets and mild builds, the almost alloys probably are just fine.
#22
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Isnt helping with the problem of the ears increasing the strength of them? $600 is pretty expensive insurance compared to $30 to prevent the caps from walking and taking out the BJ's in the middle of no where. Also, the stock axles have more elasticity which will transmit less shock to the R&P than 4340. I'd rather have an axle snap before the R&P grenades on my budget. I'm pretty sure 1541H rear axles use that particular alloy to prevent shock to the gears as well as flex rather than snap on hard landings.
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The JK 30's aren't anything to shout about. One of my wheeling buddies snapped his JKu's 30 at Rausch. He now runs a 44 up front.
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